[basspastor]

I was just wondering. I completely cleaned the bolt {disassembling it} and rifle when I got my 91 but must one disassemble the entire bolt again again and clean it after shooting about 50 rounds corrosive ammo ? I have read different things about the bolt. Some say just clean the face etc of the bolt etc after shooting and then take the bolt completely apart after several times at the range . Also, I am using hoppes's 9 and then break free lube CLP to clean after corrosive ammo. Does that sound right? Any input would be greatly appreciated . thanks

 

[chw2021]

Not withstanding the other posts re. corrosive ammo, please be aware that you must (at least) use a water based cleaner ie...windex, water ect... to remove salts formed by corrosive primers. You do not need to disassemble the bolt every time, just clean the face and body.
Search the topic on this forum for long and exhaustive answers and have fun at the range.

 

[clayshooter2]

I just dip the whole face of bolt up to the bolt handle in a large Hoppes jar for a minute or so. I haven't had any problems with rust on the bolt. Then again I always leave a coating of oil on the bolt anyway after I clean my rifles.

 

[Captain Mainwaring]

I wipe down the bolt face, the firing pin (front part) and the firing pin hole (use a pipe cleaner) with an ammonia based solvent, but any water based solvent, ammonia solution, windex etc will do to clean off any primer salts (if any). Wipe it dry and oil. It's a bit of overkill, but I have seen corrosion on firing pin and firing pin channel of a bolt head, so I take the extra minute. With the Mosin bolt, it's quick and simple job.

 

[basspastor]

thanks so much. Yea, that makes sense that water would get rid of salt. I thought the hoppes would so that. I just was a little nervous about spraying Windex into my gun but as long as you put oil back in, you're ok. I will take the bolt for a dip in the hoppes too .

 

[Leon]

thanks so much. Yea, that makes sense that water would get rid of salt. I thought the hoppes would so that. I just was a little nervous about spraying Windex into my gun but as long as you put oil back in, you're ok. I will take the bolt for a dip in the hoppes too .

At the range remove the bolt head and wipe it down, inside and out, as well as the exposed portion of the firing pin with a patch saturated in whatever oil or solvent you prefer. The mechanical action of wiping will take care of what little primer residue may lurk. If you puncture a primer, then the bolt should be completely stripped and cleaned. Everyone checks the primer of each fired cartridge, right?

 

[LMyer]

At the range remove the bolt head and wipe it down, inside and out, as well as the exposed portion of the firing pin with a patch saturated in whatever oil or solvent you prefer. The mechanical action of wiping will take care of what little primer residue may lurk. If you puncture a primer, then the bolt should be completely stripped and cleaned. Everyone checks the primer of each fired cartridge, right?

Exactly what Leon said above. Remove the bolt head and wipe the firing pin and exposed surfaces down with a bore-solvent-soaked patch followed by an oiled patch. I don't do mine at the range, but it's only 5 minutes to home and I do it then.

 

[gotula]

I would suggest to break down the bolt to basic components and clean if you have blow back from a split case or blown primer. The interior of the bolt will be covered with the "Black Salt" residue for sure. Have seen it. Do not over look the interior of the mag well.

 

[nwellons]

I've used Hoppes only for 4 years of shooting with no problems at all. Some shooters swear by Hoppes, others by water based cleaning, but it looks to me like both work.

As to punctured primers, a quick look at the removed bolt head and front of firing pin tells all. When you get familiar with the look after normal shooting, you will immediately see all the soot and crud if you ever have a punctured primer.

As to timing, I do like to clean the same day I shoot but have cleaned the next day with no problems. I do bring my guns home to my de-humidified basement so next day cleaning may not work as well for others. Anyway, 95% of the time, I clean the same day but it is usually about 3 or 4 hours later than shooting.

 

[Vic]

Never had a problem with it. I use Daves spray gun care products (see review section) with awesome results.

 

[milprileb]

Leon, LMeyer and Gotula cover the entire subject for bolt. Well done and a subject not talked about so its good it came up.

I will add one more area: the area around the muzzle and front sight: just wipe it down with CLP or whatever solvent / oil you have.
There is a plume of gas with corrosive salts that mushrooms around the muzzle when a round is fired. Its best to wipe muzzle area
to make sure no salts and follow on rust happen around your muzzle.

For those that shoot with bayonets extended... you better wipe that bayonet off if you shoot corrosive ammo or you get a orange bayonet the next day.

 

[milprileb]

On the subject of cleaning a weapon after shooting corrosive ammo and the endless debate of water vs windex vs Hoppes vs Eds Red vs anything else, I am reminded of the Chaplin of our battalion. There he was at the pad in Bien Hoa (Viet Nam war) as our company disembarked from Huey's to catch an awaiting 3 CH 47 to take the unit to the R&R site at Vung Tau. The troops were filing past him to get to the hooks for some serious and well deserved down time. As we passed, he was trying to hand out condoms and lecture about the sins of the flesh. Yeah.. right... like any trooper cared to hear about it.

So .. in cleaning your bore after shooting corrosive ammo, anyone who thinks they can educate another on the subject is like that Chaplin.

However its wise to know what to do and not get into discovery learning with rust or sex.

 

[jjk308 In Memoriam RIP]

If you use ammonia or Windex rinse in plain water immediately afterwards. Anything with ammonia causes rust and really doesn't help clean corrosive salts. It's the detergent in Windex that cleans, not the ammonia, and a few drops of hand dishwashing liquid in hot water is better than Windex.

You will not get any corrosive primer residue inside the bolt unless you have a blown primer or blown case as the case seals the chamber and protects the bolt. When you first break down the bolt to clean it, before reassembly wipe all the parts with a rag that has RIG or Penn Reel Grease on it. That will protect the parts for many months and the little bit of residue that gets on the bolt face during ejection can easily be removed by wiping with some cleaner instead of disassembling the bolt.

 

[Leon]

If you shoot steel-cased milsurp, examine the fired cases for traces of powder residue. Some steel-case milsurp, e.g. Czech, does not seal well in the M39 chamber, and black streaks extend the full length of the case. That means some powder blowby is getting into the receiver. (Not a matter of concern: everyone wears safety glasses,right? The MN bolt vents blowby gasses safely through the ejector cutout and the bolt-head/bolt connector/bolt body junction.) If you see this, then follow the punctured primer/split case cleaning protocol: complete bolt strip, receiver, magazine. And clean the muzzle area as well. (Lord, I don't want to be the instigator of this again, but for the umpteenth time it is water that dissolves primer salts. Ammonia, detergent, borax, soda etc. added to Windex or whatever serves only as a surfactant to eliminate surface tension so the water at molecular level can make contact with the evil primer salts.)

 

[basspastor]

A big thanks to all for the terrific info provided. I can now refer back to this thread when cleaning the Mosin or any other rifle.

 

[LMyer]

A big thanks to all for the terrific info provided. I can now refer back to this thread when cleaning the Mosin or any other rifle.

Good luck and welcome to the world of Mosins!

 

[hershmeister]

Just run the bolt under your sink faucet then dry with compressed air and hit with some clp

 

[Montana Bearbait]

I use Hoppe's # 9 Black Powder Solvent & Patch Lubricant and Ballistol. Works for me.

 

[LMyer]

As you can see - there are many opinions and products out there. Most advice found here will work well as long as you actively clean your rifle. That's the most important thing when shooting corrosive milsurp - whatever method/products you use, don't forget to clean it thoroughly EVERY time.

I think how much of a problem residual salts are after cleaning ..... is highly dependent on your storage conditions. If you're in a dry climate (or possibly in a gun safe with dessicant), you can get by with a lot of things. Some of the things us northerners get away with may not work for someone shooting milsurp in Florida (like JJK308, and I see that apparently you are in Ft Myers). Just keep that in mind.

I can personally attest that whatever he is doing - JJK308 is able to keep his Mosin bores in perfect condition.

 

[Ronbo6]

Just want to add here that no matter how well you clean the bore of your rifle the day you shoot it, you should come back a day or two later and at least run another patch or two through the bore.

You will be surprised at what 'comes out of hiding' during the interim.