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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Allright, so I acquired my first k31 rifle a few weeks ago and went to the range today to try it out. I brought a couple of rifles, so i was alternating between my k31 and another rifle.
My groups were of 5 rounds each, about 15-20 sec between rounds and 5 minutes between the majority of the groups with open sights
First 5 shots at 50 yards:
Circle Line Tile Pattern
The group was about 1,25", the flyer probably being my fault

Next 2 groups where 5 shot each at 100 yards, shooting 5 rounds of my other rifle between them:
Design Circle Diagram Games Pattern
The one on the right was about 1,125" or 2" with the flyer. I was really impressed with the rifle, but then shot the second group which is 3-4" at 100 yards.

I then went on my other rifles and came back to shoot my fourth group with my k31, again at 100yards:
Circle Games Recreation
I think this group was off because I was begining to flinch a bit (my milsurps where beating up my shoulder pretty badly)
However, I touched the barrel under the front sight before firing it and it was still warm so I don't know how it was under the handguard.
I then left my k31 alone for about 15 minutes, loosen the barrel band a bit and shot 10 rounds with about 20 sec between them and got this:
Circle Recreation

Now, I was pretty satisfied with my first two groups, but after seeing them, the other ones weren't what I was hoping for. It might have something to do with me because I know I began to flinch, however I would like to know if it could be because of barrel overheating too and if other people have experienced this with their k31 or another rifle and what they did to overcome this.
Thank you for your time, all inputs are appreciated! :)
 

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I've had 3 K31s. Two have great accuracy (close to 1 MOA with GP11 ammo), and I still have them both. One I put a scope on one, and a Swiss Products Diopter sight on the other, and that improved my accuracy even more. The third K31 was not so great. When I checked the muzzle with a round of GP11, it swallowed it right up to the brass, which explained the poor accuracy of that rifle. I ended up selling it.

The K31 rifles have a great reputation for accuracy, but a lot of it has to do with the great surplus GP11 ammo. As a result some of these rifles have been shot, and shot, and shot, so it is possible to get one that is just shot out. Take a round of GP11 and stick it in the muzzle and see what happens. If the muzzle is tight, then it may be your fault, but if the muzzle is worn it could be the rifle.
 

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Trigger pull is essential with Swiss rifles. Slow and steady until it breaks. Jerking it just a tiny bit can have severe consequences in accuracy. Some folks amended the ring thingy in such a way that the trigger pull is a smooth affair instead of the two stage design (hope you can follow me).

Of course GP11 ammo is tailored for these rifles but stuff like the PPU 7.5x55 works just as well.

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Practice. Get a spotting scope and align the sights and squeeze a round off. Look were the bullets are landing in relation to your sight alignment. When you learn the correct hold practice consistency in sight alignment shot after shot. Pretty soon your groups will improve. The problem you're having is probably inconsistent sight alignment in every shot. Notice how tight your 50 yrd groups are in comparison. The 100yd groups are more than twice the size of the 50. I'm not very good at it yet but with practice I got a lot better than before.

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It took me a year of weekly practise to steadily squeeze the trigger (Stgw90) on each shot. K31 is the same principle. Dead center with stock iron sights at 300m are very possible but as said it takes practise. Dry fire with dummy rounds helps a lot. Feel the exact moment the trigger breaks and you learn to feel the holding point just before that moment. I aim with the finger on that holding point. Once settled, it takes the tiniest pull to release the round. Then dont move for a second or two.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow thanks for the inputs guys, it's really appreciated! I was shooting Gp11, the bullet goes about 1/3 into the muzzle and after reading the posts, I'm pretty sure it was shooter error. I'll continue to practice with it, I'll eventually get better at it.
 

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Wow thanks for the inputs guys, it's really appreciated! I was shooting Gp11, the bullet goes about 1/3 into the muzzle and after reading the posts, I'm pretty sure it was shooter error. I'll continue to practice with it, I'll eventually get better at it.
From my first instruction in how to shoot while in junior ROTC: (The indoor .22 range was under the bleachers. Whenever I mention this these days, there is utter disbelief; "you had GUNS at your high school?!")

BRASS

B = breathe. Take a breath and let about half out.

R = relax. This actually is the hardest bit to master. Tense muscles induce tremors.

A = aim. Align the sights. This ties in with the "relax" bit; if you have a death grip on the rifle, the sights will jiggle and never settle down long enough for a deliberate aimed shot.

S = slack. Take up first-stage trigger pull. At this point decide whether to shoot or start over. If the first 3 steps have left you suffocating from holding your breath too long, start over.

S = squeeze.

A further comment on "A" - aim. If you are shooting offhand unsupported, the front sight will never settle down and stop jiggling around the target, unless you are a truly gifted shooter. If the front sight is moving in some sort of consistent pattern relative to the bull, that's fine too. Just shoot always at the same point in the front sight's "orbit" around the target.
 

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Other accuracy issues are the limits to iron sights and the eyes of the shooter. The groups you show are about as well as I can do with iron sights with my K31s because with my eyes I simply can't focus accurately enough to make the groups tighter even though the rifle is capable of it. I'm more accurate with my 1903A3 iron sights, because it has a very narrow front sight blade, and an aperture rear sight that makes focusing easier for my eyes. The sights on these rifles were really designed to hit man sized targets, not the center of a paper target.

If you are really going for accuracy, consider a Swiss Products diopter sight for your K31. I saw a very significant improvement in accuracy with this system on my K31. I have one K31 with this system and another with a 6 power scope. The diopter system is as accurate as the scope out to 200 yards for me.

Here is my setup: Swiss products diopter on the rear, and a Gehmann adjustable aperture sight on the front. Once you've refined your technique as much as you can, this system will take you the rest of the way.



 

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If your eyes are up to it, I'd advise a smaller target. Go for something rectangular, about the size at 100m as your front sight appears (if you follow). A diamond in the middle of the rectangle can help even more, as you can repeat it's alignment to a point on your front sight.
 

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There is no reason to jump to Diopter sights , or scoping that rifle. First things first...try to shoot the iron sights on it and this device at the link works to bring things into focus for a mere $25 and they flat out work. Stick on your shooting glasses. Been using one for 10 yrs now. Brings target, front and rear sight into focus. Now..if it does n ot, then seek RX change to your glasses and try again.

http://www.eyepalusa.com/

Last step: if iron sights are just not working for you, then I'd recommend a Swiss products scope mount (bolts on, no gunsmith needed) and a scope. While Diopter is a fine set of iron sights...if you have issues with irons, spending money on Diopter can be a dead end and money lost.

GP11, action screws tight, BRASS per Leons thread (he uses a EyePal by the way), and get an Eye Pal ...hit ranges and do the basics, you will improve.

Without an EyePal, everything is fuzzy for me, with it on my glasses, I shot a 6 3/8 inch group at 600 yds with those iron sights and my eyes are 69 yrs old. Granted my other K31 with the Swiss Products mount and scope is no work at all to shoot at 600 yds or 1000 yds, iron sights on the other hand takes a bit of work and tons more concentration ..for me at least.

I'll let Leon talk more on Diopter as he likes his set, has both K31 with scope, regular Iron sights and the Diopter. I just don't think the next step for you is to chase Diopter. Great sights but not at this point in time.

Tons of great advice on shooting given to you here, get out on range and press on !
 

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The front sight is a Gehmann 520A. The aperture is adjustable from 2.4 mm to 4.4 mm. This sight threads right into the Swiss Products front sight (18 mm). http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=520A
Thanks. I have to measure the height of the 96/11 front sight to see if the SP front globe will clear it. I would have to mount it forward of the factory front sight because the stock on the 96/11 goes all the way to the sight. The rear receiver had already been drilled when I got it, but I still need to find a mount and rear sight. The Gehmann rear sights are pretty reasonable in price.
 

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Milprileb already mentioned EyePal. Here is another tweak that can make a big difference. File the rear sight notch a little deeper to form a "U". Do not widen the notch, just deepen it and keep the sides vertical so they are parallel to the front sight blade's sides.

Attached are examples: the first is a Finn M39 with a "U" notch, and the second and third are a Swedish M96 fitted with the rare "JF" sight, with windage. This sight originally had a "V" notch which was incompatible with the front sight, so I filed it to a "U". At first I was afraid I had overdone it, but it has turned out to be remarkably effective. Material property Fashion accessory
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BTW I posted pics of my M39 and M96 because I have them already posted to the forum photo archive. All of my K31's have the "U" but I have not posted a photo yet. I also think the Finn M39 (and M28/30) sights are the best of all its contemporaries with tangent sights.
 
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