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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have a good friend that’s had this Johnson M1941 for several years... he said he traded a Colt SAA for it. Hmmmm that seems like a very good deal for my friend, not so much for the other guy.

Anyways, I typically would never restore a milsurp... however, I believe that the collectors on this forum would agree with me that this meets the criteria. My friend received this rifle with the cracks and high gloss on the original stock. The restoration will of course be the on the stock and not the metal parts (metal is in great condition).

An unfinished replacement stock was purchased (He said it’s original) and he also wants me to stain it and put a finish on it. For those that know, boiled linseed oil? I’ve never refinished one of these stock and not quite sure what the finish is. I told him that he should be looking for an original replacement stock... I will complete this restoration and maybe he can use the rifle with my stock and keep the original stored.

Also, the barrel on this one doesn’t seem to want to come out. It’s almost like it’s jammed or corroded in place. The latch on the bottom of the forearm wasn’t easy to disengage because all of the corrosion. I wanted to clean it a bit before giving it back to him (Do I really have to?? Grin)

It’s a very clean and nice weapon! I would love to own it but a tad out of my budget!
 

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The unfinished replacement stock is probably a winfield sporter stock. I do not belive there where ever any USGI replacement stocks made.
If the stock on the rifle now were mine I would send it off to be stripped and professionally repaired. Original 1941 Johnson stocks are unobtainable
maybe,, it appears to be a similar stock vs a sporter (Weren't they usually done with a monte carlo type stock?)

if you want to a military type repair, then strip the shine off, and glass in the cracks and hold with a brass pin or 2,


IIRC the original finish was the same as Garand or 1903 stocks, walnut dipped in heated tunq or linseed oil
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The unfinished replacement stock is probably a winfield sporter stock. I do not belive there where ever any USGI replacement stocks made.
If the stock on the rifle now were mine I would send it off to be stripped and professionally repaired. Original 1941 Johnson stocks are unobtainable
I probably would too... the owner doesn’t want to spend that kind of money on the stock. I’ve already fitted the repro stock to the rifle.

I will stain and do a boiled linseed oil finish and return. I will try and repair the other stock. It will be better than it is right now. Lots of cracks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does anybody know how to remove the mainspring tube from the butt stock? I’ve switched all parts from the cracked original stock to the repro stock. This tube has me stumped! Last part and the most problem part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmmm I don’t see any screws holding the metal key in place... I would’ve assumed the rod would be removed from the back of the buttplate. Almost looked like the key and the rod are one piece. Frustrated with this last piece. Thanks anyways...
 

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I probably would too... the owner doesn’t want to spend that kind of money on the stock. I’ve already fitted the repro stock to the rifle.

I will stain and do a boiled linseed oil finish and return. I will try and repair the other stock. It will be better than it is right now. Lots of cracks
My recommendation is to skip the stain and use raw linseed oil. Both raw tung and linseed are correct, as pointed out above. They’re both natural “drying oils” that harden and darken with age, but linseed tends to darken faster.

BLO is a mixture of petroleum distillates, linseed oil, and metal catalysts that accelerate the drying (cross-linking) process. It’s not correct and I don’t care for the sheen (good for garden tools though). It hardens faster but it won’t develop the colors like the slow aged raw product.

You probably know this, but if you use BLO, don’t leave a pile of rags sitting in the open air, they can spontaneously combust (the catalysts accelerate the linseed oil oxidation process and the petroleum distillates are a great fuel with a low flash point).
 

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its been a long time since I have had mine apart but I know for sure comes out through front of stock. As I remember there is a square key in the stock that is held in place by two screws. One on each side of stock. This key is what holds the tube in place
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
its been a long time since I have had mine apart but I know for sure comes out through front of stock. As I remember there is a square key in the stock that is held in place by two screws. One on each side of stock. This key is what holds the tube in place

I think you’re talking about those 2 sets of stock support bars that are held in place by two screws. Those don’t have anything to do with the mainspring tube. I think if I use a threaded rod and screw it into the mainspring tube (At the butt plate area).. then gently tap it out towards the front of the stock... it think that will work. There’s nothing I see that’s holding it in place.

This is all there is... no screws... no key. A very weird design on this rifle.
 

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see circled area? This is were the square key holds tube in place. If you start pounding without removing key as I suggested you are going to damage parts that are next to impossible to replace
Once key is removed ,screw the cap back on a turn or two. Tap on it with hammer,once the tubes moves remove cap and should be able to pull it the rest of way out
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yup... that key has already been taken out. I took everything off the original cracked stock. I guess there’s nothing else holding it. I’m gonna let the owner remove the tube. I just don’t want to be responsible for it... thank you for clearing up my issue. It now makes sense!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
did you try tapping on the cap as I suggested?
Yes sir... not moving. I think I’m gonna start to repair this stock. I have a few brass pins. I will try to remove after I repair the cracked stock. As you’ve said... there’s no spare parts. It’s not my gun and I don’t want to force anything for obvious reasons.

Thank you sir for taking the time and guiding me through this process. I will let you know how this turns out. Thanks again, D
 

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My recommendation is to skip the stain and use raw linseed oil. Both raw tung and linseed are correct, as pointed out above. They’re both natural “drying oils” that harden and darken with age, but linseed tends to darken faster.

BLO is a mixture of petroleum distillates, linseed oil, and metal catalysts that accelerate the drying (cross-linking) process. It’s not correct and I don’t care for the sheen (good for garden tools though). It hardens faster but it won’t develop the colors like the slow aged raw product.

You probably know this, but if you use BLO, don’t leave a pile of rags sitting in the open air, they can spontaneously combust (the catalysts accelerate the linseed oil oxidation process and the petroleum distillates are a great fuel with a low flash point).
This.

Why on earth would you stain it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Just a last update...

No, I didn’t stain the stock. I stripped the high gloss and orange-ish stain that was on it from the previous owner, repaired multiple cracks and breaks, and finally used an oil finish. The stock really has beautiful wood grain under all that stain, it was a shame to cover it all up.

All in all I think it turned out very well... I think I will try to purchase it from him when he’s ready to sell.

I decided to use the original stock and not the repro one... too much cutting to fit right. Thanks all for the advice.
 

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