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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last gun show I pick up a 1903-A3 barreled receiver. The barrel is new and short chambered but mfg is unknown in 30-06. This is my first try at finish reaming a chamber. I "guess" I went too far with the reamer because the bolt closes on my no-go guage, even though I only barely touched it with two revolutions of the reamer. I chambered a round and it closes nicely with no play in the bolt. I then put in a field guage and it does not close with the rear lug at about the 2:00 position. I then put 2 pieces of scotch tape on the round, that's about .004, and the bolt does not readily close without hard pressure squishing the tape. I believe rifle is safe to fire and just fishing around for a little advice. Also is a picture of the round and you can see on the shoulder where it mated to the chamber. Thanks

THIS IS WHERE THE BOLT CLOSES ON THE NO-GO GUAGE


THIS IS WITH THE FIELD GUAGE:


THIS IS THE ROUND I USED AND YOU CAN SEE MARK ON SHOULDER WHERE IT MATES WITH CHAMBER
 

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If it won't close on the Field gauge it's OK to shoot.
True, but if you are a hand loader, you will be stretching the crap out of your brass.

I like tight chambers. The fix for this situation is to take the barrel off, chuck it in a lathe, and take a couple thou off the breech end and the shoulder. Then rebarrel and check with your gauges. If it won't close on the go, don't be so aggressive with the reamer.
 

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True, but if you are a hand loader, you will be stretching the crap out of your brass.I like tight chambers. The fix for this situation is to take the barrel off, chuck it in a lathe, and take a couple thou off the breech end and the shoulder. Then rebarrel and check with your gauges. If it won't close on the go, don't be so aggressive with the reamer.
Not if you don't full-length resize after every firing. Just neck-size (or set your dies to BARELY take the shoulder back, just enough to insure easy chambering without having to put a lot of man on the bolt handle to close it), and you will NOT be working the brass a lot and will get both improved accuracy AND improved brass life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well it looks like another project on the back burner! No action wrench and no barrel vice. My action wrench and head is a Remington 700 head. Anyone want to trade it for a 1903 head or set up a network for loaning out the differant heads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bought complete bolt from Sportsman Guide, various receiver parts including stamped trigger guard and a nice stock from a fellow board member. Couldn't wait to re-finish parts and just put it together to see how it functioned. Soon as I can, maybe tomorrow, I'm going to shoot it and see how the brass looks before going any further on the build. I may have to remove barrel and re-headspace after specing out the brass. Probably will shorten the stock also. Here's pics:



 

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With the extractor cut in the breach face, you cannot "take a couple of thou" off the the breach and have it work. That is OK on a Mauser or Remington, but on a Springfield or Pre-64 Winchester, you have to set the barrel back a full revolution and start from there. You should not widen the extractor cut any more than necessary.

Shoot factory loads or neck size your reloads as previously stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With the extractor cut in the breach face, you cannot "take a couple of thou" off the the breach and have it work. That is OK on a Mauser or Remington, but on a Springfield or Pre-64 Winchester, you have to set the barrel back a full revolution and start from there. You should not widen the extractor cut any more than necessary.

Shoot factory loads or neck size your reloads as previously stated.
That was my intent to go a full revolution and rework the extractor cut-out. Do yhou have any idea how much I should take off? Although being no sights involved I figure I could do the same thing by taking off a couple of thousands. I'm going to try and pop off a couple rounds this moring if things work out with my schedule. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just back your full length sizer off a scosh, and enjoy.
Yeh but when I get tired of it, and the way I trade and swap, I want it right for the next owner. Besides this is the fun of it for me. I'm retired and just love playing with my toys. If I don't get a tight chamber I wouldn't feel good about moving it on to someone else.
 

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Just back your full length sizer off a skoosh, and enjoy.
I understand the dates go back a bunch of years but nothing has changed.

I took a picture of my gages and micrometers; the picture weighed 600 pounds. And then I reached for my skoosh gage, not there and then I reached for the feeler gage. Before the Internet there was the M1917 Eddystone, Winchester and Remington. No different then than now; the smiths were talking tacky, it seemed they had narrowed all the problems down to one smith. It was good that he was not sensitive, he just kept on keeping on.

Anyhow I have one of his rifles; the chamber is .002" longer than a field reject length gage. That means nothing to most but to me it means when I chamber a full length sized/minimum length 30/06 case in my M1917 I have I have .011" clearance between the case head and bolt face. I could ask the question; "WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?" but that would take us back to the old days.

I have case forming dies for the 30/06, I do not use them because the component manufacturers do not make cases for reloaders that know what they are doing so I sized 280 Remington cases to 30/06 + .014". After sizing the case I have the magic .002" clearance. I am the fan of cutting down on all that case travel if in fact it travels.

Adjusting the die without a skoosh gage: I adjust the 30/06 die off the shell holder .014" when sizing cases for my long chamber. the 280 Remington case is .051" longer than the 30/06 case from the datum to the case head.

The old timers could not figure out what the other one was doing, they would not ask him and he would not tell them.

F. Guffey
 

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True, but if you are a hand loader, you will be stretching the crap out of your brass.

I like tight chambers. The fix for this situation is to take the barrel off, chuck it in a lathe, and take a couple thou off the breech end and the shoulder. Then rebarrel and check with your gauges. If it won't close on the go, don't be so aggressive with the reamer.

not with a 03, not closing on a field is good,

a NO GO is a 1.946 measurement, and a Field is 1.950, so going by that pic, he may be at a 1.948 ,, maybe,

not enough stretch to even worry, or do like Clyde suggests and neck size


not to mention a reloader will know how to set the size die to just barely bump the shoulder if needed
 

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not with a 03, not closing on a field is good,

a NO GO is a 1.946 measurement, and a Field is 1.950, so going by that pic, he may be at a 1.948 ,, maybe,

not enough stretch to even worry, or do like Clyde suggests and neck size
And I ask: How would a reloader determine if he was stretching the crap out of his brass? And then there is that thing about moving the shoulder back; How does one go about moving the shoulder on the case back?

Before you start I will tell you it is easier to get mad than t is to move the shoulder of the case back. It is impossible to move the shoulder back with a die that has case body support. I did not say it does not sound cute. I will go on to say I am the only reloader on this forum or any other forum that has seen a case with a shoulder that has been moved back.

F. Guffey
 

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I am guessing you have no idea who barreled this receiver. You can get away with a lot when it comes to headspace, but this also affects the extractor cut out. You should check the depth of the cut out to make sure it was done right. Actually, it would be easier to do the whole operation with the barrel off. My only experience with '03 barrels is surplus I bought for other projects. I do have a lot of experience with Arisakas, which have the same basic cutout and have seen some borderline dangerous extractor cuts done on re-barrels.
 

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Last gun show I pick up a 1903-A3 barreled receiver. The barrel is new and short chambered but mfg is unknown in 30-06. This is my first try at finish reaming a chamber. I "guess" I went too far with the reamer because the bolt closes on my no-go guage,
I would never start reaming a chamber without knowing the length of the chamber before I started. There is nothing like knowing when to finish and how far you have to go. There was a time I though it was soo simple.

F. Guffey
 

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I went too far with the reamer because the bolt closes on my no-go guage, even though I only barely touched it with two revolutions of the reamer.
I understood I was resurrecting a 12 year old thread, after reading through this old thread I saw nothing that would change the methods and or techniques for reaming the chamber. The OP had a no-go gage he also had a field length gage and tape. I was thinking there should be a couple of smiths/reloaders that could instruct the OP how to determine the length of the chamber before he started and I believe someone should have explained how impossible it would be to advance the chamber at least .012" with two turns of the finish reamer.

F. Guffey
 
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