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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In a previous post, I showed pictures of the gun rack I designed for my own use.

Be advised that dimensions with an "n" are nominal lumber size with is actually smaller than the number given. 3n is 2 1/2 inch actual. Don't blame the messenger, that is the way finished lumber comes now days. I counter sunk all screws (No.10 x 1 and 2 1/2 inch most often as I recall) and filled hole with glued Oak plug. I used Elmer's carpenter glue.

The two sides are assembled with glue and dowel pegs and clamps.

1 side consists of:

2 pieces 1n x 4n x 95 1/4 inches
2 pieces 1n x 2 x 6 inches
1 piece 1n x 2 x 3 1/2 inches (locate at top of rack)

The two bottom shelves are assembled with glue and screws.

1 bottom shelf consists of:

1 piece bottom shelf 1n x 6n x 28 1/2 inches
1 piece back 1n x 3n x 28 1/2 inches Locate back on top of bottom shelf.
8 spacers 1n x 1 3/4 x 44 1/2 inches glue and screw using guns to locate

The two top shelves are assembled with glue and screws. The top shelf is located 3/8 inch down from the top edge of the back. The notches are drilled with a Foster bit to 1 3/4 inch and cut out with a jig saw. Looking at the rack from the front, I located the first hole 3 inches from the left side of the rack and then space the remaining holes at 3 1/2 inch intervals. The right hole runs into the side of the rack. I routered the edges to give it some class.

1 top shelf consists of:

1 piece top 1n x 2 1/4 x 28 1/2 inch
1 piece back 1n x 3 x 28 1/2 inch

The top stringer was added for stability. The rack will not fall over in normal use--I don't know about earthquakes etc. So you are on your own there. Attach to wall if you want.

1 piece top stringer screw to sides.

1 piece 1n x 3n x 28 1/2 inches

Location of shelves with respest to the sides:

Locate the front bottom edge of the bottom shelf 3/8 inch in from the edge of the side assembly and 1 3/8 inches up from the bottom of the floor. With that point fixed, rotate the bottom shelf downward so that the rifle butt fully fits the shelf and the barrel area of the rifle fits properly in the top shelf. Dimensions get in the way, try it and you will figure it out. Screw and don't glue unless you are not going to take it apart later.

Locate the front bottom edge of the top bottom shelf 3/8 inch in from the edge of the dise assembly and 48 3/4 inches up from the bottom of the floor. Rotate shelf into position as was done for the bottom shelf.

Locate the bottom top shelf as follows:

Both top shelves are located with the back of the back piece flush with the back of the side assembly. The bottom top shelf is located 34 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the rack. The top top shelf is located 80 3/4 inches up from the bottom of the rack.

I trust this will be of some use or interest. Please don't be emailing me with corrections/advice/ or that I am wrong, however, I will accept mountains of praise. You are on your own and this information is offered only as a thought starter. You may have to modify it to fit your needs. In my own fumbling way I know it works as I have assembled ten and have another six ready to do final assembly when I can reclaim my basement workshop. Good luck. Cost? I have no idea what wood costs today. I bought a truck load from a local mill to get a good price at the time.

I tried to post this earlier but I took too long adding data and got dumped. So I will start with pictures and in a second post give the dimensions involved. Let's see how this goes --if anyone is interested.

The finished product is 9 inches deep, 30 inches wide and 95 1/4 inches tall (8 foot ceiling). Making it wider can be done but the wood will bow and you will have to add a wood beam under the bottom shelf which will make getting long guns difficult to get in and out of the bottom shelf. Wider with Pine wood may not work at all.

This is a basic wall unit that holds 16 Lees with the possiblity of spacing more between racked guns. Top shelf is moved forward to allow long barreled guns to fit on bottom shelf. I recommend Oak for the wood but I did do the prototype in Pine and still use it but for all the work involved--it's worth Oak. Final finish was Minwax Golden Oak stain and semi-gloss clear urethane.

Bottom shelf showing spacer block spacing which is best left as the last assembly item so that you can put guns in the rack and locate blocks as required.


Top shelf showing spacing for barrels. Note that spacing is not the same at the ends due to offsets for the rifle bolts.


Close up of bottom shelf spacer area

op area of rack showing stringer added to give the rack stability. I was worried that the top area would move around as it had little support. This seemed to do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Nick

That was the very first rack. Then I realized I need more space for the bayonets, so the next have two rows of pegs:


The racks are on wheels and the dimensions are such that I can take any rifle without having to remove other. And the modular design allows me to stack them at different configurations. The disadvantage is that they do not present the guns to the viewer as well as yours. Yours are "museum exhibition" style, while mine are a bit more utilitarian, although made of select grade oak.
 

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looks good to me. i'm running out of safe space and places to put a safe, so your rack would be good for a closet. 1 improvement, i'd use a piece of trim to put in front of the buttstocks so you would have to slightly pick them up to get them out.
 

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In my rack I've glued in some 100% polyester felt around the areas where the guns rest, especially on the corners that might scratch and/or ding.
 

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ansley, I've been wanting to build a cabinet on a wall in my gun room like that double stack one. Will other milsurps fit fine or do mods need to be done?

I quess my question is have you put a mosin in there like a M91, 91/30 and M44, how do they fit? I keep my more valuable ones in a safe but I'm getting quite a few "leaners" along the wall in my gun room.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ansley is the moderator. Name got stuck at the top when file was transferred the the new forum. The small script name below the the "ansleyj", is the original poster.
 
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