Charlie,
I haven't been to Peleliu as many times as Eric, but have been there quite a bit. It' been about five years since I was there last, but I doubt if anything has changed that much.
There are a couple places where one can see visible remains of the battle, but most has been covered up by dense jungle growth. Some areas are purposely kept clear for tourists, etc.
Most of the roads were coral "paved" with a few stretches of asphalt. There was construction of a new road around where the radio tower is, but I'm not sure how far down the island it was going.
There is a small town with a couple "hotels" and basic food/Budweiser shops.
The last time I was in Peleliu, I was scuba diving off a small live-aboard (four divers) boat. We spent a week around Peleliu and Anguar (lots of sharks!). A couple times we went ashore to visit some battle areas (with the help of one of Eric's maps that he made for me) The time before, I took a local "ferry" to the isand from Koror, then stayed in a small bungelo style hotel. I've flown there on a smal plane from Koror, and have also taken a friend's fishing boat there. It's not hard to access the island in other words. I as living in Japan and Korea at the time of most of my visits, including my first one back in 1984, so it wasn't expensive or time consuming. From here though, it is both.
John in Charlotte, NC