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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,

Three years ago I bought a Husqvarna 1640 6.5X55 from Trade Ex here in Canada.Before doing anything to the rifle I wanted to make sure it was a shooter.Had the headspace checked, put a scope on it and went to the range.I shot factory loads from the major ammo manufacturers and concluded that this 1640 was a shooter.
I had it reblued and bedded the recoil lug and decided that at this point I spent enough money on a 45-50 year old rifle.
A month ago I meet this guy in a shop who gave an entry level reloading course and decided to join.I learned alot from him including how critical the barrel crown is on accuracy.In the heat of the moment I decided to get my barrel a new 11degree crown.
I got the rifle back from this same person and immediately went to the range for a second session with reloaded ammo.I was not impressed with the results, my groups had not improved.
Went back home to clean the barrel and noticed inside the barrel about 0.5 cm down three scratchs prependicular to the rifling.Needless to say I was pissed that I intrusted my rifle to a butcher.He probably did not have the proper 6.5mm guide for his recrowning tool and damaged the rifling instead.
Got a second opinion from a real gunsmith who I trusted and he said that the crown was off and needed to be redone but that he would not cut the barrel below the 3 scratchs. To him it was useless since the bore is pitted and removing the scratchs would not make much of a difference.I do notice ,when passing the brass brush through the bore that there is a bit of a grab about a foot from the muzzel.I believe this to be the rust pitted spot.
I got the rifle back last week but did not get a chance to go back to the range so I don`t know how it shoots.

I would like your opinion...is this rifle worthy of a new barrel? Can I "fix" the old barrel?How would I know if the action is still good and sound? Can I get a barrel with the same contour as the original without paying through the nose?
I use this rifle for hunting and I will be reloading so I don't need a highend barrel.
I apologize for the length of this thread..your comments will be appreciated.

Thank you
 

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Hey, buddy,

The 6.5X55 usually shoots well even from a worn out barrel...
The barrel can be lapped to polish the inside, too. Not very frequent to find a 1640 barrel to be badly corroded, though. But (s*)it can happen.
Now, what kind of grouping do you get? what kind of grouping do you expect?
Anyways, my advise would be to keep the rifle as is, and try some reloads. Then, after, you can decide what you really want. You know, the first load is not necessary the one that shoots well. Also make sure that the "rough" area is really corroded and not fouled.

After all the work you have done on the rifle, it's collecting value is gone, anyways.
These actions are some of the best you can find on the market and you wont be able to find any like this today. So, if ever you decide to rebarrel it, it will stilll be a valuable rifle, but no more a collection piece..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello Baribal,

Thanks for your reply...I`m not interested in collecting rifles.I bought it because it`s a good rifle in a great caliber.With factory ammo, it would group in about 1.5 inches with no matter what brand I used.With reloads, I got about 1.4 inches average with 140gr Accubond, 41gr of IMR 4350, CCI primers.This is before the 2nd recrowning job. I will go back to the range next week and post my results.Honestly..I don't except much difference.
The groups I`m getting are good enough for hunting but I realize that the barrel is tried. If I did decide to rebarrel it, what kind of total cost should I expect for a hunting barrel ,keeping in mind that it should have the same contour as the factory since I wish to keep the same stock.Have any of you rebarreled yours and what was the result?

Thanks
 

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lifes choices

hunting groups are ok ! with reloading, different weights or brands, polishing may improve that.
but how much you keep dumping into it is a matter of choice:?, been there and at times keep doing it.:sorry:
as to re barrel thats a choice that may lead to more disappointments and more money and if IT didn't shoot much better?.:tisk:
check the beading points, and barrel channel for spurs or rubbing before you do any thing else.:eek:
i once re bedded a problematic gun three times, three different ways to get a 3/4 in group at a hindered yards. then solded it:confused:<><dk
i've seen a new barrel not shoot as good as a old premium wore barrel?
 

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Andy,

You are getting good advice on this forum. I recently had some similar issues with a retired M96 sniper that had strong rifling but, as Allan would say, had some "debris in the grooves". As with many worn bores, it would not shoot boat tail bullets well - some keyholing and mysterious missing bullets holes resulted. As advised on the swede military forum, I tried 160g bullets andt that did the trick. The flat base apparently helped seal off the bore better? I have noticed that condition with similar worn bores and the std flat based bullets really helped. With 160 Hornadys I got very nice results with RL22(40g) and AA3100(40.6g). A smart person learns from their mistakes and a really wise person learns from the mistakes of others. Please avoid the hand and fire lapping routes. The bore does not have to look pretty to shoot well. Use a 270 or 7mm cal brush and give it a good cleaning with a decent copper solvent. I tried the Tubbs polish system and only succeded in reducing the velocity by 100fps on known loads. The bore looks the same. That system is not intended for your situation. It is intended for removing burrs from a freshly chambered throat, or cleaning up a new, but poorly finished (Remington) barrel, not miraculously restoring a pitted barrel. Save your money. With a peep sight that "shot out" barrel puts 5 into less than 1.25" at 100 yards. With a scope you should be able to easily attain sub MOA groups with the right bullets. Best of luck to you, I have been there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello Usherj,
Thanks for your reply. I am more concerned about the botched crown job that put three gashes on the rifling than the pitted bore.I just started reloading and so far I only tried 140 gr Accubond and IMR 4350.I am hopeful that I`ll find a good recipe for deer. I will learn from others and leave the barrel as is.I have used a .270 cal brush and Hoppes 9 extensively hoping it will fix the problem.I will be headed to the range next week with the 140 Accubond and some factory loads to see if there is a difference in grouping.I will post my results.
Thanks
 

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i use flat base bullets in my huskys 30 years with very good constant results out to two hundred yards.<>dk
 

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While a good crown is conducive to good accuracy there is no guarantee that recrowning yet again even below the scratches will improve your grouping.

If the "butcher" used a piloted crowning tool it is hard to imagine the crown being off. Sure, it could happen. I'd try shooting it and seeing what the results are. Simply recrowning a barrel will not always improve the rifle's accuracy. So, unless there is a defect that you can see or obvious wear I would not recrown.

Now, if in the end your results are not satisfactory, I can't imagine the action not being worth rebarrelling. Luckily for you guys north of the border, those 1640's are cheap. It may be cheaper to buy another than to rebarrel.

That said, I recently had a like new 1640 in 6.5x55 come through the shop. 1.5" is about the norm in that rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The recrowning job is done. The rifling is damaged.In hindsight I should not have done it. I will be going to the range next week and assess the true damage. My question is...if I can`t find a bullet that will shoot in 1.5" or better after trying different bullets, what kind of cost am I looking at for a new hunting barrel? Will I get better results? (DK Phillips doesn't seem to think so).I would like the opinion from someone who has actually rebarreled a 1640.
Thanks
 

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your words your money your problem what do you want ti do?

i didn't mean to imply that you couldn't get better results. :confused:
a good quality barrel 25 in. but you said you didn't need or want a high end pay out the nose job.:confused:
a good glass bedding job, free float or pressure tip, or 3 pillar bedding is expensive UN less you yourself know how to do it as i do.
but i have only bedded one husky with a crack in the tang of the wood, all others maybe just cleaned the barrel channels were rubs occurred.
the sky is the limits, but in your words it seems you didn't want to go that route. with a good quality barrel.
but hunting accuracy 1.5 inch is good, and working your loads out and components down to a science takes time Patience.
but i do get better groups than that with all the husky's Ive collected and kept over the 30 + years of reloading and choice gunpoints.<>< dk
 

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The recrowning job is done. The rifling is damaged.In hindsight I should not have done it. I will be going to the range next week and assess the true damage. My question is...if I can`t find a bullet that will shoot in 1.5" or better after trying different bullets, what kind of cost am I looking at for a new hunting barrel? Will I get better results? (DK Phillips doesn't seem to think so).I would like the opinion from someone who has actually rebarreled a 1640.
Thanks
I can't say what cost would run in your neck of the woods but the least expensive "good" barrel I install is a Shilen and then of course there's the fee for threading, chambering, and crowning the barrel. It's hard to imagine a new barrel, professionally installed, not shooting better than your current setup. Of all the rebarrel jobs I have done only one would not consistently shoot sub-moa. And it was a customer supplied barrel.

Personally, I'd prefer to rebarrel rather than pin my hopes on another used rifle if I were looking for better accuracy. Then again, as cheap as Huskys are at Tradex, I'd buy a couple just to have so I could rebarrel them later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks z1r,
I think we both share the same view. I have a 1640 and buying a second one would not fix my original problem. What would I do with the first 1640? Throw it any? No. Rebarrel? Maybe.. I spoke to a gunsmith and he said that he would not rebarrel a 45 year old action.Baribal ,and I, believe that it would still make a valuable rifle.Would a rebarreled 1640 with a Shilen or Douglas barrel be "better" than say a factory CZ 550? I've mentioned the CZ 550 because they make a 6.5x55.
 

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Thanks z1r,
I think we both share the same view. I have a 1640 and buying a second one would not fix my original problem. What would I do with the first 1640? Throw it any? No. Rebarrel? Maybe.. I spoke to a gunsmith and he said that he would not rebarrel a 45 year old action.Baribal ,and I, believe that it would still make a valuable rifle.Would a rebarreled 1640 with a Shilen or Douglas barrel be "better" than say a factory CZ 550? I've mentioned the CZ 550 because they make a 6.5x55.
Better? Define better? To some having a "new" rifle is better. To some, the integral scope bases on the CZ are "better". To some, the light weight of the 1640 action is better. In a 6.5x55 I believe the 1640 is better because teh CZ is un-necessarily bulky. I can build a much lighter, trimmer rifle out of a 1640. Like this little beauty:

6.75 lbs scoped, pacnor barrel, .270 Winchester. Shoots itty bitty groups.

Time to find a new smith. Sounds like he hasn't got a clue. I make a living rebarrelling & rebuilding actions almost none of which are newer than
60 years old.
 

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if look could kill

45 year old actions are as good or better than new in most cases- if in a 1 condition.:thumbsup:eek:ld guns are re barreled everyday.
that action you have is rated at over 70,000 psi. light clean lined. my favorite is their 1900 with all its improvements.
about new barrels that didn't shoot well. i was talking from experience.
Ive seen over the years some that people / cheep skates- shortcut cost, bad smiths in good in words only:laugh:, in one way or another, have variables in stocking, barrel selecting, low cost or UN known brands, UN marked, chambers not just right, or squared. from so called gunsmiths.
its not just screwing the barrel off and one on. :tisk:
this use to happen many years ago, seen bent barrels, rifling drilled of center, crowns messed up like your. and unknown factors unexplained.
like one i got already built 22-250 that key holed from 50 yards out to 100?
tried everything nothing worked? had a beautiful $500 dollar piece of Caucasian xxx wood, skip line checkering first class finish. at $700 + and would not shoot.:eek:
lost $300 on the sale. the other guy was going to re barrel it- he just paid for Acton stock, Nader butt plate and skeleton grip cap. adj trigger. this gun looked top choice not shot a lot but something was very wrong?
if looks could kill game i would have kept it.:clap:
good money, good known smiths, good years and EXCELLENT reputation's get very EXCELLENT results was all I'm saying Andy.<>< dk
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello z1r,
I`m glad you joined this thread. If I do decide to rebarrel I will definitely not go back to the same smith.BTW when I first brought the Husqvarna 1640 to him to get it reblued, he kept on telling me that it was a military rifle.No matter what I told him, I could not convince him that it was a civilian model. I gave up.
Nice rifle BTW..Did you leave the alloy tiggerguard/floorplate to get it down to 6.75lbs?
 

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andy6.5;

Maybe we should confirm that the rifle is really a 1640. I have seen lots of misidentified Husqvarna rifles for sale. Can you post a pic of the action? Or, can you give us the serial number (it's stamped on the barrel)?
 

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Andy,

Where are you located in the Great White North? I know quite a few gunsmiths who routinely rebarrel FN, Brno and HVA actions, sometimes much older than 45 years... like Rolling Blocks...

You can also contact Trade Ex, they may (or may not) have a loose barrel for the 1640 series. They can also send you to a competent gunsmith.

Good quality barrels can be found all around our Big Icy Land ; from the West coast to the East.
They can even be bought threaded and blued. Send me a PM if you can't find any.
 

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Hello z1r,
I`m glad you joined this thread. If I do decide to rebarrel I will definitely not go back to the same smith.BTW when I first brought the Husqvarna 1640 to him to get it reblued, he kept on telling me that it was a military rifle.No matter what I told him, I could not convince him that it was a civilian model. I gave up.
Nice rifle BTW..Did you leave the alloy tiggerguard/floorplate to get it down to 6.75lbs?
No, we kept the steel bottom metal and concentrated on a svelte stock and light barrel contour.

There are lots of good smiths up north. Take your time and find one you trust.
 
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