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Bolt head wanting to snap shut upon removal is a sign that the "nub" on the opposite end of the extractor is worn. A profile view will show it as a triangular shape with one side at 90 degrees and one at 45 degrees. You can try to put a little more bend into the extractor or touch up the "nub" with a file.
I agree completely.

If the bolt head slams shut when removed from the receiver, or if the bolt head snaps shut VERY easily when removed, then you have a problem of an improperly fitted extractor.

What is happening in these cases (usually) is that when you are extracting a cartridge, the force put on the extractor head causes the extractor nub inside the bolt body to jump out of its slot. Thus, when you are working the bolt, the bolt head is trying to rotate shut and dragging in the left raceway. Sometimes if you cycle the action without a round in the chamber, the problem will go away. If it does, then this is DEFINITELY your problem.

Some refurbs (Bulgarian ones come to mind) did not afford much attention to ensuring bolt heads, extractors and bolt bodies were kept together. These parts were originally fitted to each other at the factory and troops in the field did not typically strip their bolt bodies.

I have fixed a number of these rifles before by swapping extractors around. If you have more than one M95, try changing the extractors between the rifles. Sometimes you get lucky and both rifles end up "fixed". If not, order a couple spares and try a few till one works for you.

Stripping the bolt is not too tough.

1) Remove the bolt from the rifle and ensure the bolt head is snapped closed. If it isn't, snap it closed yourself.
2) Grab the bolt in one hand and use your thumb to hold the safety. Pull the cocking piece outward until the safety engages. Use your thumb to keep the safety engaged and rorate the cocking piece until it comes off.
3) Use a wooden dowel and a soft mallet to tap the firing pin into the bolt body from the rear of the bolt. Stop once the bolt head is extended about 1.5" and the extractor is rotated past the right bolt lug. Now pull the extractor forward out of the bolt and set it aside.

At this point you can swap in a new extractor and see if that fixes your problem or not. Reverse the above steps to re-assemble. If you want to disassemble further keep going as per below. If you have never stripped your bolt before I STRONGLY recommend a complete strip to clean out old dried grease and gunk that may also be adversely affecting function. When done, make sure you lube with a nice light machine or gun oil before reassembling.

4) Pull the bolt head out of the bolt body, paying attention to the bolt head's orientation when it disengages from the bolt sleeve's helixes (hard to describe, but obvious what I'm talking about when you actually do it and see the moving parts).

5) The rear of the bolt head is a nut with grooves machined into it to match the spiral grooves or helixes on the bolt head. Turn it counter-clockwise to remove it, but be careful. The firing pin is under tension and will shoot out the back once the spring tension is relieved. I would suggest pointing it in a safe direction or holding it against a board or something while you do this. Once it threads off, relieve the spring tension and remove the firing pin and spring. TA-DA! it's stripped.

6) If you want, you can go a step further and remove the safety. Remove the retaining screw and pull it out.
 
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