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Junt found an all-matching minty K98 with sling!

4K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  pzjgr 
#1 ·
Got this in a deal last week along with a pile of other WW2 bring-back vet's goodies. I knew there was a "german rifle" involved so I came right over to meet the guy. Jaw dropped when i saw this unmolested k98 matcher. Thank god the original owner kept it oiled in a gun bag in a decent storage area.

I'm still in awe myself, so i'll just post some pics.


P.S. When i opened the bolt on initial inspection, a round popped out. Had to clear the remaining 3 in it. Let that be a lesson, a firearm sitting in a closet for 50+ years could still have live ammo in it. According to the seller (original owner's nephew), he kept it around for self-protection.
 
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#6 ·
Thanks guys. I'm somewhat hesitant about trying to disassemble it as the front band is REALLY on there and won't move. Don't want to scrathc untouched original wood finish.

And yes, the 4 rounds I ejected were indeed original WW2 8mm mauser.
 
#11 ·
Thanks mate! As for other stuff, there is a DD Police helmet with 25 year service medal tucked into the liner, Heer pith helmet, HJ Leader parade brocade belt and buckle, NSDAP leader buckle, Heer buckle, SA Dagger, assorted armbands and pins, WW1 iron cross 2nd class and 1914 hussar picture tobacco pipe. Basically a grab bag of bringbacks I have been dreaming about finding lol.
 
#12 ·
Just out of curiosity, other than by using the 'backwards' sling as an indicator (and it could easily have been put on that way by the same guy thay got the Frosch wrong), how could you tell the rear band is reversed just from the pictures in this thread?
 
#14 ·
The sling loop on the band should always be on the left side (side opposite of the bolt)...so it being on the right definitely means the band was put on backwards...

Sometimes they are put on right that way, but upside down...one I just picked up was this way, easy to tell, as the s/n is upside down...
 
#15 ·
A K98 that I recently picked up was quite similar. What I did was wrap a rag around the wood just under the band and then carefully clamped down on the spring with a pair a pliers. From there I just got a piece of wood to put between the band and the stock and lightly tapped the band off with a brass hammer. If you're careful you won't damage anything.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I recently used the method described by student of history to successfully remove a stuck front band on a Yugo m24/47 Mauser

Be careful, thats a beautiful rifle!

EDIT: I agree with MauserGuy85's comment below, I did not use pliers but used a clamp with rubber on the ends and a rag around the whole rifle.
 
#17 ·
Clamping down band springs with pliers???? No mention of either a cloth or wood piece between the spring and plier? I can practically guarentee that you will scratch something or dig into the wood with the plier grooves.

If your going to be clamping down on Band springs, I highly recommend using a REAL clamp like this. http://homedepot.digby.com/homedepot/product/detail.do?itemId=202214072&categoryId=&path=

Pliers were not designed to be the tool for this kind of job. Sure, you can do it just like you can use a right sized flathead screwdriver to remove a Phillips screw, but it's not the tool for the job. The above linked clamps have very soft synthetic pads that won't harm wood or metal and the pad's size guarentees that the clamping area is sufficiently spread out as to not dent or indent the wood on the opposite side of the band spring.
 
#19 ·
Clamping down band springs with pliers???? No mention of either a cloth or wood piece between the spring and plier? I can practically guarentee that you will scratch something or dig into the wood with the plier grooves.

If your going to be clamping down on Band springs, I highly recommend using a REAL clamp like this. http://homedepot.digby.com/homedepot/product/detail.do?itemId=202214072&categoryId=&path=

Pliers were not designed to be the tool for this kind of job. Sure, you can do it just like you can use a right sized flathead screwdriver to remove a Phillips screw, but it's not the tool for the job. The above linked clamps have very soft synthetic pads that won't harm wood or metal and the pad's size guarentees that the clamping area is sufficiently spread out as to not dent or indent the wood on the opposite side of the band spring.
He mentions using a rag. I have used that technique as well but also cover the "teeth" of the channel locks with plenty of electrical tape.
 
#21 ·
Or, you can go to Harbor Freight and for about $4.00 pick up a set of sheet metal vice grips. The plastic tabs are probably there as a shipping item but, they are on every pair Ive seen there. They work great for not marring the wood or the metal.

 
#24 ·
Or, you can go to Harbor Freight and for about $4.00 pick up a set of sheet metal vice grips. The plastic tabs are probably there as a shipping item but, they are on every pair Ive seen there. They work great for not marring the wood or the metal.

View attachment 534522
They also have wood clamps with rubber pads. That is what I use, along with a brass punch to remove reticent front bands.
 
#22 ·
Gotta confess I used channel locks on my CE41 French capture.The wood damage was previous to my getting it.I used a large pair and cushioned the wood and band spring well.Opened them so they would put pressure straight down on the work area then used a rubber mallet with light taps and grabbing band with fingers and pulling in between taps.Worked well and did no further damage to the wood.
 
#23 ·
Thanks for the advice guys.

I won't be using pliers or anything of that sort. been there, done that, ruined a Remington before when i was younger. I'll just wait for a dry day and turn on the dehumidifier, which usually shrinks the wood just a fraction of a millimeter and give me space to slide it off with some oil. It has worked before on a Gewehr.

if that fails, I'll leave it for the next owner to mess with.
 
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