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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this stock off the trader a couple weeks back, cheap because it was cracked.
I figured the handguard, and maybe even the front part of the stock could be used for repair or replacement of a sportered T 44.

When it arrived, on inspection it was cracked really bad, both sides, top and bottom; it was really just holding together by some wood in the center. I decided to try to fix it anyway. Just 'cause I have the time and have been doing this type work as a hobby and for gain for about 35 years. I've seen worse, but not much.

The first pictures are before and after shots of the same areas; then pictures of the steps involved in effecting a good, permanent repair.

The materials used are shown in some of the pictures. Thin CA glue is good for clean closed cracks, as seen in the area of the web cracks around the trigger and screw holes. Thin Acraglass is used for the cracks that will close up again with pressure, using surgical tubing or rubber wraps. Finally paste Acraglass is used where material is missing or to fill in gaps.

Each step requires letting the epoxy or glue set over night, so it is a slow process.
Injecting the materials deep into the cracks helps achieve a good bond.

Final step involves drilling 1/16" holes and inserting pins to reinforce the wood through the cracks. Thin CA is injected into the holes after drilling and before inserting the pins, which are driven below the wood level. Sometimes it is necessary to pin from the outside if the crack is in an area impossible to address with the pin hidden.

Well here goes the pictures, I hope it helps someone with their next challenge.
More are attached to the next post, they won't all fit here.

I managed to preserve pretty much intact the original urushi finish of the stock by careful scraping of the excess, a little 0000 steel wool, and a wipe with turpentine/BLO mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Continuation of the repair pictures.
A total of 5 or 6 pins were inserted.
Last pictures are of the finished job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good idea Edokko, I have added a link to the sticky of "interesting subjects".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great pictures and how to info, but are the pins wood or metal?
Pins shown are 1/16" metal, brass is best, steel is ok(from welding rod); wood is ok in areas where a larger diameter can be used.
 

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Nice job.

I used to think an Arisaka with a cracked stock was a waste of time to fix. The first one I bought at a gunshow had a crack which I didn't notice until I got the gun home. It upset me so much that I sold it to a collector who wasn't into shooting them like me. My next t-99 TK 33rd series also had a crack in the same spot as in the photos(must be an inherent weak spot as I've seen many T-99's with cracks in this area), but it wasn't very bad, so I spead the stock as best I could and squeeezed in some thin crazy glue and it hasn't been a problem since. Luckily my 3rd T-99 5th series Nagoyahas no cracks in the stock at all.
 

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Pins shown are 1/16" metal, brass is best, steel is ok(from welding rod); wood is ok in areas where a larger diameter can be used.
Old drill bits work well as pins especially if you are potting them in that the flutes allow entrapped air to escape thus minimizing "push back" and provide great mechanical locking. Moisture is a catalyst for CA's. I have found that an easy way to start the adhesive is to lightly breath through your mouth to bring just a very light level of moisture to the bond area. Finally, long term cure epoxies generally are "tougher"/flexible than the quick cure 5 minute products. Great choice of materials and methods!
John
 
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