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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,, so i recently went to a gunship in a small town and i found wat looks like and oky k98k,, i just want someone te help me verify and tell me more about the weapons and if its a replica or an orginal,,
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I
Can you post more pics? Bolt (does it match?), rifle - entire length, etc. Looks promising.
Hello thx for reply,, I will have to visit the shop again, lol i had to take sneaky photos soo dint get alot..

But i did check though is the serial,, its the same on the bolt, under the sight it has same serial but the sight has distance markers on the front and back which i havent seen before on most battle rifles..

The backplate also has same serial but i could not find a number on the stock, but tbh i also am not sure were to look..

There is also matching serial at the front of the gun where those U shaped cut outs are...

I am very sorry for the lack of pictures and info i had to do it quick but will try to get more.. any information and or tips for what to look out for would help alot..

He is asking 600 dollars for her and i have been looking for a decent k98k awhile now
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
if you could haggle the price down, a bit, you' would be getting a 'steal'. there is very little metal finish remaining; try to use that for bargaining.
Thx,, if i may ask,, if i cant get it down more would it still be a decent enough buy..

My second question is related to maintenance,, you are saying it has little finish left,, what can i do to maintain her to prevent rust etc if here finish is wearing?
 

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in regards to pricing, it's hard to make accurate comments with so little visual. but if the bolt has matching, "original" #s, it is definitely a desirable piece. "BE CAREFUL" the bolts are what get Boinked on guns like this.

oil is what keeps the rust away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
in regards to pricing, it's hard to make accurate comments with so little visual. but if the bolt has matching, "original" #s, it is definitely a desirable piece. "BE CAREFUL" the bolts are what get Boinked on guns like this.

oil is what keeps the rust away.
Oky thank you,,

How would i know if the bolt is a replica or not,, becuase the serial does match..

Also thx for your answers,, i just dint know with the older guns wheter any old oil would do, so thank you..
 

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the bolt does not need to be a replica. it could just be restamped with numbers that match the receiver and barrel numbers. that is the most common process done to make a mis-matched piece "appear to be matching".

you have to pay very close attention to the numbering on the bolt root. if it looks at all a different style/font from the numbers on the receiver, then it has been restamped/faked to have matching numbers to the receiver. it's the most common type of faking. look "hard and long" at the bolt numbers to see if they look original, and exactly the same as the ones on the side of the receiver. if there are any signs of grinding marks/grooves under the bolt numbers, "BEWARE".

on a rifle such as this, there should be evidence of patina,(rust/oxidation) in the area of the stamped numbers.
 

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You said replica bolt. Not replicas. He is saying most bolts are mismatched serial number wise or maybe from a different 98 action. The finish is worn and its a Model 98 and 1937 production you can see. I would look at the bolt handle and shroud to see what serial numbers they are. Also serial numbers from the trigger guard and floor plate and metal bands etc.. Also remove bolt and look down barrel with a light to see if pitted or worn out. I see these days that anything Mauser these places think is worth a fortune. Sure they bring good money but has to be good condition, matching part serial numbers and depends on what model. I would not pay much over $375 but that depends after I examine it good.
 

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if you could haggle the price down, a bit, you' would be getting a 'steal'. there is very little metal finish remaining; try to use that for bargaining.
I’m sorry but I must disagree. In my opinion this rifle is in such poor condition, having been aggressively (and abrasively) cleaned, that it simply has no collector’s value. That the rifle may have matching numbers doesn’t make it more desirable, it just makes it more sad that it was so badly abused.

Value should be based solely on mechanical condition and the bore because this rifle will never be more than a shooter grade example.
 

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I’m sorry but I must disagree. In my opinion this rifle is in such poor condition, having been aggressively (and abrasively) cleaned, that it simply has no collector’s value. That the rifle may have matching numbers doesn’t make it more desirable, it just makes it more sad that it was so badly abused.

Value should be based solely on mechanical condition and the bore because this rifle will never be more than a shooter grade example.

I'm not here to lock horns with anybody...............but the above terms get tossed around a lot on here.

Collectors Value........................thats a VERY broad term to define. There are all kinds of "collectors" and price/condition of said item will vary from person to person.


Shooter grade example....................along those same lines were people who 13 years ago said the Russian Capture K98's wouldnt be worth much.......................yet 13 years later they sell for 3 times as much as they in 2008.


I see re-blued P08 Lugers fetching decent money for a re-worked pistol so why should 98K's be any different?

If the the OP rifle has a good bore, I'd pay 500 for it. You'll find more than a few guys on here who would......and why??....it's a WWII German 98K rifle.............and they arent making them anymore, nor are getting any cheaper by the year.
 

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I'm not here to lock horns with anybody...............but the above terms get tossed around a lot on here.

Collectors Value........................thats a VERY broad term to define. There are all kinds of "collectors" and price/condition of said item will vary from person to person.


Shooter grade example....................along those same lines were people who 13 years ago said the Russian Capture K98's wouldnt be worth much.......................yet 13 years later they sell for 3 times as much as they in 2008.


I see re-blued P08 Lugers fetching decent money for a re-worked pistol so why should 98K's be any different?

If the the OP rifle has a good bore, I'd pay 500 for it. You'll find more than a few guys on here who would......and why??....it's a WWII German 98K rifle.............and they arent making them anymore, nor are getting any cheaper by the year.
I perfectly understand and agree with you. One person collecting Mauser rifles and another collecting look for different things. Thing is these rifles are not just there for the taking anymore. I have collected them for over 40 years. Ii have them in all conditions , different arsenals and countries. What may be a trash rifle but a shooter to me may be amazing to find for another person. I see poor condition rifles going sky high. The reason is because people will pay whatever for them. That is why its crazy to place a value. A value now depends on what the person wants to pay or highest bidder.
 

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Take a small pen light or something that you can shine down the barrel to check the condition of the bore. If it's all crudded up either walk away or ask the dealer to run a few patches down the barrel. Being in it's present condition I'm hoping that for you the barrel has a good bore. But to be truthful I wouldn't bet any money on it. That and if they won't budge on the price walk away. I've done it in the past. In it's present condition will never be a collectors firearm, just too much damage and rust. Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Take a small pen light or something that you can shine down the barrel to check the condition of the bore. If it's all crudded up either walk away or ask the dealer to run a few patches down the barrel. Being in it's present condition I'm hoping that for you the barrel has a good bore. But to be truthful I wouldn't bet any money on it. That and if they won't budge on the price walk away. I've done it in the past. In it's present condition will never be a collectors firearm, just too much damage and rust. Frank
Thanks for advice..
But i do own a couple of firearms and when i checked the bore it still looks decent,,

I can clearly see the rifling and its still in pretty good shape,, it just needs a good clean,
But i will have a look again..

The action is still smooth and feeds nicely he did let me fikkle with it he just dont like people taking pictures inside his storeroom..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I haggled to get the price down to 300 dollars,, or 4000 Rand if you live in South africa like me..

So i decided to pull the trigger and buy it,, i can always get more later in my life amd every K98k has a story to tell..

But please do tell me what you think abou it and any more information regarding the rifle many thanks..
 

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Welcome aboard.
Glad to see that it's now in good hands!
From the original 2 pics, echoing the mediocre condition here: we can see well-worn but unmolested original blue finish upon a pitted, dusty, moderately neglected rifle that may clean-up w/ some cautious TLC.
If considering it for investment purposes only, this example could flip on GunBoinker pretty quickly/easily to the eager class of nouveau types who have been media-programmed to "buy an Oberndorf, or don't buy at all". Their loss, & they are pretty easy to spot.
Please take that @ face value but for $300, you did fine & could even turn some decent profit on it. Roll the dice, if so inclined.

From a quality perspective however, those 2 original pics would give many collectors enough visual evidence to pass on poor condition alone: pitting at the woodline, dark ferrite oxide stains on the walnut in that immediate vicinity & a receiver "worn-to-white" (aka: bare steel).
I'm also going to hazard a guess that the muzzle end & triggerguard of this rig are equally "wtw".

Could you please disassemble, & inspect below the woodline for further pitting?
There's a very strong chance that some more will be found there.
Other minor flaws that we now see from the excellent new pics: stock seems a bit shiny - it may have been refinished w/ varnish, a mismatched front T/G screw, & a bent loop on the sling band, which is installed 180* out - the slot belongs on the left side.

Congrats, & thanks for posting.

3800471


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