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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I got this a few years ago because its a 41 date with no grooves for scope mount ,and it was a decent price, under 750 I think. However some genius apparently thought he could remove some metal to make it feed better or something, ruined the magazine by grinding down the feed ramp and ground some of the are where the bolt closes and in front of magazine area.See anything that could be a problem?It feeds OK now and I sold the bad magazine to a friend that didn't care if it worked or not.I want to sell this thing ,but want to be sure its safe, thanks in advance. Revolver
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Yes it is safe to shoot..question is does it feed from the mag?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes it is safe to shoot..question is does it feed from the mag?
Yes it feeds fine cycling it by hand,That's not the magazine that came with it,it was ruined by someone removing material where the bullet slides up into the chamber.When I tried to chamber a round with original magazine it would become lodged in the breech or barrel,would not feed correctly. Thank you
 

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Yes it feeds fine cycling it by hand,That's not the magazine that came with it,it was ruined by someone removing material where the bullet slides up into the chamber.When I tried to chamber a round with original magazine it would become lodged in the breech or barrel,would not feed correctly. Thank you
Had the same problem with my mag. The tip of the round would not pop up high enough and get stuck just below the chamber. Tried many things, didn't work. Then, I just tried some electrical tape in spots on the mag to "shim" it just a bit higher in the mag well, and make it fit tighter.

Problem solved. Just have to replace the tape shims after each range session.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Had the same problem with my mag. The tip of the round would not pop up high enough and get stuck just below the chamber. Tried many things, didn't work. Then, I just tried some electrical tape in spots on the mag to "shim" it just a bit higher in the mag well, and make it fit tighter.

Problem solved. Just have to replace the tape shims after each range session.
I suspect that was also the problem with this one, but they did the exact opposite to what should have been done. My concern is the head space may have been changed around the area where the case rim goes. They removed what looks like
a very slight amount of metal there, and in no expert on the mechanical aspect of firearms.I may fasten the rifle to something and fire a few rounds, pulling the trigger with a string just to be on the safe side.But would that even be a true indicator of the condition it's in?
 

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It's fine, shoot the dang thing.
 

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Tying down a piece and firing it only proves it didn't go "that time."
This one looks OK-they just took a nub from an area where pressure isn't an issue.
Sometimes one thinks grinders should be regulated.
 

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RossoJap, what I see in your pics is minor deburring. I see nothing worrysome.

I would check the svt for other possible safety hazards before firing for first time.

Set the gas adjustment at the lowest number.

Examine the bolt locking surface and the mating surface on the receiver for cracks and wear, rounding and chips. This is the low back end of the bolt and the cross bar in receiver just behind the mag well.

Test the interruptor (??). Place a piece of cereal box cardboard above the chamber between the bolt carrier and the receiver face where the op rod hole is. Close the bolt. The hammer should not drop if you pull the trigger. This is supposed to prevent the hammer from firing unless the bolt is fully locked. The back end of the bolt drops down and enables the hammer when fully closed.

I do not shoulder any new to me SVT for the first time myself.

Below are pics of one of my Finn SVTs - I do not see much difference.

Daniel39





 

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Tempest in a teapot, these things are not delicate and the damage incurred is far from being bad enough to in any possible stretch of the imagination cause a risk that is not already present in shooting any WWII rifle which IMHO is pretty darn slim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tempest in a teapot, these things are not delicate and the damage incurred is far from being bad enough to in any possible stretch of the imagination cause a risk that is not already present in shooting any WWII rifle which IMHO is pretty darn slim.
Thanks chasdev,glad to hear confidence that there is no real damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
[iurl="http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2202122"][/iurl][iurl="http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2202130"][/iurl][iurl="http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2202138"][/iurl]Ok,after what you all have told me ,and examining the area with a round in the chamber I am not concerned about the grinding,thank you.However, during testing of the interrupter the firing pin will drop with the box top inserted in front of bolt.It wouldn't do it with the box top folded,until I gave the bolt a little push forward,after that it would drop consistently.If I pull the bolt back slightly,firing pin will not drop however,is it working enough?Its hard for me to get out another SVT for comparison. Thank you
 

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[iurl="http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2202122"][/iurl][iurl="http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2202130"][/iurl][iurl="http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2202138"][/iurl]Ok,after what you all have told me ,and examining the area with a round in the chamber I am not concerned about the grinding,thank you.However, during testing of the interrupter the firing pin will drop with the box top inserted in front of bolt.It wouldn't do it with the box top folded,until I gave the bolt a little push forward,after that it would drop consistently.If I pull the bolt back slightly,firing pin will not drop however,is it working enough?Its hard for me to get out another SVT for comparison. Thank you
Russojap, I checked mine, four Finn SVTs. Remove mag and turn the rifle upside down. Examine the movement and position of the rear of the bolt from underneath as you slowly close the action. The bolt rear will drop down into the locking bar in the last 1/4" of the travel of the bolt handle as it closes.

As long as the bolt rear has completed it's downward travel it should be in full battery and safe. The trigger/hammer interrupter(??) is not actuated by the bolt but by the bolt carrier. This is designed so that the bolt is be fully locked before the bolt carrier starts releasing the hammer.

Again, as long as the rear of the bolt is all the way down with the box top in, you should be OK as far as the bolt safety is concerned. Mine may be more worn where the hammer is unlocked later in the stroke.

Daniel39
 
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