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Discussion Starter #1
I acquired a 1938 Sako M28/30 today. The front aluminum barrel sleeve was missing. The seller found a replacement, but never installed it. The front sight assembly has to be removed to replace the sleeve. On a whim, I loosened the front sight set screw and the sight just slid off. The front sight is Sako marked on the muzzle side and finish is consistent with the barrel. I believe this is the original sight.

When I replace the aluminum sleeve should I solder the front sight after reinstalling? If so, what is the best method and solder to use?
 

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​it should be soldered.​
 

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I appreciate it. Do you have any recommendations on solder type and technique for a clean job?
Anything you do is going to alter the bluing if there is any.
Use heat paste to try to stop as much as you can.

Sorry, it's a difficult thing to try to describe by typing it out.
Have any friends that are gunsmiths?
They should have everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your response. I have been researching it online this afternoon and I am concerned about the finish too. I can check with a gunsmith and see what he recommends. I may be able to minimize the effects with a lower temperature silver containing solder or solder paste. The heat paste is a good idea to stop heat transfer to surrounding areas.

I wonder how it was removed without affecting the finish much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I would set back & think about this for awhile. Is it the original blue or has it been arsenal refurbished?

CH has pointed out the original color of the front nose piece & the mid barrel band was case harden colors.
If you have gone to the trouble of taking off the front sight now is the time to make it right.

The front sight should be just sweated on.
 

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OK, I'll have a break and leave this job for Bugelson.

Anyway, here's a motivational picture just to keep you going...

 

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Antti, be my guest, the faster the better.

I'm at the range at the moment so it'll take time until I can get to the translation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am in no rush and would like to see what the Finnish Army repair manual says for the sight installation.

As far as bluing and finish, the bluing is thin and has gray look to so it might be original. The front sight is slightly darker and color is more consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, I'll have a break and leave this job for Bugelson.

Anyway, here's a motivational picture just to keep you going...


That's a neat photo. I couldn't see it well on my iphone. I don't have a torch that big!


Have any of you ever soldered with hot air. I received a Home Depot pre-black Friday email this morning showing a hot air gun that will heat to 1050°F - this is considerably hotter than most solders I have been looking at. From a modern perspective, I was wondering if this is a better way to go to avoid the 2000+ °F temperatures from a torch - to avoid affecting finish. I expect heat transfer will not be as good as a high temperature flame, but common silver "containing" low-temperature solders melt in the 400 - 500°F range and Brownells Hi-Force 44 melts at around 650°F.
 

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You need a pin point flame, But you could preheat the front sight in a oven. Whatever you do the sight has to be true on the barrel. Wait on CH.
The finish is original, I would bring back the case colors. Oh heck I forgot about Richard & our Peace Accord, Sorry.
 

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You need a pin point flame, But you could preheat the front sight in a oven. Whatever you do the sight has to be true on the barrel. Wait on CH.
The finish is original, I would bring back the case colors. Oh heck I forgot about Richard & our Peace Accord, Sorry.
Isn't there a set screw the Finns used on the front sight that will be used to make sure it is true to the barrel?

I had a M39 with the sight off and that set screw put it right back in the correct spot, really no way to screw it up unless one was maybe crosseyed.
 

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Isn't there a set screw the Finns used on the front sight that will be used to make sure it is true to the barrel?

I had a M39 with the sight off and that set screw put it right back in the correct spot, really no way to screw it up unless one was maybe crosseyed.
Oh there is a way, just saying he needs to be careful if going back with fast setting solder. That group in the picture are not shooting craps.
 

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Isn't there a set screw the Finns used on the front sight that will be used to make sure it is true to the barrel?

I had a M39 with the sight off and that set screw put it right back in the correct spot, really no way to screw it up unless one was maybe crosseyed.
There are surprisingly many m/28-30 and m/39 rifles that have the front sight not straight. I have two myself which don't have enough windage correction.
 

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OK, guidelines to the front sight removal.

-Remove the windage adjustment screws and front sight blade.

-Unscrew the set screw.

-Heat the barrel muzzle end at length of 10-25cm with liquid gas flame. During this the barrel must be rotated all the time to make sure it doesn't heat up too much.

-When solder (50/50 tin/lead) starts to melt the front sight is punched forward out of the barrel.


To attach the front sight:


-Remove blueing and impurities from the soldering points.

-Apply hydrochloric acid diluted with zinc using brass brush or steel wool.

-Plate the areas with solder 50/50. If necessary, apply more hydrochloric acid to ensure the solder spreads evenly.

-Remove excess solder "tapping" the parts quickly.

-Heat both the barrel and front sight body and set the body in place with a guiding tool (blueprint located at AV1) or bench vise. Soldering temperature must not be so high that steel surfaces in the white become blue.

-Apply more solder via the upper hole of the front sight.

-Punch the sight body gently with a hammer to ensure the solder holds.

-Make sure the front and rear sights line up.

-Cool the heated areas applying water sparingly.

-Drill a set screw notch of 0.5-1.0mm to the barrel using a 3.6mm bit. Not to harm the threads on the front sight body, remember that the angle of the screw hole is 15 degrees.

-Oil the barrel internally and externally with Shell Ensis Oil 152 or other gun oil accepted.



Since the areas you have are already soldered I think it might be easier just to clean all the dirt/grease before removing the sight. When attaching you could just heat the areas and then press the sight in place without messing any HCl. I'm pretty sure the old solder holds and you wouldn't have to worry about ruining the blueing with HCl. If necessary, you could add more solder via the front sight blade hole.

I fixed my shooter m/39's not straight front sight simply heating it and then turning. ALL THE COSMO WAS REMOVED before this. The old solder held just fine!
 
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