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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw this on the Luger Forum and had to get it. Pics are a combination of the original seller's and my own.


Overall pics


Thanks to that site in France, I found out this F-block was manufactured in 1874, and rebuilt at St. Etienne in 1886


Markings in various locations


This one was converted to .22 at some point. My guess is the 63 on the front of the cylinder is the year of conversion.


Next: Some close-ups
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now for my own photos


Like examples of the M1887 Swedish Nagant, the firing pin was relocated to the top of the hammer. Note its been reshaped for rimfire


Whoever converted it also filled in the original firing pin hole


Close-up of the forcing cone area to show off the conversion.


Front and back of the cylinder, notice the small cutout where the hammer falls


After multiple attempts, these are the best photos I could get of the bore.

I think its pretty nifty, just has one small problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The issue is that the cylinder binds.

For a function test, I placed #6 drywall anchors in the chambers, and cycled the action in both SA and DA modes. When it got to a certain cylinder, it started binding and stopped moving. This did not happen when the hammer was back a bit for loading, only when bringing a particular cylinder into battery. I changed out the anchors to rule that out.

So any clues on whats causing the binding, better yet, how to fix it?
 

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The ratchet looks like it may have a ding on it. I'd use a non permanent marker and number the cylinders and see if it's the same one
every time. I'd also look to see if the chamber inserts were causing it. There could be a rough spot in the hand channel.
Before doing any metal removal I'd make real sure first. A black marker can find the rubbing area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, same cylinder each time, right by the SN.

I'm inclined to agree its a ratchet issue, mostly because its on the same cylinder even after remove-and-replace.

Going to have an expert look at it, I don't trust myself with a file.
 

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If you happen to have more than one of these revolvers you could try a cylinder swap to see if it binds with a different one.
That could Isolate the component. But remember these revolvers were hand fitted.
I see a ding on one notch I'd blacken it and see if it rubs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wanted to follow-up here and give a huge plug.

I sent it down to Matt at The Revolver Armorer in Suffolk Virginia http://www.revolverarmorer.com/ and let them work their magic. They returned it with a lot of notes:

1. Front of Cylinder was dragging on the barrel sleeve, corrected this and opened the gap to .005

2. Headspacing was too tight and dragging on the recoil shield, corrected and opened the gap up to .005

3. Firing pin channel was extremely rough due to welding and modifications to the firearm for .22 conversion. This was corrected by opening up the channel to allow the hammer nose to better strike the round

4. Cylinder ratchets were dinged up from a poorly-fit hand. Both ratchets and hand were stoned and polished to correct this.

It wasn't cheap, but what I got back is now a fully-functioning revolver that I have been able to cycle through both SA and DA (with drywall anchors as snap caps) with zero problems. Can't wait to get this one out to the range!
 
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