Accurizing one's Carcano
A very good question indeed. Strange as it may seem, the board's previous postings have often treated reloading issues, but never the question of how to accurize one's rifle or carbine.
1. One first step is to ensure a firm seat of the receiver recoil lug in the metal recoil lug recess piece. If the wooden stock after this rectangular receptacle is cracked, this may negatively affect accuracy.
2. The same is true if the two stock screws are loose or unevenly tightened (they are guided in metal pillar tubes). It is recommended that one follow the "Swedish procedure" when reassembling the rifle.
3. Lastly, many Carcanos especially the arsenal-rebuilt ones may see the rearward receiver tang contact the wood, which regularly cracks under recoil. Following Mosin-Nagant practice, a slight gap might be more beneficial.
4. In my opinion, the handguard should not contact the barrel. Your viewpoint may vary, but I feel that carving or sanding the inner side of the handguard so that the barrel may expand contact free, cannot be detrimental.
5. Whether the barrel of a military rifle should be free-floated, is an eternal question. We have many examples both pro and con. Many extremely accurate Swedish rifles have full contact, many extremely accurate Finnish and Swiss rifle are free-floated, many Lee-Enfields have one specific mandated contact point forward in the forestock with a certain amount of pressure. Make your choice.
6., In the case of Fucili 1938 and 91/38 short rifles, the problem in my opinion is not so much the front barrel band, but rather the bayonet lug that wraps the barrel tightly. In order to avoid shifting of the point of aim with hot barrel, the barrel *must* be able to move backward and forward in the bayonet lug.
7. Clean muzzle crown. No washed-out muzzles. 'Nuff said.
8. More input? Please, write, argue !