Good to know. Thanks
I have spare No4 forends. Haven’t checked if any are Long Branch. I can lay them out and take a photo. See which wood match is closest to your stock.Check APEX gun parts as well as BRP corporation for hand guards & parts and bounce prices vs. Liberty Tree.
I have seen Long Branch No.4's with and without groove hand guard. I don't think a plain walnut one will crash the party here.. I'd leave the finish alone You need a new entire fore end which won't be cheap. Thank you for listing what you have into the rifle..$200 and what your parts to restore cost up to this date ...$400. You are very much in a money pit already which has been a subject flogged to many here about such "Projects". I wish you luck completing this rifle and hope you score some wood parts.
Just to note, a mint Long Branch fore end is $200 and I have one guy already interested in it. PM and I'll send photos. If you can find one cheaper...don't hesitate !
Can only agree with the sentiment, my No1 is the biggest 'bitsa' in the world I think there is a part from every manufacturer, there are 'millions of No1 rifles, but not another the same', it has a commercial value as a 'pretty looking shooter', it has little or no value as a collectible, but to me it will be the last one to leave me - it has value beyond measure. I sourced parts from almost every continent, I built it, I learned how it all went together.Sometimes it's not about the money, it's about the education along the way, and the preservation for the next person to enjoy. I know that's what it is for me.
I'm sure that many No.1 rifles picked up from no-man's land in WW1 or that arrived back in England from Dunkirk filthy and salt water soaked,
At the very least my friend I would invest in a chisel set. A nice chisel set isn't that expensive. Also a small file set to smooth up the areas you may need the chisels for. For the areas that the action doesn't fit the fore end I suggest getting and using inletting black. Before I knew about inletting black, I used fire engine red lipstick. it pretty much does the same but cheaper. This will show you where the action is touching the wood before it sits properly in the for end. You can take away small parts of the forend without gouging big chunks to make it fit. It will save you a lot of headache and score big on appearance with your final product.So while I've been waiting for parts I've been experimenting on the old chopped up forend and it has become horrendously clear that the tools I have are extremely inadequate. I would rather not have to go back with Acraglas because I buggered it up. What tools do I need to get to properly fit the action to the new forend?
Buy good chisels and then follow instructions like this to sharpen them.At the very least my friend I would invest in a chisel set. A nice chisel set isn't that expensive. Also a small file set to smooth up the areas you may need the chisels for. For the areas that the action doesn't fit the fore end I suggest getting and using inletting black. Before I knew about inletting black, I used fire engine red lipstick. it pretty much does the same but cheaper. This will show you where the action is touching the wood before it sits properly in the for end. You can take away small parts of the forend without gouging big chunks to make it fit. It will save you a lot of headache and score big on appearance with your final product.
Apply Inletting Black to the metal components of your rifle and place into the stock. Contact transfers color to the wood, indicating where relief is...www.midwayusa.com
Excellent!!!A little help to narrow down the shopping and reviewing. I made my living and used a variety. Rough work to trim, I used different ones.
For rough work I used older Buck Brothers. Those were OK but I abused them.
Everyday usage were Stanley professional line.
Fine trim and mortising are Record/Marples. The Records have long shanks for deep mortising on doors and pockets. You won't need those yet.
A set of Stanley's or Bucks should suit your needs. Supplement the set with a narrow one for fine work in corners and narrow places. 1/4 or narrower unless you get one in a larger set.
Here's a surprise for you. Grab a set of the cheap bottom line Stanley chisels which are paper/plastic wrapped. Black handles and thin steel. They have somewhat decent steel/edge retention and are easy to make razor sharp. I never trusted them 100% for striking, but they pare and scrape excellent.
I never brought them into the field, but they are in my chisel drawer at home. Every now and then I reach for one.
Are you planning on whittling your own rifle stock?What do you all think of the Shop Fox 12-piece chisel set? I don't know a whole lot about this topic, but most of the chisels look like they might be useful in a firearms setting. Would I be better off with something like this over a standard chisel set that I can get at Home Depot? Shop Fox 12 Pc. Carving Chisel Set in Aluminum Case