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Believe it or not, I walked a whole gunshow for 2hrs today and didn't see ONE stinking Mosin bolt tool for sale. I want to tear down a few bolt and clean some of the dried grease out. I don't have a bolt tool though for easy measurement. What's the best way and how far out should the pin be? Thanks
 

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A way to do it in an emergency, lacking the proper tool, is just to make your own tool by filing a notch the exact height of the firing pin in a piece of aluminum or brass to match the height of your own safe bolt before you take it apart. Then just set back to that.
 

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if the bolt is in spec currently (fires reliably no punctured primers) and you are without a bolt tool the cocking knobs tend to have a witness mark on them for proper depth and you can take note of that and simply match it when you reassemble. if you havent fired the rifle and are unsure of your fireing pin protrusion you will need to find a bolt tool as they are not set on the refurbs. my rifle had exccesive fireing pin protrusion when i purchased it for proper protrusion it has to stick out the cocking pice about three threads
 

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While Muskox hunting a month back, I took aim on a fine fat Ox and "KLICK!!!" 4 times inna row.
I used the bolts forked guide (where the striker rides in that slot) as a wrench.....................I had gauged it while cleaning the night before a tad short. -42 below takes a bit more wack to get things moving....
I had that bolt apart and 1/2 a turn out for the firing pin adjusted proper and ready to shoot again in less than a minute, but to stalk the Ox again took another 1/2 hour till I had a clear shot, and "POW!" was the noise I was looking for, 'Thud' on the ground was the Ox's respons to sudden Death.

I took the one shot and connected proper like, then back at my oldest sons house, I later mesured the pin to perfect, as it was then :D
 

· Silver Bullet Member
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Pin protrusion from the bolt face is correct if it is between .075" and .095".
 

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Rather than paying for a tool if you can find one, just buy another mosin and make sure that you get the kit with it as most refurbs have them. Soon you will have them little tools coming out of your ears.
 

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1. take rifle to range
2. set the firing pin to stick out from the bolt face slightly (a bit over .050" 'by eye').
3. chamber a round
4. aim the rifle downrange
5. pull the trigger.

One of two things will happen, either the rifle will fire, or it won't.

Result 'A': The rifle fires, and continues to do so with subsequent rounds. You are good to go.

Result 'B': If the rifle does NOT fire,
* wait a minute before opening the bolt to eliminate the possibility of a hangfire.
* Remove and disassemble the bolt and screw the firing pin 'in' a half-turn.
* reassemble the bolt and reinstall in rifle.
* repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 and 'B'until you consistently get Result 'A'.

Then, take a mental note of the relative positions of the end of the firing pin relative to the back end of the cocking piece for future reference.

I had to do this with a REALLY rough, ugly, but complete 1945 Ishevsk M44 I bought as a parts gun about 10 years ago for $35. Fairly good bore, but it shoots WAY to the left of the sights.

Didn't have a protrusion tool with me at the time. The firing pin adjustment, and the first several shots from that rifle, were made by tying the rifle to a bench and pulling the trigger with a string. After I finally doped out what it took to get the rifle to feed from the magazine (it wouldn't when I bought it), I decided to not make a parts gun out of it after all.

I STILL don't have one of those handy-dandy combination protrusion gauge/screwdriver thingies, although I DO have one of the screwdrivers WITHOUT the notches.
 

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Use a set of calipers if you have them. Even a thin ruler with 1/16" marks is good enough.
 

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Send me your address and a 1.50 for postage and I'll send you the tool.
 

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Send me your address and a 1.50 for postage and I'll send you the tool.
DANG! Here I went & bought am $8 cleaning kit to get the tool. And postage was $5. :D
 
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