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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, this is my very first post. I've been reading the Mauser section here on this forum for a while and just decided to join up to see the pics and post questions . Must admit that sometimes I'm up till 3AM reading in this forum since I have the milsurplus disease and it's so interesting. When I was around 10, I went to see THE LONGEST DAY about seven times straight at the movie theater. I am a WWI-II lay-historian. I "lay" on the couch and watch lots of War movies and War documentaries and read books. Lots of incredible info on this forum. Killer resource{maybe that's a bad metaphor on a gun board}. Anyway, this is sort of a dumb question but I have a couple k98s. I have a czech post WWII from Samco that I just got{nice bore, cool wood and stock was just a little dirty}. I also just bought a RC S/42, 1937 that's in nice shape with a very nice bore. OK, I was just wondering. After I took the bolts apart and cleaned them to get the gunk out{ I am not mechanical}, when I put the guns and bolts back together, I couldn't get the safety to move from from free-fire position, that is, to the left. On both guns, the safety is stuck to the left. Neither gun is cocked at this time . I like to push the bolt in with the trigger pulled in so as to keep from dry-firing the guns . My question is : is this normal for the bolt to stay on free-fire when not cocked or did I mess up the bolts when I put them together. Both guns do dry fire when I test fired them after I put them together. I am not mechanically inclined at all, but I figure that if I am going to collect a few milsurplus rifles that I should try to learn. Thank You in advance. PS. I ordered some ammo.....I think it's called M75 sniper Yugo ammo in 8mill.
 

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Welcome to the forums.

There is nothing wrong with your mausers. You can't engage the safety to half safe (middle) or full safe (all the way to the right) if the bolt isn't cocked. There would be no need to do so....

The M75 is good stuff but very pricey. It is consistent ammo but corrosive so the rifle must be thoroughly cleaned right after shooting with one of the corrosive neutralizing processes and then cleaned normally. Failure to do so will corrode the bore and bolt face. The standard yugo 70-80s ammo is practically just as good in various ammo tests as the m75. With surplus ammo drying or dried up already.... Reloading is the way to go unless you want to spend a fortune on commercial. If you don't mind me asking... How much did you pay for the m75 ammo and how much did you order?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank You Mauser Guy. Appreciate your answer. I bought the M75 ammo from Wideners Armory . The ad there said that it might be non-corrosive but the really non-corrosive stuff seemed pretty high, that privi Russian stuff.I think .

Item No.DescriptionUnit PriceQtyCost

SMA8N 8mm Mauser 196 gr FMJBT Yugo M75 Sniper Ammo $8.00/15 or $450.00 /900 8.00 6 48.00
Hazardous Materials Charge: 0.00
NRA Roundup: 0.00
Minimum Order Surcharge: 0.00
Shipping: 11.64
Sales Tax: 0.00
Total:
 

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53.3 cents a round without factoring shipping.40 cents is my limit for really good corrosive surplus. I have a thousand or so of the m75. It's for sure corrosive, but mildly corrosive. At least it's guarenteed good, sure fire, consistent ammo.

Prvi is Serbian new production non corrosive ammo.
 

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Prvi is Serbian new production non corrosive ammo.


MauserGuy, So if you buying ammo, what would you go for? What do you do at the range for cleaning when using like M75 ?
Personally I'm a big fan of the 70-80's yugo. It's mildly corrosive, sure fire and pretty accurate in my k98s. It's tough to find now. Aim surplus used to have them by case as little as 8 months ago. I stocked up and add to my "ammo depot" whenever it pops up.

The 50's yugo is decent. Corrosive. Sometimes you need to hit the primer twice to make it go bang but it's the cheapest surplus still available.

70's FNM Portuguese surplus is arguably the best surplus. Non-Corrosive. Very reliable, loaded to hotter or equal to german specs. Good luck trying to find any of this stuff though.

Commercial stuff from prvi is good (loaded weaker to US specs) and the brass is excellent for reloading.

Best commercial for me is S&B. It new production made in Czech Republic. Loaded to "hot" German specs. The most accurate in my guns out of all the other available surplus/commercial Ammo I've tried. The only downside is the price....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for the ammo info. That actually covered all the ammo I was looking at. I just didn't really know what to get and that's why I just bought a little of that M75 stuff.


Award. Yes, I did notice it said that there were no matches on Samco for the K98s and I bought the Czech K98 because of the price and I heard they had nice bores and barrels , but when I got the rifles the bolt matched the receiver very clearly. The Czechs I assume grounded down the crest serial number down on the barrel but you can still make it out some and it matches the bolt number but there's also a very lite printed serial number on the receiver {it's very small and lite right near the wood}which gives the same serial as the original one on the crest so it matches. I figured that Samco wrote that they didn't match because probably most of them don't but it seems that some do like the one I got. Mine had a stock with wear on it{ not bad} but the bore and barrel etc{metal} was very nice almost like a newer rifle.
 

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Very cool. Is there a chance to show the receiver in another photo? In the photo you posted it looks like the receiver has a dull brass reflection. I know the crests are ground off and that could just be lighting. Can you show the printed s.n. on it? Again, just curious. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Award, I will try with the pics. I am sure the old crest serial will show up fine but not sure about the printed one right above the stock wood on the shiny part of the crest {I think} since it's super lite. It almost looks like it was typed on with a typewriter...like little dot -type letters or letters made up of dots . I just noticed the letters when the sun was shining on the gun when I took it outside to check the barrel. I am using an I phone camera so let me see what I can do but I will take some pics and see how it does. Have to check and see if I have a real camera.
 
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