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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My brother delivered the M94 he picked up for me. I'm having a heck of a time removing the stock since I can't get the rear action screw to budge. Though not easily seen in the pics, the stock has sections with a very nice tiger stripe pattern. The varnish was applied over many of the metal parts as well as the leather buckle and the stock disk. Fortunately it has been there for decades and is easily removed with a fingernail. So far, all the numbers match, including the handguard...except for the bolt. It is 2 digits away from the receiver number. The bore is beautiful and I think the stock will clean up nicely. Repro nose cap enroute from Swede.

Serial number purposely altered in the photos.








 

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Nice 94 Carbine. If you are uncertain on how to remove that old finish, it might be better to find someone who refinishes old furniture and have them remove the old stuff. You could strip it down first so that only the stock is taken to the refinisher. Then either have him refinish it with BLO or you can do it yourself.

You might try a bit of penetrating oil on the rear screw. Take a screwdriver that fits the rear screw well, and put it in the rear screw slot. Then give it a good tap with a hammer, to loosen the threads of any crap in them. Next, take some penetrating oil, and dipping a q-tip in it, apply the oil SPARINGLY on the end of the screw that you can see from the top at the tang. Leave it for about 12 hours and repeat the penetrating oil on the screw end. Do this a couple of times.

You can buy hex screwdriver bits about 4 inches long. Use a socket that will fit the hex bit, (about a 5/16 socket) and a ratchet wrench handle on it. Have someone hold the rifle upside down on a table, and you can use the well fitting screwdriver bit and socket/ratchet handle to turn the screw slightly. The reason for the ratchet wrench is that you might have to move the screw back and forth a bit each time to loosen it up, and each time you will be able to turn it a bit more, and finally get it out.

I would advise you to have someone holding the rifle rather than clamping it down, which could put a dent in the wood. While you could use a bent screw driver to remove the screw, it is better to use the above method as you have more control and can use two hands on the socket wrench, putting a bit of downward pressure on the bit to keep it in place.

An alternative method of removing really tough screws is to clamp the piece in a drill press vise, and put the hex bit in the drill press. you can use downward pressure to keep the bit onto the screw and turn the drill press spindle by hand by pulling on the drive belt. Again two people are best, and unplug the drill press first. In both cases, you might have to file the screwdriver hex bit so that it fits the screw head well.

Most American screwdrivers are the "keystone" type where they are tapered inwards at the bottom. European screws tend to have parallel sides in the screw slot, so the American keystone screwdrivers contact only the top of the screw and has a bit of a gap at the bottom, thus tending to slip out of a screw head more.

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Looks like that varnish is ready to pop off ? Try a scotch-bright pad or a kitchen sponge with scotch bright on one side , dipped denatured alcohol or mineral spirits . Should not be a problem . Let it dry completely before rubbing BLO on the wood .

I agree with Buffdog , the stuck screw is a job for 4 hands . Best to own a set of Gunsmith screwdriver bits , as they are hollow ground on the sides so they won't slip in the slot . You still need to keep downward pressure on the bit , or it will slip out despite having straight sides . You can get these sets from many places such as Brownells , MidwayUSA , your local gun shop . Look for good quality brand names . Mine are " Chapman " . Don't recall any others off hand . Avoid cheap stuff on EBAY or you will ruin your screw slots . I suspect EBAY has some quality sets for sale as well if you are economy shopping . My set has blade bits , Philips bits & Allen bits . Some others may have torque bits , but not sure any guns use them ???? Better safe than sorry .
 

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Some scope rings use torx bits. I have a Wheeler set from Midway. Good bits for short money.
All I can say is, take your time with the screw. It will move.
Appears the nose cap is missing. Is the stock cut for the bayo mount?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Some scope rings use torx bits. I have a Wheeler set from Midway. Good bits for short money.
All I can say is, take your time with the screw. It will move.
Appears the nose cap is missing. Is the stock cut for the bayo mount?
It isn't cut for the bayo mount and I have a repro nose cap on the way from Swede. I was able to remove the stock and sure enough, it matches the receiver. Thus far, I've been able to remove 90% of the varnish using nothing more than my fingernails.

It has a very nice tiger stripe pattern emerging:


 

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That's a lot more complete than the bubba'd one I found. Nice stock.
 

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Cartouche

Yes , that is the cartouche on the wrist of the stock . Looks like a " Crown/O " for the Army work shop at Östersund . The same mark should be on your barrel shank near the serial number .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's a progress photo. I ran two BLO scrubs on the stock (4oz BLO, 4oz turpentine, 4oz denatured alcohol, 1oz ammonia). The stock has some stains where cleaning solvents have dripped out the rear of the receiver and down the butt. I didn't want to try to scrub all that away since I thought that told the story of the carbine. After the scrubs, I ran 4 applications of 50/50 BLO and turpentine with a day between to dry. I then finished up with 3 applications of 80\20 BLO and turpentine. I think I'll leave it at that. I didn't stain the stock but just applied the BLO over what was already there. I don't think it has ever been sanded. More to come later.

 
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