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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I haven't got to shoot my type 99 as much as I would like to, but I've noticed that on all ~5 rounds that I have shot from it I have a fairly significant scratch on the length of the casings. Is this fairly common? Given that I plan to reload, I'd like to avoid marking up the remainder of my shells. I can't find a good way to get enough light in there to see where the burr is, but I did take a marker to one of the shells and cycled it to see about where it is. What would you say is the best way to go about smoothing it out? I was thinking about gluing some sandpaper onto a wooden dowel and using that once I find it.
 

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Try some fine-grain auto wet/dry finishing sandpaper, maybe 3'' wide, wrapped around a 45 cal cleaning brush,on the end of a pistol cleaning rod or two sections of GI cleaning rods.

Dean (the other one)
 

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I recently had a similar problem with an Italian rifle. I got a dowel and split the end about an inch or so, then cut a couple small pieces of extra fine sandpaper and inserted them into the split end back to back. Then I removed the bolt and chucked the other end of the rod into my cordless drill. At that point I just inserted the sandpaper end into the chamber and let it spin, letting the sandpaper "slap" the burr. Every few minutes and used a dry bore mop and air hose to blow out any dust, then inserted an empty case to check the burr. Once I got it back to smooth, I gave it a light coat of Eezox (oil) and it's good to go.

Anyway, that worked for me, but there are lots of methods for burr removal. Your mileage may vary.
 

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That's probably not the chamber, more likely its from feeding from the magazine, a good number of my Arisakas do it, you can polish the feed lips from the magazine. I've done it on a few and solved the problem but I just leave them now, it doesn't bother me.

Thanks for the replies, it gives me a little more confidence in my idea. I'll see what I can throw together with what I have on hand. Here's a picture of some of the shells if it helps anybody.
View attachment 2137714
 

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Hold on there hoss!Before you do anything with sandpaper(yikes!), take a properly shaped dental pick and feel around and around in that chamber for a burr. Or sharpen a piece of steel wire with a 90 bent on the end. If there is a burr it should be easy to find that way. But I doubt there is any internal burr. My guess would be on the very back of the chamber but doubt that too. I think the magazine box edges would be a likely spot to look. If you must go deep use 1000 grit and take your sweet time. Whatever you want to do, don't do it if you don't know what you are doing. Don't be that guy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As far as I remember when I marked the shell with the marker I fed it straight into the chamber without putting it in the magazine, so (if my memory is correct) I doubt it is in the magazine. I will check again with another shell to make sure. I did say I would make sure I found where it was before I tried to fix it, my plan isn't really to be reckless. I appreciate the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well I'll be darned, you all know your stuff! I was mistaken, those mark are from the magazine. I marked up a fresh shell, wrote a "T" on the top of the neck so I knew where the top was, and when I cycled it the line runs exactly where the edge of the magazine box was. I think instead of trying to polish it, I'll leave it as is and just hand feed the rounds in, I don't shoot much anyway. Now for another question... would you say these are safe for a reload?
Brass Finger Tobacco products Hand Thumb
 

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Glad you figured it out. Now go ahead and break that sharp edge with some fine paper wrapped around your finger, if you don't want to take out the mag box. Take your time and in 10-15 minutes it will be better than new. As for the scratches, some would reload them and never look back. I sense you are apprehensive and careful so set them aside, you don't have that many scratched ones. If you only have that one box, well then get more. I don't know your reloading experience but you should see where I'm going here. If you are pretty new at it then by all means buy a few manuals and read the forums here and over on the cast boolits site. And have fun too!! Almost forgot that part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks! Yeah my collecting experience so far has been buckets of fun with a few dashes of frustration mixed in. I don't have any reloading experience as it is, but my grandpa has been reloading for longer than I've been around. I just bought some dies from another member on the board not too long ago and I'll be visiting grandpa shortly so he can show me the ropes. I'll let him take a look at them and see what he thinks. I'll probably pick up some of that prvi partisan brass from graf's before then. Thanks again!
 

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Get a some of books on reloading and study them carefully (the test will be your face). I have the Lyman and Sierra books.

I was afraid of reloading, but the price of factory ammo to feed the collection of rifles from the major participants in disputes over the past 100 years drove me into it.

I don't load for maximum. It's easier on the rifle, and my shoulder.

Good luck!!!

Dean (the other one)
 

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back in the day when you either bought norma or formed the 7.7 from 3006(i hated that) a friend of my father told me to use 8mm brass and as the 8mm was 57 long and the 7.7 was 58 , when the 8mm was full lenth sized the neck was a little short, but no enough to hurt any thing. and i still use 8mm formed to use in the 7.7. eastbank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the tips! I had heard of the 30-06 conversion, watched a few videos on how to do it, and decided it was too much of a hassle. I had never heard of using 8mm before though. I think I'll go with factory original brass to be on the safe side, the price is worth putting my mind at ease that everything *should be safe. I'll see if I can get a hold of some manuals or online material in the meantime.
 

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7.7 Japanese and .303 British reloading data is very similar. If you get a book you can check it out for yourself. I use IMR 4895 powder. I use 45.0 grains with a 150-170 grain FMJ bullet. This load works well in early bolt action rifles and my LMG. I have used pulled 7.62x54r bullets. Some are a tad long to load into a LMG magazine. I just knock .020" off the tips and they fit well into the magazine. No feeding issues with the now slightly blunt bullets.
 
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