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It's not going to last, especially on the bolt handle. As you clean the bolt you'll be rubbing the cold blue off as well. Cold blue is for touch-up work. Rust blueing is a much more durable option for large parts or whole arms that a fellow can do easily without the investment of a hot salt blueing setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's not going to last, especially on the bolt handle. As you clean the bolt you'll be rubbing the cold blue off as well. Cold blue is for touch-up work. Rust blueing is a much more durable option for large parts or whole arms that a fellow can do easily without the investment of a hot salt blueing setup.
Rust bluing?

I know about hot blue but not rust blue. Except that blue is a form of rust.


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I use "cold blue mixes " to Rust blue many things and its a tough finish....if you let it rust and then card off rust.
About 6 or 7 applications rusting carding off after I get complet rust coverage...
It's in the eye and practice when to stop the rust and card....and how many rust coats to make a solid look.
 

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Cold blue can be fairly durable if you do it right. Clean the metal completely (I use brake cleaner followed by alcohol), heat the metal, then swab on the blue, applying several coats over and over again, never letting the blue dry. Let it sit and work for several minutes, then rub down with oiled steel wool and wipe down with an oily cloth. It's not as permanent as hot salt blue, and will wear and fade over time, but it's a million times easier to do.
 

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Cold blues merely plate the steel with copper and then blacken that copper coating. Very thin and wears rapidly. Prone to after-rusting as well. A proper rust blue will be relatively deep and tough. It easy to apply at home and can be done in a few hours, most of that spent waiting for rust to form. The result is a beautiful blue that will last a lifetime.

www.rustblue.com

Here is a good video on the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

Bob
 

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Cold blue is a junk finish. I don't care what "technique" a guy comes up with or saw on Youtube. It is what it is and it ain't rust or hot salt blueing. Good for buggered screws, that's about it. To each his own.
There's no voodoo involved with rust blueing. Strip the existing blue, Degrease, wipe on, let rust, card off. The metal tells you when it's done,,,it stops rusting.
 

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What a monstrously bad decision.
 

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"Monstrously"? Hyperbole?
I think refinishing your military rifle parts (especially with cold blue) is a very bad idea for a wealth of reasons but instead of dropping the hammer on you in a harsh or lengthy diatribe I posted my objection in a lighthearted manner in the spirit of your forum "handle." I'm surprised you didn't get it.
 

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Rusting the Finnish, carding about 6 or 7 times....
gives you a very tuff long lasting finish..
exception high nickel steel....

Chasing the degreaser with blue while it's still wet with degreaser gives a very even, coverage without streaks ....
"weather you believe it or not".....cause I didn't till I developed this technique years back.....

the guns covered by this Method are still being used, still look good, hunted with by these owners....YEARS!
Friends.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think refinishing your military rifle parts (especially with cold blue) is a very bad idea for a wealth of reasons but instead of dropping the hammer on you in a harsh or lengthy diatribe I posted my objection in a lighthearted manner in the spirit of your forum "handle." I'm surprised you didn't get it.
Richard in NY - well you told me so. Just a little use and the blue shows little areas of rubbing off.

Sigh.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think refinishing your military rifle parts (especially with cold blue) is a very bad idea for a wealth of reasons but instead of dropping the hammer on you in a harsh or lengthy diatribe I posted my objection in a lighthearted manner in the spirit of your forum "handle." I'm surprised you didn't get it.
Richard in NY - well you told me so. Just a little use and the blue shows little areas of rubbing off.

Sigh.


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The stock on the 98k is more bothersome than a splotchy bolt. The poor thing is sanded down to shovel handle width. I hope you didn't do that as well. Cold blue and sandpaper usually go hand in hand though...
 

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And you did this, why? as a rule, yes there are exceptions, but as a rule, the bolt should be in the white.
 
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