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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so here goes.
I am in the process of restoring a Bubba'd Lithgow Mk1 No 3 WHOOPS WRONG DESIGNATION REALLY MEANT No1 Mk III with a complete 1944 Coachwood stock that cost a fortune.(I know some will say why not just buy a complete rifle as its is.Well I like to think I am restoring not just the rifle but the pride of the person that once carried it). I also get a lot of satisfaction bringing it back to how it should look

The stock set felt really gritty so I used wire wool to smooth it out and finally a white abrasive pad very similar to a scotch pad but finer. It came out beautifully and didn't need any BLO put on it at all. The bolt, barrel and receiver numbers match and mag is not numbered but has a seamless bottom.
Have obtained an Australian nose cap (still in the post nose cap that is)and the usual screws etc. from the usual company and started to put it all together and wondered. Why is the rear site guard off set to the right????? I cant see any reason why it should be as the site adjustment is on the left. The only thing that looks like it has anything to do with the offset is the Charging bridge lines up with the right ear to the right. So guys any ideas??? Will post some pics when completed long with a few others.
 

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The old windage adjustment knob.
 

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Have obtained an Australian nose cap (still in the post nose cap that is)
I bought an expensive set of coachwood on ebay recently & was offered the receiver/barrel for $30.00. Now my question is when restoring do you leave the numbers mismatching (in my case the bolt as well) or do you force a match?

Not trying to steal your thread ridgerider just thought we could share the guys opinions.
BTW was your nosecap from ebay?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have bought the nose cap from Springfield Sporters unmarked and have been lucky in that all the metal #'s have been matching. E-Bay can get silly but if you need authentic parts sometimes you have to pay the price As for the wood I got that on e-bay from Australia complete with all the lithgow / Slazenger marks. Now have a spare butt stock also in Coachwood.
 

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I bought an expensive set of coachwood on ebay recently & was offered the receiver/barrel for $30.00. Now my question is when restoring do you leave the numbers mismatching (in my case the bolt as well) or do you force a match?

Not trying to steal your thread ridgerider just thought we could share the guys opinions.
BTW was your nosecap from ebay?
Mismatched and unnumbered wood shows up on rifles all the time...I'd leave it alone. Force matching after the fact ain't kosher IMO.
 

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Mismatched and unnumbered wood shows up on rifles all the time...I'd leave it alone. Force matching after the fact ain't kosher IMO.
The wood is correct for the receiver/barrel. The seller had parted out the rifle in the mistaken idea that he would get more for it than selling it as a whole unit.
 

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The wood is correct for the receiver/barrel. The seller had parted out the rifle in the mistaken idea that he would get more for it than selling it as a whole unit.
So you're referring to force matching the bolt and nosecap? If so, my answer would still be the same...forcing a match after the fact is humping, pure and simple. If the seller had the matching parts and sold them, I'd try seeing if he could contact the buyer(s) and work some sort of swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I prefer to try to restore the rifle to good condition, not looking like it came out the box at Christmas, although I have a 1949 No4 Mk2 that looks like new. I feel that to force match parts is not restoring but forging. If parts are unmarked then leave them unmarked, if marked then thats OK as Its mine and I have no desire to sell them.
 

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Please, it's a No1Mk3 If it was a No3 Mk1, you would have a P14.

As for "force matching" just what kind of "force" is involved?????? I really HATE that term.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry John Dyslexic key board as to the force involved me thinks one wacking great ball Pein hammer and stamps should do the trick.
 
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