[8mmman]

I've had three over the years the one I have at the momet is number K7731 and was in near new condition when I got it and is a very good shooter too.

 

[bill0167]

I have a Type I that I recently purchased thru Gun Broker, Serial No. I3743 in VG+ condition with no rust, excellent shiny bore and short stock with only a few dings. Lots of case hardening still visible on the bolt. It needs a good cleaning as it appears to have been stored for a very long time in a place that was neither damp nor excessively hot. I haven't taken it apart as yet so I have no idea what markings I may find. The only visible marking is the serial number on the barrel

 

[rockisle1903]

I just picked up what would probably one of the highest serial numbers possible: L 9976 assuming no more letter blocks...It has a shortened stained stock, appears battle used, and has a symbol (anchor?) stamped under serial number

 

[Strider243]

I recently acquired a Type I in pretty nice condition. My issue with it is the finish. While it does not appear to have been refinished, as in sanded, it does appear to have been coated with a type of varnish. It is shiny and in spots was applied heavily enough that it "ran". The barrel channel and receiver channel both appear to be free of any finish at all including linseed oil. Is there any possibility that this finish was applied by the Japanese and is original to the rifle or is this a "bubba" finish that I should remove? For your records, it is B1962 has a bright shiny bore, approximately 90-95% bluing and is complete with cleaning rod. I prefer keeping my rifles in "original" condition and if this finish is not original, I'd like to remove it.

I understand these rifles came with no finish from Italy and what finish they have (if any) was applied by the Japanese. Only finish I can confirm is Linseed Oil from multiple sites.

 

[knucklehead0202]

i'd love to find a Type I but have thus far never seen one in california. how's the trigger on them? my carcanos all have nice triggers and my arisakas are horrendous. if this has a carcano-type trigger it'd be to it's credit. one day i'll grab one, and a type44 as well. mmmmm, arisaka......

 

[ireload2]

The trigger mechanism is nearly identical to the Carcano except for the position of the ejector which is dead cented in the bottom of the bolt.
There is no real difference in function but there is a difference in fit between Italian and Japanese Carcanos.

 

[giochegio]

Here are two pictures of the breech, the first is the Carcano and the second is Arisaka, note the different position of the holes, ciao Gioche

 

[03man]

I recently acquired a Type I in pretty nice condition. My issue with it is the finish. While it does not appear to have been refinished, as in sanded, it does appear to have been coated with a type of varnish. It is shiny and in spots was applied heavily enough that it "ran". The barrel channel and receiver channel both appear to be free of any finish at all including linseed oil. Is there any possibility that this finish was applied by the Japanese and is original to the rifle or is this a "bubba" finish that I should remove? For your records, it is B1962 has a bright shiny bore, approximately 90-95% bluing and is complete with cleaning rod. I prefer keeping my rifles in "original" condition and if this finish is not original, I'd like to remove it.

I understand these rifles came with no finish from Italy and what finish they have (if any) was applied by the Japanese. Only finish I can confirm is Linseed Oil from multiple sites.

I don't believe your finish is original. Most/many Type Is have either no finish or a very light, dry stain finish; I don't think the Japanese put anything on the stocks when received, one just sees too many that have what looks like "no finish". But after 65 years, ??

 

[LVSteve]

IIRC, a US importer in the 50s brought a lot of these into the country and had them refinished by folk doing summer jobs. This story was related on a forum by a guy who was there as a teenager. They were required to sandpaper them smooth and varnish them "so they looked nice".

 

[Strider243]

So in your opinions, it would be preferable or acceptable to remove this varnish? I do not believe it to be original. The two brass pin holes on the upper handguard are filled with "dust" and the varnish only goes in about a 1/16th of an inch. I know a lot of guys don't want to touch the finish of any rifle no matter what but as I said in the earlier post, I prefer them to be as original as possible and if this finish does not belong, I'd like to take it off. As stated, it does not appear to have ever been sanded. It has a few small dings which the varnish fills so they occurred prior to the varnish being applied. It was not heavily used, the bore and bolt head appear to have been fired minimally.

Here are some photos showing the finish:

 

[Bernthegrate]

Got this off Gunbroker a couple of years ago. It may already be in your database. L3885. There is a fairly even coat of rust spots that I would like to remove without further damaging the bluing (suggestions?). The bore is excellent. Probably just stored badly.

 

[Strider243]

I've had decent success with rubbing the rust off with a hard object that is flat but won't scratch the metal. Screwdriver tip, back of a knife blade. It breaks up the rust but leaves the bluing alone. It doesn't look like there is much bluing left on this rifle. I usually break up the rust, then oil and fine steel wool it. Whatever you do don't use sand paper or any type of abrasive. That will scratch whatever remaining finish is on it right off.

 

[LVSteve]

I am not good with wood so I would not attempt to clean off the varnish. Regardless of what you do it will always look refinished to some degree, so I would leave it as "refinished by somebody else a while ago".

 

[Berettamen]

NEVER USE A HARD OBJECT (Screwdriver tip, knife back, penny, etc.) to loosen rust. Gees. I've had pretty good luck with bronze or brass wool and just about any kind of oil although lately I've used Kroil to loosen rust or corrosion from a barrel and suspect it would do the same good job from a blue surface. Don't use steel wool, just the bronze or brass. Drop some oil/Breakfree CLP/Kroil on it to lube the process and you'll be able to adjust the press as you go along checking for any unwanted results. But I've had good luck.
Dan

 

[Strider243]

I've successfully refurbished over a dozen rifles with my method with no ill effects. I've also had no success using brass or any other soft metal. It's all pretty much in the care in which you use the tool, not the content of the metal.

 

[jleonardindy]

I'd like to add another type "I" to the list. It is C3187 as far as I can tell. The serial # is on the left side of the barrel, while the bottom is marked "FAT". I searched the receiver with a magnifier, and could not find a single stamp on it, anywhere. The base of the bolt handle has a "45" in a diamond, while the cocking piece has what looks like a cursive "L" with a loop on one side of it, and marks I can't identify on the other, and there seems to be a "U" on the front of the safety. I have to say I was happy to finally find a truly shootable Jap rifle in 6.5mm for $300!

 

[03man]

I'd like to add another type "I" to the list. It is C3187 as far as I can tell. The serial # is on the left side of the barrel, while the bottom is marked "FAT". I searched the receiver with a magnifier, and could not find a single stamp on it, anywhere. The base of the bolt handle has a "45" in a diamond, while the cocking piece has what looks like a cursive "L" with a loop on one side of it, and marks I can't identify on the other, and there seems to be a "U" on the front of the safety. I have to say I was happy to finally find a truly shootable Jap rifle in 6.5mm for $300!

Well it is a JAPANESE used rifle, and if you had been reading the trader here, you could have had one for $200 or less.

The markings you mention are inspection, or mfg. initials; Carcanos have few markings, maybe some on the bottom of the receiver but not otherwise visible.

 

[ArianoKid]

Here's another example of not being able to make hard-and-fast rules about the type I serial numbers. conventional wisdom is that blocks A through F were produced by Gardone, G through I by FNSA, and J through L by Beretta. Here we have a c with FNA marking; I myself have a J block manufactured y FNA rather than by Beretta.

 

[glenmak]

Hi New to the forum. I have a type i that I purchased at an estate auction over 20 years ago, I am thinking of selling this rifle and want to get some idea of its value. the rifle is in good condition and the ser # A1064 I also have about 160 rounds on Norma spbt match ammunition. any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[glenmak]

There is a type i for sale at Guns International for $695