The trigger is also another area where in some cases accuracy improvements could be achieved.
The problem in my view ( and it may be an extreme one) is that accurizing a military rifle in original condition is a form of alteration which strictly speaking is not historically correct. Granted that today's accuracy has most likely little to do with the original accuracy, particularly beacause of changes in the wood. But still a free-floating barrel or a polished trigger has not much to do with the way those rifles have ever been when in issue. I have a nice Mosin M91 sniper with a horrible trigger, and still can't convince myself to swap it with Finnish trigger parts....
In practical terms, to accurize a common model, maybe with a non-matching or post-war stock, would not be a problem for my own standard. For a piece in original excellent condition, I personally would not do it, except for things like proper cleaning and lubrication of the trigger, correctly set action screws, etc..
One more thing: at distances up to 100 -200 yards, a lot of accuracy can be gained just by raising the front sight with a non-permanent amount of epoxy material (like JB Weld): often having the correct point of aim makes a big difference. The epoxy will sooner or later fall off by itself, so no permanent alteration is made.
The problem in my view ( and it may be an extreme one) is that accurizing a military rifle in original condition is a form of alteration which strictly speaking is not historically correct. Granted that today's accuracy has most likely little to do with the original accuracy, particularly beacause of changes in the wood. But still a free-floating barrel or a polished trigger has not much to do with the way those rifles have ever been when in issue. I have a nice Mosin M91 sniper with a horrible trigger, and still can't convince myself to swap it with Finnish trigger parts....
In practical terms, to accurize a common model, maybe with a non-matching or post-war stock, would not be a problem for my own standard. For a piece in original excellent condition, I personally would not do it, except for things like proper cleaning and lubrication of the trigger, correctly set action screws, etc..
One more thing: at distances up to 100 -200 yards, a lot of accuracy can be gained just by raising the front sight with a non-permanent amount of epoxy material (like JB Weld): often having the correct point of aim makes a big difference. The epoxy will sooner or later fall off by itself, so no permanent alteration is made.
