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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have fired almost 150 rds using Romy surplus and left the gun uncleaned for 5 days. After detailing and cleaning, I kept it back in storage. Now yesterday I have a loaded magazine . Inserted it and rack the slide. The bullet will angle high up once it leaves the mag halfway and gets stuck into the chamber like one shown in last pic. I tried this several times and same thing happens. I disassembled the gun and found the firing pin protruding out ( in 3rd pic). I tried to push it back but its stuck. Hmmm, maybe me leaving the gun uncleaned with those corrosive ammo must have caused this freezing of the FP. I tried spraying some engine degreaser but it doesnt go back up. Maybe I need to soak the slide in some solvent for couple of days.
I think its the firing pin thats preventing the back of the cartridge from leveling when chambering a round. The protruding tip from the FP channel that is. Now, how do i remove the FP , i didnt see any pin? BTW, is the firing pin on the TT33s springloaded ? Thank you

Just in case I need to get TT33 parts, is there anyone selling them like the firing pin , firing pin spring, FP retaining pin?
 

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Hi. The firing pin is held in place by a split pin that you can see toward the rear of the outside of the slide, just behind the extractor. One end of it can be seen in your last pic of your slide, in the middle of the serrations.

As I mentioned, it is held by a split pin and CAN NOT be driven straight out with a standard punch, if you try, you will probably break off one of the pins tabs (there's probably a better word), making it useless. You need a split pin punch, which I have never been able to find for sale anywhere. Theoretically you can make your own split pin punch out of a small brass rod approximately the diameter of the pin, with a vee shaped notch filed filed in one of the tips of it. The idea is that the vee shaped notch will compress the two ends of the split pin enough, allowing the pin to be driven out with out damaging it. This is not a very good explanation, but take a look at both sides of the pin, and you will probably get the idea.

The only place I have ever seen Tok parts for sale is www.marstar.ca. I have never done business with them, so I can't vouch for their service.

The firing pin is spring loaded.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi. The firing pin is held in place by a split pin that you can see toward the rear of the outside of the slide, just behind the extractor. One end of it can be seen in your last pic of your slide, in the middle of the serrations.

As I mentioned, it is held by a split pin and CAN NOT be driven straight out with a standard punch, if you try, you will probably break off one of the pins tabs (there's probably a better word), making it useless. You need a split pin punch, which I have never been able to find for sale anywhere. Theoretically you can make your own split pin punch out of a small brass rod approximately the diameter of the pin, with a vee shaped notch filed filed in one of the tips of it. The idea is that the vee shaped notch will compress the two ends of the split pin enough, allowing the pin to be driven out with out damaging it. This is not a very good explanation, but take a look at both sides of the pin, and you will probably get the idea.

The only place I have ever seen Tok parts for sale is www.marstar.ca. I have never done business with them, so I can't vouch for their service.

The firing pin is spring loaded.

Good luck.

Thanks. I have a feeling th eFP spring must have been crushed and lost its spring tension.
I did several dry firings before so it could have resulted to this.
 

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Thanks. I have a feeling th eFP spring must have been crushed and lost its spring tension.
I did several dry firings before so it could have resulted to this.
Hmm, I'm not so sure about dry firing having caused the spring to crush, unless there was already some problem with the spring to begin with. I's pretty much the same as dry firing a 1911 or Hi-Power, except that the Tok has a positive firing pin, but that should be irrelevant as far as dry firing goes.

Maybe corrosion, dunno, but looks like you will have to get to the firing pin to see what happened. Here is a link that shows a the mag release split pin being removed with a split pin tool in the last illustration, in case a visual would help you make one www.gunsworld.com/assembly/tokarev_ass_us.htm.

Post what you find out, I'm curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My problem is I dont have the special tool to punch it out. I may have to go to a gunsmith or buy this part to replace the one I may have to removed and render useless. It so happens I have a Wolff FP spring that came with the recoil spring I purchase months ago so this I can use to replace the old one out .

This Norc 54 has been my favorite bec it shoots really good and i love its slim profile and simplicity. The ammo caliber too is such a hoot. I prefer to shoot this more than my CZ 52.
Oh well, i have to deal with this for now. It would have been nicethat MR Tokarev designed accessing the FP channel to be less complicated as this.
 

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Here's the tool you need. I found this somewhere on the internet.
Get a brass punch the same diameter as the split pin. Grind, cut, or file a "V" in the tip of the punch, so that you get 2 fingers that go to either side of the split pin. Work the pin a bit by hand and then give it a little whack. Worked great for me. Take care that the pin, FP, and spring don't fly all over.
Good luck.
 

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The same thing happened to me once. Look at your empty cases - if you had any pierced primers the corrosive compounds went into the f.p. channel & rusted it tight. It's a good thing you had a feeding problem - I think that what you have now is a fixed firing pin full auto - LOOK OUT!
I took out the retainer & used a small punch to push the firing pin back. With penetrating oil in the channel it came out. The pin & spring were rusty but cleaned up ok. I recently bought new retainer pins from sarco for $1.40 ea.
I always check my tokarev for free movement of the firing pin before trying to load a mag.
mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I fixed it today just using a fine file that had a busted tip and hammer. I sprayed engine degreaser last night on the area of the FP retainiing pin. Slowing punched it and it moved with ease. Once it was out the FP was still stuck so I used other techniques to remove it. finally it came out. The thing was full of gunk and rust like material. I degreased the parts and polished the FP with OOO steel wool. The FP channel too was rusty , that too was cleaned with q tips and chemicals. Once done I used a new Wolff FP spring. Then back it goes. It was kind of tricky to put it back. Worth the work . I cycled a loaded mag and all went smooth like butter.

Thanks for all the advises . I hope this will help those who own TT 33s if they have the same problem. Lesson learned is to clean the gun and check if FP is stuck or not. The surplus ammo can gunk it hard to cause a frozen FP. Thank GOd it gave a sign before something bad happens. Liken to a SKS slamfire.
 

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"I cycled a loaded mag and all went smooth like butter" I am not trying to teach you to suck eggs Nathan, but I do hope that this was with dummy rounds or else on a shooting range pointing down range? Could get very noisy and dangerous otherwise!
 

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Just had to get my Romy out and check it. Pin and area looks great and moves easily. The 'split pin' would have driven me nuts beause it looks exactly like a small screw!

I save springs from certain ball point pens (have one replacing original spring in my Bushy AR15). Would one of those fit in the Tok? Looks as if it would.
 
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