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Discussion Starter #1
I was at a gun show today and had my eyes out for a nice lee enfield. I came across this one and decided why not and bought it for $450. Not knowing a great deal on lee enfields I would like to know if this is a good one? It says "ShtLE V 1924" near trigger guard and came with what looks like a period correct sling. All the serial numbers seem to all match (bolt, reciever, stock, bayonet lug) and looks like it might be missing a front band and the circular piece of brass on the stock. The bore is in good condition. I did a little research and found out it might be a SMLE mk 5? From what I read it said there was only around 20000 produced as a trial rifle? Any info you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!



















 

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See my thread about the TMCA show. The No 1 Mk V there was $1,100.00, a few bills high IMHO. You got a steal.
The model you have was a large scale (20,000) trials rifle, with the modified backlight. Compare it to a No. 1 Mk III and you can see the difference easily.

Nice find for your first purchase!

The sling is USGI, model 1907, and worth at least $50.00, more if the makers marks are clear. Butt disks are often missing. I'd not bother with a reproduction replacement.
 

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Your Mk V is indeed missing the additional 'outer' barrel band that was to reinforce the nosecap/bayonet lug for bayonet fighting. The brass buttstock disc that is missing I believe was always missing as the example of the Mk V that I am looking at in the 'Lee Enfield' book written by Ian Skennerton shows it with the brass buttstock disc missing as well. From what I understand the Mk V was to be an improved or upgraded No 1 Mk III but ended up becoming to costly and was discontinued. ( Hopefully others with more knowledge on the Mk V will chime in here ) Looks like you have a pretty nice rifle and if it is all correct then I think you got a good deal at $ 450.00 for a Mk V .
 

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$450 for a MkV at that level of completeness is an excellent price. Looks like some minor work on the front end and she'll be set right.

Edit to add...Two of the less visible differences between the MkV & MkIII are the safety lever (s/b marked with a V or a III respectively), and the cutoff plate...on the MkV, it should not have a hole in it like the MkIII version does. These two parts are often wrong on restored MkVs.
 

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The US 1907 sling is not right for the rifle, but it should be attached differently than it is.

The piece without the metal loop on the end should be passed through the front swivel and closed up with the buckle on the bottom and the hooks on the buckle facing forward.

the metal loop on the second piece should have the end of the 'front loop' passed through it before the loop is closed. The finished side of the leather should face the rifle. The hook is then passed through the rear swivel (from front to back), and brought around and hooked where convenient in the available holes on either sling loop. The hooks on the buckle on this piece should also be on the 'bottom', and facing forward.

There should be two keepers (small leather loops) on your sling, but they appear to be missing. Both keepers should go around the 'front loop', one placed to "tighten" the bend in the sling at the front swivel and the other to do the same near the rear loop.

By the way, you got a GREAT one for the price! :thumbsup:
 

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Great price on this one.It appears to be missing the nosecap screw between the bayonet lug and the pilling swivel ( and front band mount).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies! Just looked over the gun again and the safety lever is marked with a V and the cutoff plate does not have a hole in it. Does anyone know where I can get a nose cap screw and the front outer band?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I also have another question. Im not sure if the bolt is working properly. I think the problem is that the trigger sear is sticking too far up and is catching the lug on the bolt itself. I have to pull the trigger to lower the trigger sear in order to get close the bolt. Does anyone know why the trigger sear is sticking too far up? I just took the trigger assembly out and everything seems to be in place. Note that the lug is before the hammer mechanism. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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As far as Enfield parts, I have had great luck with Springfield Sporters.
 

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Not sure what you mean by "hammer mechanism" as the Lee Enfield is striker fired...no hammer. Also...the L-E is **** on closing, so if you want to close the bolt without cocking the rifle, you have to hold the trigger down.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
sorry wrong terminology. I understand it cocks the bolt while closing the bolt. The problem is that the trigger sear is catching the lug on the bolt before it reaches the notches in the striker fire mechanism. It looks to me as if the trigger sear is sticking up too high and is not bypassing that lug which is causing it to get caught. I know its confusing but I thought it was worth a try.
 

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I'm going to need to get by one of my rifles, so I can picture what's going on. Nothing unusual, but I'm thoroughly confused here. I can't think of what would catch on the sear before the full bent on the cocking piece.
 

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I also have another question. Im not sure if the bolt is working properly. I think the problem is that the trigger sear is sticking too far up and is catching the lug on the bolt itself. I have to pull the trigger to lower the trigger sear in order to get close the bolt. Does anyone know why the trigger sear is sticking too far up? I just took the trigger assembly out and everything seems to be in place. Note that the lug is before the hammer mechanism. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Is the trigger assembly placed correctly, in relation to the sear? Does the trigger have full range of movement?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah I have looked all over the internet on how the trigger assembly is supposed to be assembled. Everything looks like it is right but I don't understand why the trigger sear is catching on the lug(piece of metal sticking off bolt) before it reaches the striker mechanism, which cocks the bolt. The bolt will not go forward unless I pull the trigger, then after that it will catch on the piece that cocks the gun. Its complicated to explain but I will try and take some photos of it tomorrow to show what is going on.
 

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Ah okay...the bolt's left locking lug...

I took the trigger guard/trigger off of one altogether and still couldn't get the sear to rise up into the bolt channel enough to contact the locking lug. The top surface of the sear contacts the body between it's mounting lugs and is prevented from going any higher. Since I don't believe it's possible to install the sear in upside down and still be able to reassemble everything (never tried it anyway), that would seem to leave some sort of wear/modification to the sear or body that's allowing the sear to rise up too high if there's something amiss in the relationship between the trigger and the sear (such as a missing bushing). If that's the case, plus the bushing is missing, it would then also seem that the wood around the forward trigger guard screw has been crushed down to the point that it would need to be addressed as well as the missing bushing.

Hope I haven't further confused the issue. Pictures would certainly be of interest.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for your reply! I will upload pictures this afternoon of my trigger assembly and maybe that will explain what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok here are some pictures I have taken:

Here you can see the trigger sear sticking up


Here you can see how the trigger assembly is assembled:

Here you can see the problem. The sear is catching this lug every time I try and push the bolt forward. This time I noticed my trigger sear looks like it is abnormally shaped and is curving upwards. This might be the problem but I don't know what could cause this. Does it look like to you that the sear looks weird?
 
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