[daryldiane]

I have a Carcano M38 short rifle in 6.5mm.
I have noticed that except for the nose cap the barrel is free floating. I have obtained a spare nosecap and am thinking of relieving the inside of the barrel band to allow movement of the barrel under the band.
Just wondered if anyone has tried this or has any thoughts?
Thanks

 

[Capt Zorro]

I've never done that but it should work. Try it and give us a report.

 

[Carcano]

Accurizing one's Carcano

A very good question indeed. Strange as it may seem, the board's previous postings have often treated reloading issues, but never the question of how to accurize one's rifle or carbine.

1. One first step is to ensure a firm seat of the receiver recoil lug in the metal recoil lug recess piece. If the wooden stock after this rectangular receptacle is cracked, this may negatively affect accuracy.

2. The same is true if the two stock screws are loose or unevenly tightened (they are guided in metal pillar tubes). It is recommended that one follow the "Swedish procedure" when reassembling the rifle.

3. Lastly, many Carcanos especially the arsenal-rebuilt ones may see the rearward receiver tang contact the wood, which regularly cracks under recoil. Following Mosin-Nagant practice, a slight gap might be more beneficial.

4. In my opinion, the handguard should not contact the barrel. Your viewpoint may vary, but I feel that carving or sanding the inner side of the handguard so that the barrel may expand contact free, cannot be detrimental.

5. Whether the barrel of a military rifle should be free-floated, is an eternal question. We have many examples both pro and con. Many extremely accurate Swedish rifles have full contact, many extremely accurate Finnish and Swiss rifle are free-floated, many Lee-Enfields have one specific mandated contact point forward in the forestock with a certain amount of pressure. Make your choice.

6., In the case of Fucili 1938 and 91/38 short rifles, the problem in my opinion is not so much the front barrel band, but rather the bayonet lug that wraps the barrel tightly. In order to avoid shifting of the point of aim with hot barrel, the barrel *must* be able to move backward and forward in the bayonet lug.

7. Clean muzzle crown. No washed-out muzzles. 'Nuff said.

8. More input? Please, write, argue !

Yours, Carcano

Alexander Eichener

 

[Ike27]

I think another variable that needs to be considered is the ammunition. Reloading can have one of the largest impacts on accuracy. Have you slugged your bore to be sure you are loading the optimal diameter bullet?

 

[DMala]

The trigger is also another area where in some cases accuracy improvements could be achieved.

The problem in my view ( and it may be an extreme one) is that accurizing a military rifle in original condition is a form of alteration which strictly speaking is not historically correct. Granted that today's accuracy has most likely little to do with the original accuracy, particularly beacause of changes in the wood. But still a free-floating barrel or a polished trigger has not much to do with the way those rifles have ever been when in issue. I have a nice Mosin M91 sniper with a horrible trigger, and still can't convince myself to swap it with Finnish trigger parts....

In practical terms, to accurize a common model, maybe with a non-matching or post-war stock, would not be a problem for my own standard. For a piece in original excellent condition, I personally would not do it, except for things like proper cleaning and lubrication of the trigger, correctly set action screws, etc..


One more thing: at distances up to 100 -200 yards, a lot of accuracy can be gained just by raising the front sight with a non-permanent amount of epoxy material (like JB Weld): often having the correct point of aim makes a big difference. The epoxy will sooner or later fall off by itself, so no permanent alteration is made.

 

[daryldiane]

Hi,
Only just came back to this thread today.
Lots of interesting points. I am using reloads with original bullets which I have batched for type and weight. Using two reloads, 36 grains N160 and 33grains of the original solonite. Both shoot to the same point of impact at 100yrds, though the N160 doesn't seem so pokey and has much less muzzle flash.
I have repalced the front muzzle band with another that seems less tight. Also the front sight with one slightly higher. Will try in a few weeks. Have received a front sight base which is about 1mm higher then the original, and will try that if the above is not successful. Can always put the original bits back on at a later date. I will not alter the wood, though I realise the bayonet lug is held quite firmly.
I received the parts from www.ssporters.com/index.html , Springfield Sporters, who were very prompt with the order. The parts appear new!