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Junk.
 

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Actually not junk at all.

To be sure you will need to bugger up your M/N to mount it.

Requires two D&T holes.

The bolt handle that comes with the mount is "JUNK" .

Here is what worked for us.

Real PU scopes did not work well, too crude for target shooting.

We opted to try the ATI type mounts so any scope could be used.

We bought and tested for accuracy several 91/30s from big 5. Picked up non collectable regular run of the mill rifles with new barrels. Rifles need to be tested for accuracy before going through the expense and trouble of scoping it.
Or standards were five shots all touching at 100 yds with Polish or Hungarian ST. Barrels were also slugged for handload trials.

M/N 91/30s will shoot that well with the right ammo. Some folks don't believe that.
Some with new Tikka barrels and M39s will do better.

The ATI mount sits low and works perfectly.

The bolt handle that comes with the set is ugly and we opted to buy custom made bolts for ATI from Milsurp supply. They are pricy, but are well made and have a bit of a swept back look.

Got this idea from European hunters that have no problem with customizing their M/N for hunting.

The ATI mounts are available everywhere for around $45.

The bolt handle link is below.

We tried every conceivable combination of mounts available. The only ones that work as well were PE and PEM and they are very pricy.

For a shooter the ATI is the way to go IMO. You can use any popular scope of any power.

This set up opened our eyes to how well the M/N can really shoot with a good scope and experienced shooter.
Be aware that ammo is the VERY impt. in accuracy and proper bedding of the rifle is a must. Trigger pull has to be tweaked to a very light let off. If any decent accuracy is needed for long range paper target shooting. All of our triggers were around one or two pound let off. This is not for amatures and is dangerous.

Mounting a scope will not make the rifle more accurate.
All other factors need to be taken care of in order to tune the rifle for accuracy.

A scoped M/N with a heavy trigger pull is hopeless for exc. accuracy.

Non altering scout mounts are available from different mfgrs.
They will require a EER scope and seem to work better for younger folks with good eyes. They mess with the balance of a rifle, but some people do well with them.

http://www.buymilsurp.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_3


Be aware that these bolt bodies are made for ATI type mounts.

Regular sniper bolt bodies will NOT work with ATI mounts.

I realize this is not for everybody and some will consider this "Bubba" on this forum. So if you get too much static, go to the other forums for details.

Strongly recomended, not to use a rare or hard to find M/N. There are lots of run of the mill, millions made types out there with new barrels. New barrel is a big plus, no crown problems and or throat erosion.

I rejected D&T a lot of M/N that were exc. shooters, because they were not run of the mill M/Ns. and we did not want to alter them.

This set up has worked for years for us in various enviroments. Very solid.

There are other forums that cover this issue in detail for shooters and hunters.
 

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I took one of the most common Mosins made and Bubbaed it. After determing it was a shooter I modified a ATI mount by shortening it, I don't like the diving board effect as designed. Used J B weld to fill voids between the base and the receiver, it's made for either hex or round so there are voids. I modified the trigger by D/T 6-32 and installing a ball ground set screw(similar to a Huber trigger), and modified my bolt, could not abide the ATI bolt handle. The scope is an older Japanese made Bushnell banner 4x32 fixed, it needed to have the turret more forward than most scopes and there are only a few made this way and would not spring for a PE,Lyman Alaskan or a Burris. This rifle is a tack driver and I may have to take it on a hunt this fall although this will make my Remington 700's jealous. This is my one and only bubba. I will drill and tap NO more Mosins. I just wanted to approximate the Russian Sniper experience with a non fogging modern scope. This 91/30 was a December special from SOG for 59.00.
http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k36/cajuncj/Izzy pseudo PU/
 

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If you want a bend bolt talk to Jim The bolt Man. If you want a mount get a Darrells scout mount. When only the best will do.
 

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MN God thanks you for using a cheap one.

Did you re-do the shellac? If so, nice job for the deep red clolor. How many coats did that take to get that color? What cut and mix/flakes did you use?
 

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Not a collector piece, but it shoots well for hunting.

That is a nice looking set up.

JR the boltman also makes bolt for these, but IMO they are not as nice as the ones from Milsurp supply. I'll try to post a picture to show the difference. I have bolts from JR and Milsurp supply. Both will work, but the ones from Milsurp supply are quite a bit different and are more eye appealing IMO.

The bolt conversions that come with the ATI mount are not even an option. Very ugly.

Some of us have never been able to use scout mounts.
They are not balanced well enough for me for precise target work.
EER optics are also not well adapted for older eyes from my experience.
I have tried scout mounts on M/Ns, Swedes M96, Yugo Mausers, etc etc. and none work well for me. I always go back to low slung receiver mounted scopes.
That is just my take on it.

Again, that is a nice looking rifle. I would like a scope like that, but I'm sure they are hard to find.

I'm currently using a Weaver K6 on mine and it works great for all types of shooting and in Matt they have a kinda military look. Very slim and no bells and whistle to clutter up the lines.

Rifle pictured below is not mine anylonger, but shows the custom bolt from Milsurp supply.

Laminate with Kalinka scope made in Belarus.
Bolt is Milsurp supply type.

This rifle has about a 1lb trigger let off, no creep.

Scope looks better without the lens covers on, but the pictures are old, so I can't change them.

These were done years ago. Only a few were made. I have one left the rest belong to friends who hunt. No more will be done.
Keep in mind the current "snipers repros" on the market from the Ukraine are all regular infantry rifles that were D&T and converted to sniper configuration for the U.S. market. Not real arsemal selected and tested sniper rifles. Factory "Bubbas" in affect.

I also have REAL X snipers, but most don't shoot well enough to restore.

This "Bubba" will shoot.

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MN God thanks you for using a cheap one.

Did you re-do the shellac? If so, nice job for the deep red clolor. How many coats did that take to get that color? What cut and mix/flakes did you use?
Thanks Shy,I get that with his one and sometimes I think about lying and saying, Ya I used Finklesteins old number 8 amber shellac with schlomo's Kosher Denatured alcohol. The truth is I stripped it and stained with Min Wax Red Mahogany, Since this is a bubba I then used Tru Oil ,I quit counting a eight coats. Buffed with oooo steel wool between coats. After that it looked too glossy so I tried something, I rubbed it down with 1/3 Finn mix and it had a de-glossing effect while making it seem deeper. I have since used 1/3 mix on re-furbished shellac jobs, rubbed in right over the bumpy shellac and it will blend nicely.
 

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http://www.shellac.net/ShellacPricing.html

Shy, you can buy reddish shellac here.

Also, Home Depot has the Prevo aresol spray gun. Very cheap, about $5.
You can mix any color you want by using reddish shellac or regular shellac mixed with a few drops of Fiebings dye or Pro dye from Tandy. They are alcohol based and mix well.
Light brown, medium brown, dark brown in Fiebings has a very red tint to it and works well for M/N.
The Pro dye is the same thing but not as much red more brown.

You must use the alcohol based, not oil based version of the dyes.

Bulls Eye amber with a little Fiebings Light or Medium brown looks exactly like the original Russian red shellac jobs. You can alter the tint anyway you want.
Several coats give the depth look of suspended color. Looks good in sunlight.

You can also mute the shine to any degree you want, with the dulling product for shellac on the web site. Or you can use very fine steel wool to mute.

The Prevo sprayer has a little jar to mix it in and it screws into the sprayer.
You will have to experiment with the amount of alcohol to add to get a good cut that will work. Too thick and it will orange peel, too thin and it will run. Not hard to get right. Test on a piece of wood before using.

http://www.prevalspraygun.com/home.htm

You can also mix the shellac with the dye and apply it with whatever you want if spraying doesn't work for you.

This way you can get any tone of red or amber you want. It is much cheaper to use dye with amber or regular shellac than buying the pre mixed reddish shellac.

Most of the M/N refurbs recently have flaking shellac and a little fine steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol will smooth out the shellac and then all you have to do is re coat it. You can be as aggresive as you want when smoothing out the old shellac with steel wool, keep it wet with alcohol. Let it dry and re coat.

Some of the M/N refurb rifles have nice shellac finnishes on them from the importer and if you refinnish a flaky bad one, no one can tell if it was done by you or if you just lucked out and got one with a nice shellac finnish.

I got into it because I got tired of shellac flakes on my hands and clothes when I shoot the M/N.

Has worked for years for us.
 

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Singleshotcajun, That's a nice looking rifle you have there.
 

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Thank you sir. I think I'll tote it this fall and kill that hidious red nose Nazi raindeer named Rudoulph. It has been many years since I have hunted with a Mil-surp. I hunt very little these days but when I do it is back home in Mississippi and Our club is on a Buck program so you really need a scope to tell if a deer is a shooter or not.
 

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I couldn't bring myself to "Bubba" one myself so I started looking on the auction sites. I picked this one up AS PICTURED on Gunbroker for $70.00 shipped ($50.00 bid + $20.00 shipping). I thought I would be free of any anguish since I didn't do the dirty deed, but the pain sat in when I saw the [SA] on the reciever. AARGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


 

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That is the problem with these ATI kits. Most people who use them or do something similar, in contrast to the care displayed by members in this thread, don't know anything about Mosins other than that they are cheap, and ruin the first one they find. All too often it is a nice historic piece like that Finn capture. :(

The gun shop in which I work sells M44s and 91/30s and I often have to explain to people that they do NOT make good "sporters" and the cost of the rifle, the scope and mounts, and having the receiver drilled and tapped will be higher than the cost a new Remington or Savage low-end sporter. Add to that the fact that a modern rifle will usually (USUALLY) shoot better and use cheaper, more available ammo, and there's no good reason for your average cheapskate deer killer to butcher a Mosin.
 
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