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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got this Ishy out to the range today for a test drive. Love the balance and feel. Bit lacking in a couple area I hope can be addressed.

1) With the mag empty the action is smooth as butter but when loaded (wi as few as two rounds) it is quite difficult to work. Not unusable but definitely a PITA. And will be that much tougher once I get a no D&T scope mount on it.

2) I notice the front site is drifted slightly to the left and it shoots slightly right. A machinist buddy thinks the front stock-cap may be on crooked accounting for the appearance of being drifted left. Haven't field stripped it yet.

3) Also, how to sight in? I find it zeroes elevation on a 25yd target wi rear sight elevation set to 250-300. If memory serves, like .223, with .308 you can zero at 25 yds to be "on" at 200yds. Is this correct?
 

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Question #1. It is possible that the magazine has bent feed lips. Happens a lot with Enfield magazines of all flavors.

Question #2. Just about every Enfield I have ever seen (#1, #4, #5, 2A, doesn't matter) has had the front sight drifted slightly to the left. They really are a bit to the left.

Why?

I don't know if I completely buy the explanation, but I have been told that this is because the much thinner right action rail 'springs' more than the left rail when the rifle is fired, and this will throw the muzzle (and the bullet) very slightly left.

I also have heard it attributed to leftward bullet drift at longer ranges due to the left-hand twist rifling.

You pays your money and you takes your choice.

Question #3. It shouldn't be that hard to find a 100 yard range to sight in your rifle. If you are looking to sight in a scope at reduced range, there are a LOT of variables that need to be accounted for, not the least of which is how much above the boreline is your scope mounted.

There is no rule of thumb for this that I know of which would be valid across rifle types and for different calibers.
 

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The bolt was only hard to worl on the first couple rounds - the cock on closing does add some resistance plus the round. I agree its likely the mag lips


Nose cap was fine - it was sitting cocked in the shooting rest


Agree with sighting in at 100 and not trying to work your way up. Worked well for the 74's
We sighted in ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bolt was only hard to worl on the first couple rounds - the cock on closing does add some resistance plus the round. I agree its likely the mag lips


Nose cap was fine - it was sitting cocked in the shooting rest


Agree with sighting in at 100 and not trying to work your way up. Worked well for the 74's
We sighted in ;)
Nope. I shot about six mags worth of ammo through her. Still stiff to the last couple rounds. In fact I just cycled a few through it. Even though it's well oiled it feels like there's no lube somewhere or like there there's crud built up somewhere between some moving parts I can't see. I need to break this thing down all the way and see what's up.

I like to start out close to discover consistency of windage or elevation so I'm not guessing where long distance misses are going (esp wi elevation).
 

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So you are saying that the action is tight with the magazine in and unloaded? or loaded?

My 2A1 will chamber rounds fairly easy, but extraction is when I get drag... and not just with fired rounds, but unfired as well. With an empty magazine, the bolt cycles freely and unobstructed.
 

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A feeling of drag during extraction of fired or unfired rounds can be caused by the fact that the extractor presses the case rim against the left hand side of the action as the bolt is pulled back. This friction in fact acts as the ejector in most cases causing the case to flip out of the action. It is usually only with an unfired round that the case rim will actually hit the ejector screw that protrudes through the action wall. You obviously won't feel this drag when operating the bolt without any ammunition in the rifle
The rim diameter of some .303 cases can be larger than others which will increase the drag, but I have one rifle that does it with all cases. It was necessary to put a shim between the extractor and the bolthead, to reduce the amount of pressure that was being applied to the case rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The rim diameter of some .303 cases can be larger than others which will increase the drag, but I have one rifle that does it with all cases. It was necessary to put a shim between the extractor and the bolthead, to reduce the amount of pressure that was being applied to the case rim.
I'm in .308 here. Does this explanation still apply?
 

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I'm in .308 here. Does this explanation still apply?
Yes.

The .308 extractor hook is modified sufficiently to push the case far enough to drag on the left receiver rail once it is extracted a bit from the chamber. The 'ejector screw' is also located in a different place than on the .303's.

The .308 case still drags on the receiver rail, but it starts dragging just slightly further back.
 
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