"...Any suggestions as to good stain..."
Nope.
Gary
Nope.
Gary
Just like the old days.
I was at the Billings MT gun show last week and spotted a pile of mildly interesting 91/30's on one fellows table. I saw that one of them had the stock "painted" with what looked like a latex stain. Closer inspection revealed it to be not a 91/30 but a M-91, 1941 Tikka rework. Matching where it should be and with a perfect bore. The stock had been hit with 60 grit: Just enough to leave deep scratches before getting hit with the Milky brown paint. A yellow sticky on the butt said "Broken Extractor. $50" so I took it home. The receiver had the imperial crest on the top flat and the date on the belly of the tang was 1894.
I now have the daunting challenge of getting the goo off and the correct finish on, but, darn! It was nice to see a fifty-dollar Finn again! (Painted or not!) Any suggestions as to good stain for replicating the Finn "Brown"?? ~Andy
I now have the daunting challenge of getting the goo off and the correct finish on, but, darn! It was nice to see a fifty-dollar Finn again! (Painted or not!) Any suggestions as to good stain for replicating the Finn "Brown"?? ~Andy
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Man, I missed out on the good old days....I have found a good deal or two here and there, but no $50.00 Finn rifles...
Pahtu.
Pahtu.
No recommendations for a stain, but you should just rub the stock down with a stripper of some kind, whether denatured alcohol or mineral spirits, or even lacquer thinner, then once the atrocious paint is gone, lightly shellac the stock for preservation.
I'm glad you were able to save (mostly) this Finn MN. I wish I could find one for $50...
I'm glad you were able to save (mostly) this Finn MN. I wish I could find one for $50...
A pine tar finish will be as close to correct as you'll probably be able to get. I saved a couple of Bubbafied Finns that way and they came out pretty good.
What is it with Bubba and that nasty Poly finish?
What is it with Bubba and that nasty Poly finish?
In the past I've used 5% nitric acid /water as a stain followed by a shellac finish but my supply of "agua fortis" has dried up and it's no longer commercially available. Too bad! It was tops for sugar woods. What is the "pine tar" finish? Can anybody post a link to an appropriate thread? I'm glad that this fool who sanded this rifle didn't decide to mess with the metal or the fittings; all of which are in fine shape. It will never be "original" but at least it won't be an embarrassment.
I am old enough to remember idiotic prices on Finns. My first Model 39 was a nicely marked SAKO that ran me $40. (still have it) I bought a pristine Sneak for $89 about 8-9 years ago. Those days are gone! My best 91 came from a gunshop where it was priced at $100 and was positively festooned with wonderful Imperial crests and cartouches -along with the [SA] we all love. Had the original barrel and wood, 1893 stamped on the barrel. The underside of the receiver had more inspector stamps per square inch than any other rifle I'd seen. I gave it to a collector buddy as a birthday present.
Yeah, he is a very good friend!~Andy
I am old enough to remember idiotic prices on Finns. My first Model 39 was a nicely marked SAKO that ran me $40. (still have it) I bought a pristine Sneak for $89 about 8-9 years ago. Those days are gone! My best 91 came from a gunshop where it was priced at $100 and was positively festooned with wonderful Imperial crests and cartouches -along with the [SA] we all love. Had the original barrel and wood, 1893 stamped on the barrel. The underside of the receiver had more inspector stamps per square inch than any other rifle I'd seen. I gave it to a collector buddy as a birthday present.
Yeah, he is a very good friend!~Andy
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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