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Discussion Starter #1
I see that there is soon to be a huge loss of information when the old site goes down, very sad.

I usually save web pages of interest to me by using File Save then Web Archive Single File on options. I don't know if they can be uploaded as a file and I don't know how to convert them.

I just wanted to say thanks for previous advice, bring you upto date and pick your brains further about scope mount options on Model 1900 as I am about to order the new Nikon Monarch 6-24x50.

regds
 

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Hey Trex, Yeah, quite the new home here. Everybody pitched in and moved a lot of the old posts over to here, so the information isn't lost. I think you can save the web pages as txt files or htm files directly to your hard drive. I've done that before and it is an easy process. When you are on the page you want to save, just go up to the top tool bar and click on file, then click on "save as" and then you should get a window with a drop down menu that will have several file formats available to save the web page as.

That Nikon sounds like an awful lot of scope for a 1900? Have you dealt with high power magnfication variable scopes before? The reason I ask, is that for general hunting, that is a lot more scope than one really needs. Not being critical, just thinking of my own experiences with such scopes.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Kriggevaer,

as you say I save web pages as Web Archive, single file - this seems to work really well and photos expand, animations work etc, when viewed later. I tried to attach one from my drive to my post yesterday with no success. Works great at home though but I'd hoped to use it as a method of transferring old posts as attachments.

Heres a link to my old thread soon to disappear -

http://old.gunboards.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=222211&SearchTerms=help,identify,HVA



I did take most of the information Larsluthor asked for but can't find the piece of paper. The action parted from the stock easily enough and the channel has bedding compound along the length of it. The barrel appears to be free floating except perhaps for an inch at the receiver end. It measured out at 29" long and is 4 groove R/H with a 1 in 9" twist. I can't find the diameter dimensions but a note I have informs the barrel is marked S K TMM. The K is within a circle and the T has little arms dropping off the upper stroke, maybe someone recognises that. The only other markings are British Proofing marks.

The trigger had been changed out for a two stage Shutz or Shultz? The gunsmith has a drawer full of them but we were both a bit puzzled as to why change it - when the standard trigger was a two stage?

On the range it's nice to shoot and is accurate enough for me at the moment. I have only shot it with 100g Norma and 139g Privi so far - the heavier bullets were grouping well so hopefully once I learn reloading I can pull the groups in a little tighter. I have some Lapua 144g & 139g, also Sellier Bellot 139 or 140g heads to try when having free time. The trigger pulls fine but never having shot a standard one I'm unable to compare.

It's all fun so far and would have to say the quality of the action was well worth the effort in sourcing, it's nice to shoot left handed as well. The fact the rifle has already been messed with means I have no concerns when planning various mad schemes for it.

Not much experiance with high power scopes so will write another post.

regds
 

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You jogged my memory, now I remember your rifle - ah yes, now I understand. I like the Nikon scopes. For the money they are hard to beat.
Here's the original post - it was a very interesting one -

Author Topic
Trex
Gunboards Member
Posted - 04/15/2007 : 6:50:25 PM
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I am trying to identify the year of manufacture and find any specifications for a rifle which I'm interested in purchasing.

The action is a left hand bolt and is marked on the right hand side of the receiver HVA Carl Gustav Sweden - on the front of the receiver just along from the above is the serial number 624140

The barrel is marked with the 6.5 x 55 calibre

The rifle has been restocked with a target style stock and the barrels sights have been removed so I figure I'll feel no guilt on any further modifications, whereas with a CG63 or matching M96 this would'nt be acceptable. The left hand bolt will suit me better as well.

Any help would be appreciated, some load suggestions if possible might be useful as well. As yet I don't have the twist rate and am curious to what it should shoot well.

thanks

sbhva
Moderator
USA
1477 Posts
Posted - 04/16/2007 : 09:26:16 AM
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I don't have exact production dates on the FFV/Carl Gustaf production guns (serial numbers over 500,000) but I would say the rifle you're looking to buy was made in the early 1970's. I would expect there to be FFV and/or Carl Gustaf markings as well on the gun somewhere. They serial number places it in a batch of left hand ("vanster" in Swedish) actions. How long is the barrel and is it a normal contour or a "bull barrel"? There was a target model (actually for running boar competition) made by the factory and it featured a longer barrel (about 26.5") with a straight, heavy contour and a target style stock. The barrel has a cone shaped sharp taper from the receiver ring for a couple of inches to a fixed dieameter for the rest of the length.

If it is a standard barrel it will shoot lighter bullets very well including 140 grn. I don't know how it shoots the heavier bullets. Larsluthor is our resident expert on the 1900 action guns in general and light bullets in the 6.5x55.

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Steve
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Edited by - sbhva on 04/16/2007 09:27:51 AM

Trex
Gunboards Member
12 Posts
Posted - 04/16/2007 : 5:33:33 PM
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Thanks for the response Steve,

I've been reading like crazy in here trying to figure out what it is. The history in the mid-seventies seems to get quite complicated. The fact alone that it's left handed means I am buying it. Trying to find a good second hand L/H rifle in this calibre has been difficult even near impossible on my budget but I'm hoping to be pleased with my purchase. At the moment I'm just assuming it's a modified sporter which leaves me a bit of latitude.

The barrel is described as approx 29.5" long, 1.1" OD at the action tapering down to .75 at the muzzle until the last section which is reduced to .61" OD for mounting a target front sight.

Cosmetically it has a couple of bad points but overall I like it. I am uploading some pictures but due to dial speed they might take a while.

Regds

LeeSpeed
Gunboards.Com Gold Star Member
USA
1024 Posts
Posted - 04/16/2007 : 9:57:14 PM
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This is crazy...

LEFT-HANDED Husky???

Didn't know they even existed.

And li'l ole South Paw me left reaching over the top...

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For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, that whosoever believes in him should not perish but have everlasting life. Jn 3:16 Verbum Domini Manet in Aeternum.

sbhva
Moderator
USA
1477 Posts
Posted - 04/17/2007 : 09:51:43 AM
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To be precise; the left handed actions were made after FFV/Carl Gustaf bought the 1900 action and production tools and machinery from Husqvarna, but I would guess that Husqvarna did the drawings, etc. previous.

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Steve

sbhva
Moderator
USA
1477 Posts
Posted - 04/17/2007 : 09:52:59 AM
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Trex, it sounds like an after market barrel to me, but pics would sure help.

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Steve

Trex
Gunboards Member
12 Posts
Posted - 04/17/2007 : 12:08:20 PM
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Hi Guys,

I'm back again, I have uploaded 6 of the 12 provided pictures, due to thier size and the fact that I'm on dial-up it took some time. I look forward to any further information that can be provided and thank you for your help so far.

Leespeed it's hellish being a southpaw sometimes. I decided to give the CG63 I found a miss and pesevere with finding a L/H action the rifle below has been advertised for sometime and never sold so I decided to investigate further. I could probably have argued for a small price reduction but figured WTH as it's probably the ideal rifle for my needs and budget.

Hope this helps some, if necessary I have some other shots that may help. I look forward to enthusiasts thoughts on this one.

regds chris

daniel phillips
Gunboards Super Premium Member
USA
297 Posts
Posted - 04/17/2007 : 4:40:37 PM
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"1973 carl gustaf comes to aid of the long-neglected portsider with a true left hand rifle.based on a mirror image action,the safty, bolt handle and ejection port are all on the left. the stock is revised for the left handed shooter. available in all grades in those standard and magum calibers listed for the right handed models "grade 2 Lh,grade 2Lh magnum, grade 3Lh, grade3 LH magnum, grade v LH, grade v LH magnum. (these are sporters doesnt say anything about varments?targets?)that set two world records in international competition at phoenix in 1970. {but an interesting note} for the stocks we availed ourselves to expertise of P J. wright nationally renown gunsmith and highly sucessful competior in national match competion. and every ct-t barelled action is stocked by p j and must meet his exacting demands before his HIS NAME IS STAMPED in the wood. (but the stock pictured may look at the rear close, but the front no, belly no). yours is pictured guns and ammio augest 1986 the vikings are coming. i put your info here on a thread called" husky 6mm/243 twist rates???" my mistakgo to that it will help you and the other guy.<>< daniel phillips

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dan phillips

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Edited by - daniel phillips on 04/18/2007 11:22:23 PM

Trex
Gunboards Member
12 Posts
Posted - 04/19/2007 : 07:40:03 AM
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dan thanks for your response in the other thread regarding my rifle

http://www.gunboards.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=222118

it's much appreciated that that you have taken the time to write out the above notes etc, I have to confess to being ignorant regarding Gustav sporting rifle and wasn't aware that they did them in varmint and target versions. Jripple's rifle is very nice and the barrel contour seems much closer to that as described by Steve above.

I guess I have maybe got lucky with my purchase but it remains to be seen how well it shoots. I understand the previous owner bought the rifle for a competion series that was later cancelled and according to him he has never even put a round through it!!! It has lain in his safe for the last 10 years with no use whatsoever.

I'd love to see more reports and information regarding competition use if anyone has it available I will pay for scans or the original material.

Hopefully Lars and others can advise regarding twist rates and best load potential, I'm keen to get shooting with it when it arrives so I'm ordering a variety of ammunition and a new scope.

On another notes as mentioned above I'm unfamiliar with the 1900 series, does anyone have or can point me too where I could locate an owners manual, as yet I'm not even sure how to pull the bolt.

best wishes all -chris


daniel phillips
Gunboards Super Premium Member
USA
297 Posts
Posted - 04/19/2007 : 09:46:09 AM
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trex pull trigger as far back as possible, next pull bolt out. i dont have a scanner, but maybe soon. if i get time ill write some info about 1900 actions, trigger adj ive forgot but have the guns and info. bolt take down is simple , from memory take bolt out, push in bolt shroud stop and just turn, assimble same. at one time i was writting a artical on huskys carl gustafs, vikings ffv,with gun digest mag. deal got changed when managing editor left firm and took my info to publish later ?? haven gotten all the mechanical drawings, photos back yet<><daniel phillips

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dan phillips


sbhva
Moderator
USA
1477 Posts
Posted - 04/19/2007 : 1:59:42 PM
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Trrex, your gun is an FFV/Carl Gustaf 1900 action with aftermarket barrel and stock made to look like a factory Varmint/Target (called the "Sporter" model in Sweden). Take a look at the 6mm thread to see jrippel's factory Varmint/Target gun.

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Steve

daniel phillips
Gunboards Super Premium Member
USA
297 Posts
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 10:19:09 PM
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TEX/ SBHVA I BELIEVE YOUR RIGHT, I FINALLY GOT THE HANG OF MAGNIFYING, SEEN ALL THAT GLASSBEADING, AND THE 6.5X55 ON THE WRONG SIDE ALSO? WELL FROM A DISTANCE IT LOOKED LIKE THE VIKING THEY WANTED US TO BELIEVE IN. THEY DID A GOOD TRICK-OUT ON ME! BUT IS THAT A VIKING STOCK ANYWAY?<><DANIEL PHILLIPS

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dan phillips
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Edited by - daniel phillips on 04/23/2007 10:22:30 PM


Trex
Gunboards Member
12 Posts
Posted - 04/24/2007 : 10:47:01 AM
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Dan/Steve,

Thanks for the help. I have to admit to being unsure as to why Steve was so certain the rifle was a 1900 re-barreled and restocked (I thought maybe it’s the case Varmints were not L/H).

It certainly appears to have been re-barreled but I’m unsure if it was maybe a target/varmint model that had been re-barreled. At this point I wouldn’t decide either way.

I don’t know if there were any differences between the standard 1900 and varmint models other than the stock and barrel that would help me to decide. If there are other differences then I’ll be able to look for them closer to the weekend when the rifle arrives. I suppose it’s possible the stock is aftermarket but again I’d need some clues to be certain of this.

Contrary to what members may expect, it is not an issue for me if the rifle is “not” a varmint/target model. My long term plans are to probably further modify it anyway for target shooting, but I’d prefer not to depreciate something that maybe has historical or interest value to others.

If it’s an aftermarket stock I will feel no guilt when/if I take the saw to it - if it’s a Gustav stock I would prefer to stick it in a cupboard and have another made up from a blank. I suppose it’s immaterial really due to the large amount of bedding material that appears to have been used.

Due to the way firearm legislation works here in the UK it can be difficult to have two rifles in the same calibre. My way round this is to have a 6.5x55 “target” rifle (the model 1900) this should hopefully allow me to have a 6.5x55 “service rifle” for service competitions. I have a couple of leads on very good/excellent condition Mauser 96’s with all matching numbers etc - so hopefully at some point I will be able to add one to my gun cabinet.

If anyone in the UK has an interest in buying a CG63 post a note and I will give you the contact details for the one I was looking at. I cannot find the thread in the military section but the pictures are still held on photobucket.

Regds

Almost forgot, I mentioned before about looking for an owners manual. When I was searching through threads the other night I noticed that a member had a 2 page PDF in English on the model 1900 which he sent to a couple of members. I have PM’d him with no response as yet - does anyone have a copy that they can upload to me please?



larsluthor
Gunboards Premium Member
USA
248 Posts
Posted - 04/24/2007 : 12:42:43 PM
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Trex

I can help you with identifying which parts are original 1900 items and which are not. I need a few close up pics of some areas and a few measurements. I need to the see the barrel muzzle up close and the measurement of the diameter. I also need to see that 4 on the floor shifter knob... and to get a diameter on it.. to the nearest .001" or .01mm's. I suspect from what I see on it that it is not an original black knob as used on real Var-Tar's. Also for FYI.. there was an option to order your Var-Tar back in the day with the well oversized and unfinished var-tar stock as well as the finished version. The bedding in the barrel is what interests me.. as it may tell what was once in there. also are there any proof marks on the barrel? and can you get closeup pics of the chambering mark and any proofs. also measure barrel length. But since that rifle was probably smithed over there it should local proofs especially of England or germany etc. if it was barreled here in US and brought back it will have tell tale signs and distinctive measurements....
It is very rare to find a sporter barreled rifle in such a centerfire caliber stocked to an across the cross High Power stock. That barrel simply would not yield acceptable reliability for accuracy during the 10 shot rapid fire events at 200 and 300 yards! that's 10 shots in 60 seconds! No one I have ever seen uses such a light weight taper sporter barrel for what that stock was intended for...
and lastly the most important measurement and pic is of the bolt face...The measurement across the bolt face opening for the case rim to sit in needs to be measured accurately... that will tell it all I think....also be certain the bolt is numbered to the action... the last 4 digits of the action number will be in the bolt sear channel, and what does it look like?
This should keep you bust for awhile...barrel diameters, lengths, bolt knob, bolt face, pics etc....
oh and where is the magazine follower, box, trigger guard etc??? can you get a pic of the underside?? something was modified for the deep belly offhand stock...which was it??? also new bedding screws had to be made so those will not be original... jujst 6.0mm x 1.0 pitch anyway!!


larsluthor
Gunboards Premium Member
USA
248 Posts
Posted - 04/24/2007 : 12:50:35 PM
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Trex

My apologies... did not see the other two pics, PC took awhile loading and just now saw them....the barrel hasa been turned to accept a slip on front globe sight as used in high power competition. skip measuring that diameter... but do get the dim right behind it where it is still unturned. get measurement to the center of the front receiver bridge though...and if you can get a diameter at the receiver face great.
I see they inletted the original trigger guard and floorplate... is the follower original as well? pic?/ many times for high power they will alter the followers for better feeding etc.
is the barrel actually bedded all the way out the channel or is it free floated for most of the length? types of bedding tell you a lot as well...have you removed it from the stock yet? you should try to be sure it was done well...nothing makes a rifle shoot more crappy than a poor bedding job.. you need to know!!


daniel phillips
Gunboards Super Premium Member
USA
297 Posts
Posted - 04/25/2007 : 7:40:09 PM
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guys just maybe the first owner was left handed too, and made a "poor boys" target,groundhog,kangroo gun? due strick laws he did the best to make what he had in mind,with what he had,a left handed gun made light,to shoot accurate for long distance at targets at a slower pace than in real comptition.i think we all tinkered with projects that we only we understood,all the whys? im just woundering how good does it shoot? and did he get it right? its still a good project gun no matter how you cut it.<>< daniel phillips

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dan phillips
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Edited by - daniel phillips on 04/25/2007 7:46:41 PM


Trex
Gunboards Member
12 Posts
Posted - 04/26/2007 : 3:39:47 PM
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Apologies for the slow reply but I'm on standby for work.

Dan I think you pretty much have it for the original modifier, left hander, small budget, throw in the UK legislation and the fact that there are no great piles of parts to pick through or that new parts are very expensive (New Remington Left hand VSF's have come down from $2200 dollars to $1600, over the last 6 months, possibly due the pounds strength against the dollar at the moment).

Lars thanks for your thoughts on the matter, the rifle seems a bit of an oddity and I'm unsure what direction the original owner was taking, maybe some form of 300m. Any help in identifying standard parts, modifications or aftermarket parts would be much appreciated especially when looking at the action and trigger in more depth.

I found some free time to look at the photos a bit more and compare them more closely to the stock on JRipple's, I have to assume that there was only one version of the HVA or Gustav Varmint/Target in which case mine is different in the forend cut, the belly depth and the contours around the handgrip. I'd really like to see the Viking type photographs in Guns and Ammo mentioned by Dan. Intresting your comment that a buyer could buy a second stock.

I've put up more photos showing the bedding and it's not awe inspiring, the area just at the front of receiver on right hand side looks like a gap and the wood damage along the edges of the barrel channel looks like it was done with an axe! It may be the case that it shoots well but mentally I'm preparing for the worst, what do you think?

The barrel is another issue, if target shooting why not a heavier barrel? Length was given as 29.5" approx and the removed barrel sight holes can be seen. I don't know if Gustav did a version with a long barrel, I get the impression about 26" was more usual.

The first thing I intend doing is checking the barrel length and rifling, would you know the thread details for barrel to receiver? I'm wondering if this might help place the present barrel as it would seem unlikely that there would be enough material on a production sport barrel to turn it down to suit the Gustav receiver?

I'll take the pictures and measurements requested and any more that you think helpful. I figure this may take a month or so, as I would like to shoot the rifle as it presently exists. The only ammo I have to hand locally is Norma 90g it seems very short but was cheaper than I could buy brass (I think it may be discontinued) and the next shoot is Saturday so I can't see me being organised in time. After I run some ammo through it I will start dismantling it (if I can figure out how). When putting the receiver back into the stock is there a torque figure I should use? Or is it tighten to satisfaction.

I almost forgot but it was mentioned above that loading for these was something you are knowledgable about and It's something I intend to learn to do once I buy a press etc. You seem to think the bolt face dimension will give a clue. I'm not certain but am curious to what your thinking is here - the only thing that immediantly springs to mind is modification for an "improved" cartridge - a subject I have been trying to learn more about at present.

I do think Steve is correct when he says this is a 1900 rebarreled and re-stocked, so pretty much my ideal rifle, a cheap "quality" left handed bolt action with no history in a condition that I can "bubba" a bit without worrying about it too much.

Regds All



daniel phillips
Gunboards Super Premium Member
USA
297 Posts
Posted - 04/26/2007 : 8:49:41 PM
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trex,two things if you can make a templet of screws head/placement position and or make a witness markS with paint to show 9:00< on screw and wood positions BEFORE DISASIMBELY and count the turns back two the mark on assembly is what i do after ive tweek mine to best shooting pressure! this is on target as well as sporters. "it works" and ends a lot of "unknown changes" at the range,and after take down cleaning due to weather conditions during hunting. second i dont have a scanner or i would send viking pictures.aug 1986 G&A,may be someone else has them? another thought, maybe he was compensating weight with length and balance? with the powder he was using.(burn rate)needed longer barrel? just guessing! i think i put barrel lengths (26 in) on that other thread. and if you cant get the action out due to bedding. put in freezer and srinkage will occure, tap barrel with rubber hammer, when all ELSE fails spray 10w40 in all reseses and do it all again. bolt face dia(standard cal).485"/ depth .115" 12vT.P.I./ LENGTH SHANK .770"/ INSIDE DIA.RECIEVER .985"/ OUTSIDE RAIDUS OF BARREL NEXT TO RECEIVER IS 1.10"/ GUARD SCREWS SPACING 7.75"/ screws 15/64x26/ size and threads, stricker travel.300"(jappanese arisaka screws type 99 is same except for length. so if you need longer!! and husky 1600/ hva will not interchange.and its striker travel.500"longer distance.[BY FRANK DE HAAS, BOLT ACTION FIFLES, 3rd edition isbn number 0-87349-168-8] DBI BOOKS INC.] BUT IVE FOUND SOME/NOT MANY MISTAKES CAUSE HE DIDNT HAVE THE DATA WE HAVE ON THE NET.GET THE BOOK IF YOU CAN IT HAS ALL KINDS OF "GUNS" INFO.<>< DANIEL PHILLIPS

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dan phillips

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Edited by - daniel phillips on 04/27/2007 06:58:31 AM
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi again Kriggevaer,

thanks for the copy of the thread, here is the piece I wrote explaining my scope thinking.

no offence taken on the scope comments, I understand your concerns that it could be a costly error. I have similar concerns myself. Any thoughts on this from yourself or others would be appreciated as I am not experianced in optics. With all the export restrictions in the US these days it's important I get this right first time - there's the financial concerns as well.

On scope use - I mainly shoot targets at 200-500yards and we have access to 1000-1200yard range. Fellow club members are using high end German optics, Swarvorski, S&B, Ziess and some using NF etc. I suppose I really want magnification of x16-x25 with decent clarity?

I have to say the clarity on the first two mentioned is fantastic. Not having a huge budget I keep coming back to the Nikon Monarch 6-25x50 SF. The reviews I have read always recommend them highly - pricewise their very good but they are not being imported into the UK, so some exclusivity value. A number of fellow shooters are keen to see one. If it's very good but if it does not suit the HVA/CG maybe my significant other will allow the purchase of another rifle!

On mounts - this is my real concern, getting these wrong. Rifle presently has 18-19mm dovetailed mounts on it from Parker Hale A22 -Front and A39 Rear. Because the scope is expensive I prefer to use detachable mounts so to be able to move the scope from rifle to rifle. It may be the case someone has mounts for sale or alternative suggestions. Present options appear to be -

1 Leupold One Piece Fixed Mounting 49989. (I don't know if this is cut out on one side or the other or both, with my rifle being L/H Bolt some concerns. Are these held down to receiver by only two screws?).

2 Leupold Quick Detach Mounting 51344. (Rings given for this with a Leupold VIII 3.5-10x50 used in the selector are 49981 with ring extension but have to check against the Nikon. I figure this mount would be a sensible choice due to wide availability of mounts and rings for moving the scope from rifle to rifle).

http://www.leupold.com/hunting-and-...s-and-accessories/mounting-systems/qr-mounts/

3 Warne Mounts Part Numbers M898/828 or S898/828. (I think if I could find a set I would go with these mounts as the rings are available in both fixed and detachable versions to fit the same mounts, reports of return to zero are good. No email address on thier website so unsure who to approach because of export issue).

http://web.mac.com/warnemounts/Warne_Scope_Mounts/Chart_Mounting.html

4 Lynx One Piece Mounting 1P 1901. (Same concerns as the Leupold fixed mount here regarding any cutouts on the mount affecting the L/H Bolt)

5 Lynx Quick Detach Mounts 2P 1883. (Looking good nice wide range - but a bit more obscure than Leupold for following up with second ringsets and mounts - I have emailed Lynx for pricing and availability on Model 1900).

http://www.lynxoptics.com.au/lynxscopemounts/quickchange.html

(Lynx Reply - with my cover letter)

Dear Sir/Madam,
I am trying to source rings and mounts to fit a Nikon Monarch Side
Focus 6-24x50 telescopic sight to a HVA/Carl Gustav Model 1900 Left
Hand Bolt rifle - this model is now under production in Italy by
Antonio Zoli. Link to the scope model below. When you say by B-Square
on the website I take it these are not made in the US by B Square?

http://theopticzone.com/detail.aspx?ID=4224

I want to explore two options, option one a permanantly attached
system and option two a detachable system without loss of zero. A one
piece mount in either case would be preferable.

According to Lynx Listings the Lynx Standard seems like option one.
Lynx 1900 1 Piece - 1P 1901. ( I am unsure whether this mount would be
usable on a left hand bolt gun?)
Lynx 1900 2 Piece's - 2P 1883 or 2Pext 1884. ( I am unsure what ext
is?)

Option Two would seem to be Lynx Quick Change Bases.
Lynx 1900 2 Piece - 2P 7883 or 2Pext 7884. (sadly there appears to be
no one piece Quick Detach Base listed)

Could you please inform prices for the above items and also the
necessary rings to suit mounts please? I am also interested in if parts
are currently held in stock and some indication of timescale "if"
possible to ship to the UK.

Thanks in advance Chris

Yes these are made in the US by Bsquare. Suggest you contact them as we are
an Australian based company. (unfortunatly he does not seem to realise that the US has export restrictions on these items and Austrailia does not seem to!)

6 Antoinio Zoli One Piece Quick Detach Mounts. (Worth investigating I thought and have e-mailed Safari Arms to check availability and cost, possibly you have to specify when ordering a rifle - asked for information on set triggers as well).

http://www.safarifirearms.com.au/Rifles-Zoli-AZ1900Features.htm

(Safari Arms Response -)

Hi Chris,
I do believe the AZ1900 mounts will fit your Carl gustaf but the set trigger
I think is a little different,
We also carry the Lynx mounts and they are much cheaper alternative than the
AZ1900 mounts.
We can post to the UK but I am sure there is a importer of the Zoli firearms
in the UK, I am not aware of their name but I am sure if you contact Zoli
direct on [email protected] the can tell you who it is.
If you have no luck then we can assist you in your enquiry.
Cost of the Lynx mounts is $175 AUD plus $25 for post and for the Zoli it is
$280 for standard and an extra $85 for Quick Release and $25 for post.
I hope all this info helps.

Regards
Gary Georgiou

7 Conetrol Quick Detach Mounts. (Well known here and recommended before but I'm unsure - maybe too expensive for me when looking for second mounts and ringsets for the others rifles owned).

http://www.conetrol.com/

I've tried to find as many options as I can - hopefully members can give some advice on sourcing mounts or alternatives also accurising or what "they" would do themselves modification wise if given free hand with the HVA? I know it'll never be either a "proper" target or "proper" hunting rifle but a pleasant shooting hybrid would be nice.

Price and adaptability wise the Warnes mounts with quick detack rings using the knob rather than lever to tighten would be my first choice if I can find someone to export them to the UK. I am not finding an e-mail address on Warnes website to pursue this and confirm availability at the moment.

Hope this is of help to fellow members/HVA owners..

Regds Chris
 

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Trex,

I don't think you can go wrong with the Nikon. They are a lot of scope for the money. I have two Nikon 3-9x-40 hunting scopes and the light gathering and resolution are on par with my Leupold Vari-X III scopes. For the type of shooting you are doing, the 6x24 is probably a good choice. I was thinking about my experience over here with prairie dog hunting. A lot of fellows think they need the greatest range of magnification they can find for this type of shooting. But, what happens beyond about 10x or 12x is, you can't find the target easily and if it is a warm day the mirage can really deal you fits at the higher magnifications. But, for target shooting that is another story.

Again, for the money, the Warne bases are hard to beat. I believe Warne stopped selling directly 2-3 years ago, but http://www.brownells.com sells them. Although I haven't confirmed this, I believe the Weaver Grand Slam bases (numbers S46 and S55) are actually made by Warne as I've compared both and as far as I can tell, they are identical. Also, and advantage with the Warne bases is any type of Weaver slot ring will work, so you don't have to use just the Warne rings. I actually prefer the Leupold quick detach lever rings, but they all work quite well. I prefer the horizontal split rings versus the vertically split rings that Warne has.

Conetrols would be very nice, but as you point out, they are very expensive. I have no experience with the Lynx mounts, so can't comment on them.
 

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Trex,
How do you intend to keep track of the adjustments if moving from rifle to rifle? I assume each rifle will have a different setting. Will you paint markings or count from zero? I have Nikons and think they are outstanding for the price. Havenṫ tried removing, changing the settings, clicking them back where they were and remounting to see if one keeps zero though. And then the separate actions must mount the rings at the same distance apart and relative to your cheek weld. Might be in the neighborhood, but at 600 or more yards, thatś a big task? Not trying to burst your balloon, I just donṫ think itś practicable. Well, itś a bit of a bother at best.:confused:
Curious,
Dennis
 
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