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Kryptonite member
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As I've noted before, the first "Korean Conversion" I examined was a receiver out of a parts box at a Tusa show in the 80s. It had the "U S Cal 30" stamped on he side and had a green parkerzed (sp.) finish, About 40-50% (CRS) of the green had flacked off exposing the blue underneath.

Don't remember handling a complete green parkerized "conversion," all have been dull black. With that behind us, what is the difference,, chemically (Don?) in the green and black finishes. My good friend, the Tennessee scum bag, uses a black finish on his creations.

And how would you remove a parkerized finish? I recently examined a KM with the green finish, my thought was possibly someone in the arsenal doing the conversions parkerized his souvenir KM at shift's end. (That's my story and I'm sticking to it!)

I guess it's possible that the U.S. military switched from green to black because of a cost savings ( military - cost savings -HA) or the black chemicals were easier to obtain?
 

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I believe parkerizing is manganese phosphate. It only turned green when it came in contact with US cosmoline. The true color is a grayish. I'm not a chemist but that's what they say over at the CMP forums.

http://cmpauction.thecmp.org/detail.asp?id=1838&n=M1-Garand-SA-Collector-WWII-3413874

This auction is for an unissued M1 Garand from WWII It is coated with storage cosmoline. If you cleaned it you would probably see a greenish tint after 70 years.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosph...rl http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing
 

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Ed is correct..i have refinished many mg's and customers ask me to make it look green..guns are green because of the many years it has sit in cosmoline...parkerizing is gray in color
To remove old park or any finish for re-parkerizing, you must sandblast it off..this gives it an etch for the parkerizing to bond...the course the medis, the rougher the finish..i use 100 grit aluminium oxide..it give a snice smooth finish that doesn't eat up the markings when dipped...most people use a heavy media to hide pitting from rust..i repair my metal and work all the boogers out, so it looks factory new when complete...it is more timely, but the finish is more correct to factory and much more professional, smoother looking...the trick to a good re-park job is in the metal finish and blasting
 

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There are two "kinds" of phosphating or brand "Parkarizing".

Zinc phosphate is light to medium grey when done, it gets a green color if treated with cosmoline or other oil and allowed to age for years.

Manganese phosphate is dark grey to black.

One can buy either type.

Early phosphated US arms were dipped in a solution of oil based black dye and look nearly black.

Phosphate, either type, is actually chemically combined to the surface of the metal and porus; it must be oiled for rust protection.
I can only be removed by physical means, i.e. sand or bead blasting , sanding, or steel wool; unlike blue(hot salt blue) which a dip in weak acid will remove.
 
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