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On bbl markings - not sure what the 36 is - steel lot nr?, 40 is year of mfgr & RD is bbl makers code. When you disassemble your rifle see if there is an 0.2 on the bbl collar - part that is above the bbl and buts up against the rec.
Steyr, like most of the 98k mfgrs & many sub contraktors sent all manner of parts to Depots for use in rebuilding worn/dammaged rifles so finding a 623 proofed bbl on ANY 98k code is not an improbility. IF a legit WW 2 rebbl there should be the 0.2 mark on the collar. That would account for the different looking 6 on the bbl., But not on any other part.
On 41 dated rifles both the bbl AND receiver should have the ser nr on them - from ALL the different mfgrs. This was not discontinued till 43.
I don't know anything about the Swed 96 Mauser, but would question it being worth $350 unless in Mint condition??? I do not think trading for that one would be a good deal. The rifle you have should be an excellent shooter so keep it and enjoy it. Having been assembled with parts from 3 or 4 different rifles doesn't hurt it's shootability.
Sarge
Steyr, like most of the 98k mfgrs & many sub contraktors sent all manner of parts to Depots for use in rebuilding worn/dammaged rifles so finding a 623 proofed bbl on ANY 98k code is not an improbility. IF a legit WW 2 rebbl there should be the 0.2 mark on the collar. That would account for the different looking 6 on the bbl., But not on any other part.
On 41 dated rifles both the bbl AND receiver should have the ser nr on them - from ALL the different mfgrs. This was not discontinued till 43.
I don't know anything about the Swed 96 Mauser, but would question it being worth $350 unless in Mint condition??? I do not think trading for that one would be a good deal. The rifle you have should be an excellent shooter so keep it and enjoy it. Having been assembled with parts from 3 or 4 different rifles doesn't hurt it's shootability.
Sarge