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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Japanese 92 hmg barrel had a .308 insert in the barrel when I bought the weapon. I always had under-gassing issues with the Weapon, it would never function properly. Took the 92 to Colby Snyder of salt fork armory in Tonkawa Oklahoma. He ran a scope down the barrel and said the barrel had little to no riffling left. That along with the .308 bullet which is smaller than the original 7.7 jap round, it was no wonder the weapon would not function. Coby made a special insert cutter for his lathe, chucked the barrel into the lathe and slowly bored the barrel out. He said this process was very time consuming and even a small inaccuracy would eventually bore though the side of the barrel, ruining the entire barrel. After successfully boring through the barrel he took 2 new Israeli .308 chrome lined Browning 1919 barrels and turned them down to .001 over the size he bored through the jap barrel. This produced a nice press fit. He then cut the barrels in half, threaded the ends so they could screw back together using red loctite and used his borescope to ensure the rifling would line up properly. He pinned the .308 barrel to the 92 barrel and drilled the new gas hole. This was neither a cheap process nor a quick one but MY 92 FINALLY FUNCTIONS WITHOUT ISSUE!!!!! Not to mention I highly doubt that I will ever wear out a .308 Israeli chrome lined barrel. The cherry on top: I can shoot easily obtainable 7.62x51 Nato verses reloading 7.7 jap!
 

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I had a similar calibre change for a Type 3 (1914) Design Cileno M1920 from 7mm to 7,62Nato.
Simply got my local Barrel maker to make TWO ( yes, 2) Barrels, one fitted with a Blank-fire Screw in Restrictor, and one without.
The 7mm and 7,62mm cartridges both feed & function
100%, and the gas regulator allows different 7,62 Long Blanks to function at correct rate.
( RG 66 L10a1 are our usual, Nigerian OFN 70 are a bit "boofy", but will work. ( designed for MG3 and HK G3)).
We keep the extra 7,62 barrel for Sound Recording for Stock Footage.
Note, the 7mm, 7,62mm and 7,7mm all use the same Japanese or Hotchkiss "Universal" strip, first supplied to Japan in 1897-98 in 6,5x50 Type 30 cartridge( JuKi type Ho).
I initially bought a hundred type 92 empty brass and tinned strips from a US SOT, but got into making Steel Hotchkiss strips with a craftsman who built three replica Portatives ( .303 types) out of solid steel. He designed the Tooling, I paid for it, supplied the steel, he made both 30 rd strips and 50 round flex. articulated belts, and they work in my Modelo 1920. ( Several Films ).
Steel strips are available, longer lasting than brass, which work harden and tear, and suitable for Nambu heavy MGs, Portatives whether British ( 303) or Turkish ( 7,9mm) and of course, Chilean M1920s. Several MG shooters in USA have YouTubed shooting with our Strips.
DocAV
AVBTechServices
Brisbane Australia.
 

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Yes, "Thin Red Line" bunker, also
"The Great Raid" & "Singapore 1942- End of Empire".
Also our T99 LMG in TRL.
Woodpecker is Type 3 design, built Koishikawa, Modelo 1920 7x57 for Chile. #48 ( some mismatched parts).
New Barrel in 7,62 NATO for ease of Blank Supply.
DocAV
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the interest. I feel lucky that I got this done. Most machinists wont take on a single job like this. Very labor intensive and most people don't want to spend the money. My 92 was worthless other than a show piece before I had the barrel completed. I like to shoot my 92 hmg its a blast to shoot and draws all kind of interest.
 

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.308 barrel insert..... I really dont know. He set stuff up in a lathe, showed me how to keep it going, how to recognize a shortcoming and how to move the lathe out of gear if an issue did arise. Did this on both the Jap. barrel & the .308 donor. He worked on something in the other room while I tended this. He set the bored out Jap. barrel on a piece of belting on the concrete floor and drove the liner in with a big mallet after soaking it in red locktite. The rifled length was a smaller diameter than the chamber. Been 30 (??) years ago.

PJH
 

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I have a similar one on a 1914 Hotchkiss.
No locktight in mine. The muzzle is notched like an Uzi and the barrel has a notch that mates to it. Then a muzzle nut or flash hider screws on locking it together (again like an Uzi). If I want to change calibers or the barrel wears out, I just change the insert.
 
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