#3 son is going to be using an M-1 Carbine for a patrol "rifle" (as his department doesn't use EBR's, except for SWAT) and has asked me to 'go over' a new in box Plainfield M-1 Carbine he picked up at an estate sale. The carbine has had very little use, but did have the bolt locked open (maybe 30 + years) so the recoil spring feels weak and I will be replacing it and maybe the rest of the springs with a Wolff gunsprings set. After replacing the springs will be taking it out to the range and seeing what it will do at 100yd.s with Remington 110 gr. SP ammo (same as the department uses). Depending how accurate it is, I've been told by an ex-USMC armorer to do the following to get the most out of it:
1. Put a bayonet lug barrel band on it, as it outshoots the other types that don't have the lug (currently does not have the bayonet lug type). Some of his cohorts use the bayonet lug to mount a light, so that would be a plus.
2. Replace the metal vented hanguard with a 4 rivet wooden one and to make sure it fits tightly, but not so tight to having force it and without flexing the stock and barrel. Said it should be just short of loose.
3. The rear end hook in the stock. The recoil plate slips under the receiver to wedge fit it in on the recoil plate. If this wedge effect is sloppy, you get both flyers and groups the size of a dinner plate even if everything else is OK. He said that when the receiver is fitted snuggly into the recoil plate, you want the tight fit to hold the barrel at the front end of the stock 1/2" to 3/4" above the stock so you have to gently pull the barrel down to fit the band on the stock nose. Said sometimes bedding the recoil plate also helps, but not very often.
As the gent is in his late 80's, does this make sense to all? Also, if anyone has done this sort of project any other suggestions would be great.
1. Put a bayonet lug barrel band on it, as it outshoots the other types that don't have the lug (currently does not have the bayonet lug type). Some of his cohorts use the bayonet lug to mount a light, so that would be a plus.
2. Replace the metal vented hanguard with a 4 rivet wooden one and to make sure it fits tightly, but not so tight to having force it and without flexing the stock and barrel. Said it should be just short of loose.
3. The rear end hook in the stock. The recoil plate slips under the receiver to wedge fit it in on the recoil plate. If this wedge effect is sloppy, you get both flyers and groups the size of a dinner plate even if everything else is OK. He said that when the receiver is fitted snuggly into the recoil plate, you want the tight fit to hold the barrel at the front end of the stock 1/2" to 3/4" above the stock so you have to gently pull the barrel down to fit the band on the stock nose. Said sometimes bedding the recoil plate also helps, but not very often.
As the gent is in his late 80's, does this make sense to all? Also, if anyone has done this sort of project any other suggestions would be great.