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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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Quite sometime ago I undertook the almost total restoration of a Swede M96. Very kind members of this forum give me their insight, their experience, and in a couple cases even spare parts that they were willing to donate to my cause. I had originally wanted to reinstall the front and rear sights whad been completely removed, then bed the Swede into an M96 stock with the appropriate hardware. This was not at all cost effective, and it was suggested that I sell the original rifle and purchase an all matching correct specimen, which in all honesty I may as well have done. The receiver, bolt group, magazine follower/ spring and trigger group are all that’s left of what I started with, and even then none of them match.

The cost of my project has been offset tremendously by selling parts that I no longer needed, such as the synthetic stock that the sporterized Swede came on. Again, forum members were a huge help there as well. :) Through much trial and error, I obtained what I needed to complete the rifle through Numrich gun parts Corp, this forum, and countless private sellers.

This labor of love, (as well as the restoration of a sporterized Norinco SKS) were what kept me busy throughout the majority of our Covid lockdown. It’s not the prettiest, but it is an M38 pattern Swedish Mauser! Skinner LoPro rear peep sights fit snuggly into the holes tapped (by bubba) into the receiver, and it makes for a gorgeous sight picture with the front sight hood. I intend for it to be my back up iron sight after I install a Bad Ace scout mount and LER scope, but I have also tracked down an M38 rear sight from a seller all the way in Australia just so it will be totally finished.

It is not bad looking for a Frankenstein job. Have a peek. :)

Edit: I got the rear sight installed and replaced the generic flash hider with the Swiss muzzle brake that came so highly recommended. Finally seeing a range day in the near future.
 

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Ditch the aftermarket flash suppressor, those are very tacky IMHO. Have to have a muzzle attachment of some sort, get a steel aftermarket cap, or talk to Leon about his Swiss setup. Looks much nicer. Everything else is slick. I like the brass disk, tell us about that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I like the brass disk, tell us about that.
The disk was a custom job done by a fellow based in Poland! You can submit a request for what you’d like on it, and I even sent a photo of scratch paper with the layout I wanted too. He had several disk materials and variations of text available, I almost went with a steel or aluminum disk but it didn’t feel right. His product can be found on eBay, his seller name is fudosan1.

A custom disk seemed more appropriate since no traditional stock disk info would be tangible for a fresh build unless I got an armorer to do it and punch in the grade. I also have an aluminum M38 stock chart that would need affixed with tiny finishing nails, but I haven't worked up the courage to do it yet.
 

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Duck, is that where the synthetic stock originally came from? "such as the synthetic stock that the sporterized Swede came on". What a journey. By the way, the synthetic now rests on a really nice little carbine with all matching numbers and a neat para cord sling that a guy over on 24hourcampfire sells. Well except for the needed stock and components that, at my age, I don't see happening when the price is considered. It is for shooting and giggling anyhow.

Anyhow, that turned out beautifully. Sometimes those projects are the ones that a person can be most proud of. (y)
 

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Ditch the aftermarket flash suppressor, those are very tacky IMHO. Have to have a muzzle attachment of some sort, get a steel aftermarket cap, or talk to Leon about his Swiss setup. Looks much nicer. Everything else is slick. I like the brass disk, tell us about that.
You can use this: K31 THREADED MUZZLE BRAKE | swissproductsusa
Just screw it on hand tight. Recoil reduction is phenomenal, in fact more effective on the M96 or M38 than on the intended Swiss K31. This is superbly made in the USA, not Chinese crap. You can also get a thread cover for a lot less here too: K31 THREAD PROTECTOR | swissproductsusa
 

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Is that muzzle brake threaded on the tapered end ? Should not be hard to make on a lathe & drill press .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is that muzzle brake threaded on the tapered end ? Should not be hard to make on a lathe & drill press .
Swede it threads right on like the nylon or steel caps do. Easily found on eBay and a couple other sites.

break

Leon that K31 muzzle brake looks much meaner and more efficient than the one I have affixed!
 

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...Leon that K31 muzzle brake looks much meaner and more efficient than the one I have affixed!
You have a flash suppressor, which the Swedes never used. The Swiss Products screw-on muzzle brake sort of works the same way as the muzzle brake on the AG42b Ljungman. It was precisely calibrated for the Swiss K31 and its GP11 7.5x55 cartridge. As I mentioned, the Swiss Products muzzle brake is extremely effective on the M96 and M38, and my theory is this is due to the higher pressure of the gas leaving the muzzle. This is because typical Swedish ammunition and reloads use slower powder and therefore the delayed pressure peak occurs closer to the muzzle. Because the Swiss Products brake is designed for a 7.5 mm bullet, the extra clearance with a 6.5 mm bullet handles the higher pressure perfectly and extracts additional counter recoil energy.

Another interesting, and favorable feature of the Swiss Products muzzle brake is that it does not concentrate a pressure wave like most other baffle muzzle brakes. Your neighbors on the range firing line will greatly appreciate that.
 

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Worth mentioning: since your M96 is missing its standard tangent sight, and since you already have a turned-down bolt handle, it is easy to mount a scope without making any permanent changes, i.e. drilling and tapping more holes in the receiver.

The BadAce Gen 2 M96/M38 NDT (No drill and tap) mount is absolutely solid and does not induce wandering zero. Since your tangent sight is missing, installation will take less than a minute.

Pics in the thread show my 1918 CG M96 with the Swiss Products muzzle brake too.
 

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Worth mentioning: since your M96 is missing its standard tangent sight, and since you already have a turned-down bolt handle, it is easy to mount a scope without making any permanent changes, i.e. drilling and tapping more holes in the receiver.

The BadAce Gen 2 M96/M38 NDT (No drill and tap) mount is absolutely solid and does not induce wandering zero. Since your tangent sight is missing, installation will take less than a minute.

Pics in the thread show my 1918 CG M96 with the Swiss Products muzzle brake too.
Beware, Leon will get you addicted. Be careful those things are addictive. I have them on Swedes only I have the scout mounts. Not much luck with the bent bolt route so far. That is finding one that is. If I find one will it headspace correctly etc.??? and so on. I also have them on a couple of Mosin Nagants and they are pretty special. I just received another one and I find they are being shipped from stateside now.
 

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Beware, Leon will get you addicted. Be careful those things are addictive. I have them on Swedes only I have the scout mounts. Not much luck with the bent bolt route so far. That is finding one that is. If I find one will it headspace correctly etc.??? and so on. I also have them on a couple of Mosin Nagants and they are pretty special. I just received another one and I find they are being shipped from stateside now.
Addictive indeed! These BadAce NDT mounts are truly addictive because they keep our beloved milsurp rifles in the game when old eyes can no longer get the groups we expect with the original iron sights.

Re bent bolt: as I pointed out in my "Faux M41" thread, there is a reasonable chance that a randomly selected M38 bolt will headspace within tolerance. The alternative is to mail your straight bolt to "Boltman" for bending. He can contour the bend so you don't need to remove any wood from the stock.

Disclaimer: there is no relation between BadAce and me other than my being a very happy user of these mounts. I am personally involved, however, with the BadAce Finn M39 mount. I came up with an idea to make a better and more secure attachment, and BadAce engineered it into reality. Needless to say, seeing one of my ideas actually turn out to be not only workable, but excellent, is a real uplift. That is why I like to tell folks about BadAce NDT scope mounts.
 

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Addictive indeed! These BadAce NDT mounts are truly addictive because they keep our beloved milsurp rifles in the game when old eyes can no longer get the groups we expect with the original iron sights.

Re bent bolt: as I pointed out in my "Faux M41" thread, there is a reasonable chance that a randomly selected M38 bolt will headspace within tolerance. The alternative is to mail your straight bolt to "Boltman" for bending. He can contour the bend so you don't need to remove any wood from the stock.

Disclaimer: there is no relation between BadAce and me other than my being a very happy user of these mounts. I am personally involved, however, with the BadAce Finn M39 mount. I came up with an idea to make a better and more secure attachment, and BadAce engineered it into reality. Needless to say, seeing one of my ideas actually turn out to be not only workable, but excellent, is a real uplift. That is why I like to tell folks about BadAce NDT scope mounts.
(y) You are correct. I sent a PM to impose on you once again. In the meantime possibly we can help Duck dispose of more of his money. I am getting a photo of my various Swede carbines to post including his former stock.
 
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(y) You are correct. I sent a PM to impose on you once again. In the meantime possibly we can help Duck dispose of more of his money. I am getting a photo of my various Swede carbines to post including his former stock.
PM answered. Re disposing of money; the Pelosicrats are going to make our money worthless anyhow, so might as well get while it's still getable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
(y) You are correct. I sent a PM to impose on you once again. In the meantime possibly we can help Duck dispose of more of his money. I am getting a photo of my various Swede carbines to post including his former stock.
Looking forward to seeing some more of those carbines! If I had half a brain I might have just made a carbine out of the sporter instead of making this happen, but I’m very pleased altogether. :)

Setting my sights on a Mosin next, that and a CMP Garand. Arisaka would be neat, as would the Lee Enfield and 1903. So many guns and so little time.
 

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I don't know if you have already stated this and I missed it, but your rifle appears to be one of the rifles made by Kimber using Swedish mauser actions. The color / finish of the receiver alerted me. Kimber sold them in 6.5 x 55, .22-250, 7mm-08 and .308 (maybe other calibers). I have one in 7mm-08 and one in .22-250. They used original Swedish barrels on the ones in 6.5 x 55 and Douglas barrels on the other calibers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't know if you have already stated this and I missed it, but your rifle appears to be one of the rifles made by Kimber using Swedish mauser actions. The color / finish of the receiver alerted me. Kimber sold them in 6.5 x 55, .22-250, 7mm-08 and .308 (maybe other calibers). I have one in 7mm-08 and one in .22-250. They used original Swedish barrels on the ones in 6.5 x 55 and Douglas barrels on the other calibers.
I did have a couple others suggest that. The original barrel was blued and not stamped with anything other than 6.5x55, armorer markings, and was cut a few inches short. No front or rear sights, and the rear sight set screw was offset about a quarter turn from centerline. I attempted (poorly) to remove the same style finish from the trigger guard assembly and ended up replacing it altogether.
 

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