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#3 son is going to be using an M-1 Carbine for a patrol "rifle" (as his department doesn't use EBR's, except for SWAT) and has asked me to 'go over' a new in box Plainfield M-1 Carbine he picked up at an estate sale. The carbine has had very little use, but did have the bolt locked open (maybe 30 + years) so the recoil spring feels weak and I will be replacing it and maybe the rest of the springs with a Wolff gunsprings set. After replacing the springs will be taking it out to the range and seeing what it will do at 100yd.s with Remington 110 gr. SP ammo (same as the department uses). Depending how accurate it is, I've been told by an ex-USMC armorer to do the following to get the most out of it:

1. Put a bayonet lug barrel band on it, as it outshoots the other types that don't have the lug (currently does not have the bayonet lug type). Some of his cohorts use the bayonet lug to mount a light, so that would be a plus.

2. Replace the metal vented hanguard with a 4 rivet wooden one and to make sure it fits tightly, but not so tight to having force it and without flexing the stock and barrel. Said it should be just short of loose.

3. The rear end hook in the stock. The recoil plate slips under the receiver to wedge fit it in on the recoil plate. If this wedge effect is sloppy, you get both flyers and groups the size of a dinner plate even if everything else is OK. He said that when the receiver is fitted snuggly into the recoil plate, you want the tight fit to hold the barrel at the front end of the stock 1/2" to 3/4" above the stock so you have to gently pull the barrel down to fit the band on the stock nose. Said sometimes bedding the recoil plate also helps, but not very often.

As the gent is in his late 80's, does this make sense to all? Also, if anyone has done this sort of project any other suggestions would be great.
 

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This is a strictly personal method which fixed things for my 1944 (I think, without looking) Inland Division M1 Carbine.

1. Never changed into a bayonetlug configuration, so no meaning about this.
2. Never even had a metal handguard, so no meaning about that either. However, I fully agree with: just short of loose.
3. I "blocked" the play of the rear hand hook by placing a piece of (thin, soft) leather between the rear of the hook and the recoil plate. I have to pull down the barrel into the fore end of the stock, there is indeed (in my case) 1/2 à 3/4 inch to pull down gently.
I also took away the "play" were the barrel rests (or should rest IMO) on the first inch of the fore end. In other words, there is a piece of leather of 1 inch long lying in the "gutter" were the barrel band is.

Some may consider this a very curious method but it works for about 40 years now. The difference? From groups of 9 inches at 100 meters to about 3 inches. I'm not 80 years old (hope to get there:cool:) but only 62 and think that what you heard makes a lot of sense.
 

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The best information on reliability and accuracy on the M1 Carbine is in the book "The U.S. .30 Caliber Gas Operated Carbines: A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen.

This is a real gunsmith's manual on how to work on the Carbine.
Unlike the usual GI Tech manuals, this one really gets down deep into how to rebuild, accurize, and rework the Carbine.

It's money WELL spent:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...805&title=Jerry+Kuhnhausen+SHOP+MANUALS/BOOKS
 

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The Israelis wanted to use .30 carbines for police use to avoid over penetration problems with 5.56 and came up with the Magal which is based on the Micro Galil and is prone to the same over heating problems. Seems like a reasonable concept although they could have simply refurbed all the M1 carbines they already had. They are apparently being redesigned to do away with the overheating problem. http://www.israeli-weapons.com/weapons/small_arms/magal/MAGAL.html

The concept of the handgun caliber carbine for police use seems to have lost favor and I'm not sure why. I thought it was a much better option than the patrol shotgun. I'm still very fond of my CAR-15 in 9mm and think handgun caliber carbines are still a good idea. Not sure if .30 carbine is the solution, not sure what the problem was in the first place. Maybe your boy could use a Ruger police carbine in 9mm or .40S&W.
 

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i agree with M44, just replace the springs, and just shoot it, then go from there. i have a winchester and a plainfield, both shoot just fine up to a hundred yards, took a pig with the winchester. i really would'nt go to all that bother unless it needed to be done, the M1 is not a sniper rifle, and i doubt your son expects that. but i'd bet it will be plenty acurate for the ranges he intends to use it at just like it is, and unless he shoots rapid fire mag dumps, i doubt the metal handfuard will be a problem. just shoot it.
 

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"The 30 carbine is the only "pistol" round used in rating ballistic vests that requires a level III for protection"

Guess it's better to use the 30 carbine round than be embarrassed by using the Tokarev 7.62x25. I've heard stories about this 1700-1800 fps velocity round penetrating vests.
 

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Plainfields are the best of the commercial Carbine s in my opinion. I picked up a low serialed numbered Plainfield (10,5xx)yesterday. I have a IBM and a Winchester . But the price was right ,$250.00, and it is mint with several GI parts such as the hammer, barrel band, Rear sight,GI bayonet lug, stock, safety, trigger, Barrel is like new and metal in great shape. Came with two loaded 15 round mags and a GI sling and early oiler. Took it the club today and the previous owner Was correct. it is dead accurate at 50 yards. Vry accruate in fact. Off the bench , using a 25 yard pistol target, it puts thme all in the balck and close together. My GI carbines are accurtae. But Not like this "Plainfield Machine". NIB Plainfield is even better. I saw a good conditioned Plainfield in the GUn List yesterday for $499.00 without shipping and FFL cost to t he buyer. MIne is easily a 500 buck carbine. NIB, but it looks like it wont be NIB for long, would be quite a it higher I would think on the open market.
 
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