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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was stupid and let a family member use my model 11, and it came back slightly lighter than it was before. I won't recount the story but whatever isn't here is at the bottom of a river. If anyone knows what all is missing or where I can get a list and parts it would be greatly appreciated. Only thing on tube is the pain ring, but reciever works.
3773023
 

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Don’t know how deep or swift the river is, could magnet fishing be an option ? Look at it on the YouTube type sites
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There’s always eBay . I have seen a lot of parts for these on there site
It's mostly I don't have any definitive list of what was fired off the reciever and the sacred tiny bits nobody has makes up most of it.
 

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For your Model 11, you’ll need a barrel, forearm, magazine cap, recoil spring, bronze friction piece and flat coil spring, and steel ring. Yours appears to have the 5-shot-length magazine tube, so kindly avoid purchasing parts for the 3-shot model.

you can get the recoil spring, friction pc etc from MGW as new parts. The forearm and barrel will be tough to find and expensive. Likely more than the gun is worth.

i believe Numrich sells new-made forearms for the model 11 that have some sort of shock absorber material built in, but i have never seen one and don’t know what they look like. Numrich can also supply the magazine cap. Barrel will probably need to come from ebay.
 

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I would definitely be magnet fishing for that barrel at least. Better yet, I would get my no-longer-family member out there looking until hell froze over. Wtf.
 

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Barrel.
Automatic 5 (Browning) recoil spring, bronze friction ring, steel "spring ring" that wraps around the bronze, and steel "adjustment ring" that adjusts the braking system for Light or Heavy.
Either Auto-5 or Mod. 11 Wood fore-end (crap-looking plastics are available), and Model 11 magazine tube nut (not same threads as Automatic 5 (Metric on A5, SAE on 11).

That should do, unless it is missing the magazine tube slider, and spring, and retainer, then add those (Auto-5)
 

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Oh, you still have the "Braking ring" (I call it the adjustment ring, because it adjust the braking force). You don't need that then.

"Pain Ring", REALLY?

If you ever learn to adjust the braking system properly, and do not drown them in excessive oil, the A5 is the least "painful" 12-gauge to shoot in existence. Least hammering to the shooter of every 12-gauge I own.
When's the last time you replaced the old tired recoil and action springs?????

Since you have it, take the stock off and put a new Action Spring in behind the bolt too.
 

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"Pain Ring", REALLY?


When's the last time you replaced the old tired recoil and action springs?????

Since you have it, take the stock off and put a new Action Spring in behind the bolt too.
I think that maybe should have read “pLain ring, but with the L omitted as typo.

agree on the action spring.
 

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There are a lot of people who proclaim the Auto-5 design to be terrible kickers.

Those same people likely have recoil springs that are completely sacked out (should be 9.25", a friend took his American Browning apart a couple years back, spring was 6" relaxed), likely have the braking system slathered in oil, AND are likely shooting "heavy" loads with the gun set "light".

That MIGHT have been a typo, lord knows I make enough of them, but I could also see someone calling that the Pain Ring since it adjusts the braking force.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh, you still have the "Braking ring" (I call it the adjustment ring, because it adjust the braking force). You don't need that then.

"Pain Ring", REALLY?

If you ever learn to adjust the braking system properly, and do not drown them in excessive oil, the A5 is the least "painful" 12-gauge to shoot in existence. Least hammering to the shooter of every 12-gauge I own.
When's the last time you replaced the old tired recoil and action springs?????

Since you have it, take the stock off and put a new Action Spring in behind the bolt too.
Until recently I was reluctant to replace anything unless it was broken. It was a numbers matching with the Ordinance mark on upper left of the reciever. I have gotten pretty good at setting up the recoil system over time, even with the weakening recoil springs, but I also have gotten pretty good at forgetting to reset it for a heavier loads after playing with clays.
I call it a pain ring to remind myself not to fire 00 without checking to see which way it's facing.
 

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Take the worn, tired-ass springs out, and then, unlike me, put them in a nice box with a bow, seal it, and clearly and indelibly identify it as to what EXACTLY is inside that box and what gun it goes to.

That way you still have "original" springs, and you can shoot it, without beating the **** out of it, with the spring forces it was designed to be shot with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Take the worn, tired-ass springs out, and then, unlike me, put them in a nice box with a bow, seal it, and clearly and indelibly identify it as to what EXACTLY is inside that box and what gun it goes to.

That way you still have "original" springs, and you can shoot it, without beating the **** out of it, with the spring forces it was designed to be shot with.
They were still in the serviceable rate range, but getting close, it still hadn't started bouncing off the fiber buffer yet. It was my first firearm, and my education was here's a boom tube. You load like this, shoot like this, change this to not roll backwards again, and never alter anything. It took an M-91 Mosin Nagant and French Mas 36 to teach me to ignore that. Then, I enlisted and it collected dust. Even so, I wish I had swapped out the barrel duckbill and springs for attainable versions. In my defense, I didn't believe you could lose half the gun accidentally... it's all or nothing in my experience.
 
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