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Copper Bullet member
4,850 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It seems like you know what you are doing..........I have a M-N 91/30 now but I have been looking at the m39 to turn into a sporter......I have a problem with my hands as I am older, pulling back the safety on the M-N.....I have found that Timney makes a triger assembly with a saftey on it that can be installed into the 91/30. So my question is, will that same triger group from Timney fit into the M39.........I am looking for a shorted rifle to get into the bursh a litter deeper. And The m39 looks like the way I want to go, If this can be done..Thanks
For a "brush gun" ,short carbine, I won't part with my "custom" M44. It came to me from Bubba, sans bayonetand lug already ground off. Similar treatment with a new Boyds stock, bedded, LimbSaver butt pad and 12oz mercury recoil tube in the stock. Tuned and tweaked in similar manner. With sling, it is something you can throw on your back for a trek through the woods.
Snaps to shoulder very quickly and points very fast. Great for standing shots fromthe shoulder as the weight is shifted to the rear so sights come on target fast. It was a post war production so the bore was excellent. Mojo adjustable rear sight and fiber optic front blade makes for quick target acquisition. Bolt cycles slick as warm butter. Accuracy is great at 200yds from the shoulder and standing with it is not laborius.
The M39 is a prize "bench shooter" and way too heavy for much else.
The M44 would be my "go to" for a "hunter" ( if I hunted with rifle) I still enjoy making "snap shots" from the shoulder with it now and then.

223 Posts
Nice thread, I can't see the images, but that may be do to a filter at work. Some things I picked up, while building this. Pine Tar Oil mixed with Linseed oil will over time start to darken. If the part didn't come with the Pin or screw, well have fun finding the correct one. I like the Accu Mount as I think it is a close to correct as I will ever get for what I can afford, but I am not a huge fan of the scope. I think the money would of been better spent on finding a Vintage Zeiss, Wetzler, or Khales. The canvas scope cover is okay, but the leather strap is cheap, and will break over time. I do some leather work on the side so I plan on redoing the cover.
*no Finnish rifle were harmed making this rifle. Built from parts.

90 Posts
Trigger Spring

Follow the instructions in the above for lightening the spring by grinding to the indicated thickness.
Spring tension, and trigger pull weight have much to do with this tuning.
I have performed this on just about every Mosin I have with considerable improvements.
You can go a little too far, which I have not done to date, so it is a good idea to have a spare or two from Numrich in your parts inventory before you begin!

The easiest way to accomplish this is with the Dremel sanding drum.

The important part of this tweak, once you have achieved desired thickness by grinding both sides of the spring, is polishing the top surface where the trigger rides to mirror bright.

This is done by first hand rubbing with 1200 grit paper and then buffing with the Dremel and fine compound until all your grinding marks are completely polished out to mirror smooth.
On completion and final assembly, one tiny drop of Moly Fusion is applied to the surface to give the trigger a smooth as warm butter ride and protect the surface from rust.
1) Thinning of the Mosin trigger spring [sear] was all over the internet in 2009.
2) Buying a Huber trigger for a Mosin was all over the internet in 2009.
3) Polishing the Mosin trigger was all over the internet in 2009.

I discouraged those 3 changes in 2011 with this video

This diagram I made in 2011 is really just Hooke's spring law.

Handwriting Rectangle Slope Font Parallel

What I encouraged starting in 2011 was to 1) bend the Mosin sear .....or better 2) buy a Timney Mosin trigger.
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