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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are mag rifle primers necessary to light off a .338, or is it a gimmick I dont really need to buy? I can get some, but have a LOT of regular large rifle primers already. Also, wise ones, what is a good powder for said .338 Win. Mag? I would like to just get one or two, not go through a bunch. Anyone have good results with one in particular? How about versatility in other loads like 06, 7.5 Swiss, .308, 8mm Mauser, etc...?
 

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I used IMR 4064 in my .338 win mag with good results. I'd bet there are loads for your other calibers with it too. As far as Magnum Primers go I use them but if you want with the IMR 4064 try standard primers the only thing it might do is hang fire. If it does you'll know you need the magnum primer. I wouldn't use standard primers with ball powder.(win 760 for example)
Motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think I will just not be cheap if hangfires are involved. I would buy POF made .338 if I wanted that. I was thinking it may do that as the volume of powder would be larger. Oh well, off to the store. My .338 is a gentle giant and doesn't kick as hard as an 8mm Mauser.
 

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bootleg

There is no "best" powder for a 338WM but if I had to pick just one or two it would probably be H4350 and H4831.

There are many reasons and occasions when a magnum primer should be used:

Cold weather - use a magnum
Powder weight over 70 grains - use a magnum
Ball powder - use a magnum
Powder slower than 4350 - use a magnum

Primers are the cheapest part of shooting. There's no reason to not have them.

JMHO

Ray
 

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Are mag rifle primers necessary to light off a .338, or is it a gimmick I dont really need to buy? I can get some, but have a LOT of regular large rifle primers already. Also, wise ones, what is a good powder for said .338 Win. Mag? I would like to just get one or two, not go through a bunch. Anyone have good results with one in particular? How about versatility in other loads like 06, 7.5 Swiss, .308, 8mm Mauser, etc...?
It depends a lot on the powders used.
Single base powders are easier to light, typically.
Double base powders (and I THINK all sphericals are D.B.) are typically harder to light. The slower burning ones especially so.

Just buy WLR's in the future and don't worry about "magnum or not". They are suitable for either or, and one more simplification to the bench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I saw how WLR were listed interchangeably for some loads. I will just switch to them after I run out of the other LRs I have. I will see if the local shop has some mags for now along with some 4350 or 4831. I am de-rouging my previously cleaned brass with corn cob as soon as it arrives so I can start on my .223s. Does anyone know if that residue from the rouge inside the cases ruins accuracy or cause ex cessive fouling? I cannot see how it wouldn't but maybe I am missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So when I looked at my stufrf at my father's house, I found that I have two thousand WLRs just waitng to be used. I primed up all my .338 cases, and will seperate them by headstamp for loading up batches even though they are all once fired. The re-sizing, primer removal on my Redding press was kind of a chore compared to my .223 ammo I made a few days ago. I am assuming that had to do with the much larger/thicker brass. Should I expect this from my LC 04 7.62 brass as well, compared to commercial .308? This is a really great forum and I thank all of you guys who take the time to answer my beginner questions with such detail.
 

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I use a lot of Lake City 762 (it's my favorite 308 brass). I don't note any especially dificult resizing, except OCCASIONALLY when first running it from "once-fired" state. I have no reason not to suspect most of it is machine-gun/gatling used and chambers may be a tad on the large size, so I reccomend no shortage of lube, or care of a "stiff" one, pull out, re-lube, go in again.


No, I did not mean THAT! ;)

Just make sure you have a way to remove the crimp afterwards.

I just went thru a 500-batch a couple weeks ago, majority is headed to be Prarie-Dog Sabot ammo (170 loaded so far) for use later in summer (if a trip gets to come together).

Bad news I discovered part way thru (and had to e-mail Hornady to find out this), their New Dimention dies are not made to deprime thru the crimp (busted 2 pins :((( ), I had just bought this die! Fortunately, my old Hornady Durachrome set from 1989, has no problem with it, had no problem for 2 decades+.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Oldstuffer. HaHaHa. I got a good laugh out of your statement about lubing. It is funny you mention the Hornady new dimension dies as those are the very dies that I was using to size my Nato cases. I ripped two bases off the cases in the dies on the up-stroke. I think I'll use them to only size commercial brass as I hear it is thinner. They must have tighter inside dimensions than my Lee and RCBS dies in other calibers. It is a pity I also bought them in 30-06. Good thing my dad had bought a stuck case remover tool. It is an RCBS that you drill and tap through the primer pocket and then screw an Allen head into the tapped hole, pulling the case out. Worked great, but those dies have me perplexed. As for the dies, I didn't have near as much fuss out of the Lyman .338s while sizing that once fired up. Maybe someone wants to trade for the two sets of totally unused 30-06 and 4 cases sized .308? What is a good sizing lube? We have One-Shot and I think it is way too thin to be of much use. My LC isn't triple crimped on the primer either, like some of the .223 my Lee's ripped right through.
 

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bootleg,
It sounds like you have a lube problem. I've never had trouble sizing military brass except for the crimped primers. You don't really want to ask what is the "best case lube" that's like asking what is the best deer rifle!:) First, take the decapping rod out of your die and thoroughly clean the inside of the die. Make sure you don't use anything that may scratch it. Metal products are sometimes shipped with a rust preventive on them. You need to remove it. Second, You need to "feel" the brass as you are pushing down on that press handle. It should be shooth. If its harder than usual stop and retract. If it's sticky then you have a lube problem. Some spray lubes need to dry before use. I have used Lyman spray lube and still have some but I don't like the inconsistencies I get with it. It's probably me but. I like the RCBS case lube and lube pad. I roll my nylon neck brush on it and brush the necks, about 8 at a time then put them on the lube pad. When the pad is near full I roll them on the pad then size them. When they start getting harder to size or start feeling sticky in the die I know it may be time to put a little more lube on the pad. I work the lube into the pad with an empty primer container. The edge of the plastic lets you scrape the pad without damaging it and works the dirty lube onto the plastic to be thrown away. It works pretty good. I wouldn't dissgaurd your dies. Try some other case lubes and make sure your die is clean before you use it.
Oh, one more thing. In one of your other threads you asked about IMR 4064 in a .338 Win mag. The reason being you wanted a powder you can use in various calibers. I replyed that I had good results with it. I didn't say it was the best for that caliber. That was not your question. IMR 4064 works fine in many calibers as does IMR 4350. I got 2900 fps with a 200gr Nosler ballistic tip with IMR 4064 in my .338 mag. Accuracy was not a problem because the rifle was a Winchester Classic Sporter with 26" BOSS equiped barrel. I watched the impact on every deer I took with that rifle IN THE SCOPE that is how good the BOSS/Muzzle Brake works on those rifles. Wish I still had it:(
Motor
 

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Dear Mr bootleggerspub - I use IMR4064 in two different .308Win loads, two different 7x57 Mauser loads, and all my 7.5x55 Swiss reloads.

As for 'gimmick', I think that you are mistaking the ammunition manufacturing companies for McDonalds.

As you can see by getting onto the relevant website, the ignition characterists and flame profile of a magnum primer is waaaay different to that of a regular primer, and is necessary to correctly flash off the usually large volumes and tall columns of propellant found in the so-called magnum-class cartridges.

However, you are welcome to use regular primers in your .333LM reloads - just don't expect the performance you would get from using the correct components.

tac
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I have the 30-06 Classic Stainless BOSS(bought when I was 14 from babysitting money), my .338 is an XTR from the early 80's. I really like the BOSS as you can dial in the load for anything you shoot. I USED to be able to get cloverleafs when I was younger, but it seems that I don't have the steadiness I used to. I will clean the Hornady dies up and see if that was it. I should have known about shipping preservative being on them, hopefully that was all it is. I had the cases lubed up pretty well also, but maybe I will get the lubing pad or some sizing wax and try that again. As was noted, I did have to back off several times to even get the case sized, up and down, up and down... It was much stiffer than the .338s were. I like Hornady stuff and that is why I bought the New Dimension dies, plus they came with 100 bullets last fall.

I am heading over to clean my dies and try again. I do feel rather dumb that that is probably all I needed to do. I am also going to buy a 1000 mag primers today as well, because I do want mag performance since that is what the rifle is made for. I will try a few loads with the WLRs as well to see if they work. Tac, you got me thinking which isn't necessarily a good thing. As for the gimmick comment, I meant that I saw some loads for .300 Win mag that took a regular large rifle primer instead of a mag.

Oldstuffer, are the WLRs hotter than a normal LR primer?


UPDATE ON NEW DIMENSION DIES... O.k., so I went over and cleaned out my dies and made sure all were spotless and lubed up with some oil. I used the One Shot spray lube and got the inside of the neck and down below the shoulder. So far, so good. I then attempted to size the LC04 and had generally the same problem as yesterday after just a few cases. Being IRATE at this point and not accepting failure well, I decided to try something else. I remembered about the Pacific Sizing wax, but didn't want to wait three or four days to get some. Sooooo, I got to thinking about my 1/3 mix for stocks. Beeswax, Turpentine, Boiled Linseed oil. It is semi liquid at higher room temps, solid when cold. I was very generous about getting it into the neck a bit and down past the shoulder. I pulled the handle down, one handed, and had a sized case. It also came out just as easily, so I repeated the process with about three hundred more in the next hour. I plan on rinsing them a few times in thinner and alcohol, letting dry and tumbling. I know I didn't use the right method or product, but my efforts paid off, instead of me getting mad again.
 
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