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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need help

I was shooting my K98 today and after my last shot, I could not get the bolt open. I can lift the bolt handle just about all the way up, but not quite all the way, so I can't pull the bolt back to remove the spent cartridge. Also worth noting: it is a bit more difficult to move the bolt handle (up to the point at which it sticks) than usual.

I removed the floorplate and cannot see anything that would interfere with the bolt. I tried with quite a bit of force to pry the bolt handle up and it still won't open all the way. Any ideas?
 

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Insert a wood dowell cut into three sections into the barrel and tap the spent case rearward then try to lift the handle, rinse and repeat...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that didn't work, and now I have a wooden dowel stuck in the casing, so I can't get it out of the barrel. I'm starting to worry a little bit
 

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Remove the stock and place barrelled action is a hot fire. The dowel will turn to ash and the brass case will melt. Then remove the bolt.
 

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Oil

Tim,
Get some Kroil or other penetrating oil down there before you do anything else.
If this is a matter of the casing just being hard to extract, this can help prevent you from ripping the rim off.
Since you'd been firing this before it stuck, we can pretty well rule out an incorrectly assembled bolt.
By any chance, is this a steel case?

To the best of my knowledge, whacking the holy bejeezus out of the bolt after you'd allow the oil to penetrate cannot hurt anything, as the case is the weakest link.
When I discovered my Mosin Nagant M44 didn't like the Czech silvertip steel case, I used a wooden block I had handy to eject the empty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, I'll try the penetrating oil.

Also, the casing is steel, not brass

Thanks for the help thus far guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
got it. I drenched the bore and chamber with penetrating oil and then proceeded to whack the bolt handle with a rubber mallet. I can see now why it would have been better to have a brass casing stuck as opposed to the steel casing that I had stuck.


Thanks for the help everyone
 

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I've always had trouble with steel case ammo out of my K98 so I just don't use it. Never had a problem with brass case ammo sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I see no damage, except on the rim of the casing which is now burred and out of shape in one spot. I would assume that if it were a brass case, this is the point where the casing rim would have sheered
 

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Except that brass will not stick to begin with....
 

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I had that problem a while back. Was testing out my almost matching (bolt MM) Yugo K98k for the first time using 1975 Romanian ammo. Damn, all first 5 shots were dead on in a bullseye 1 inch in diameter!! Then the horror! reloaded with stripper clip then chambered the 6th round. Fired and again dead on! But now I couldn't get the bolt to open! I knew then and there the casing most likely ruptured. I hadn't checked the headspace on my Yugo K98k too. So I was thinking the case probably ruptured either due to bad headspacing or just because the casing was just weak. I leaned towards the casing having the defect since it was a steel casing.

I whacked the bolt open about 4 times with my right hand and it opened. Sure enough the casing was cracked lengthwise. Primer/rim area was intact, so I knew right away it wasn't a bad headspacing that caused the rupture. The casing of that cartridge was just bad. Then a few weeks later I went to the desert and used the same ammo in one of my RC k98 rifles and sure enough it did it again! Whacked it open and again a ruptured casing lengthwise.

Here's a pic of the casing that ruptured in my Yugo K98k. The casing that ruptured in my RC I threw away since it was exactly like the one in the pic below.

 

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What's really fun is if you discover your semi-auto doesn't like steel cased ammo.
I've not had it happen, but it can rip the rim right off.

If you have other mausers, you can try the steel cased in it, even if it's a K98.
It will always be a tad bit more stiff to eject than brass, but as long as you're not hammering on the bolt, you'll be fine.

I was running about a hunnert' rounds of Romie' through my nephew's 24/47 just the other day, in fact.
 

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The reason it may stick in the chamber is there might be some old dryed cosmoline in the pits in the chamber. Soak it real good with solvent, and brush it real good with a bronze brush. This was a common problem with Mosin/Nagant rifles a few years back. The steel case would heat up and 'weld' itself to the chamber, and the bolt would require a lot of force to let loose. I had this problem with the first Mosin I bought. Now as a matter of course I just make sure to clean out he chambers really good on all the new surplus rifles I buy and I haven't had this problem...
 
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