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Discussion Starter #1
We usually do not copy replies or responses from other boards. But the question was asked here before, and an answer referred to this rather helpful outside material. So, I'll make an exception and add the assembled knowledge:

http://p102.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm33.showMessage?topicID=3444.topic

Ed Novak
Veteran member
Posts: 1295
(7/29/06 8:46 pm)

Bayonet/sling band removal trouble...
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I cannot depress the sling band spring sufficiently on my M96 to remove the band. The bayonet band spring responded to a 3/8" hardwood dowel used to depress and drift the band using a plastic mallet - just cannot get the spring depressed enough to release the band. I will not ham-fist this to get the band off; I need suggestions. TIA. ed

MP78
Host
Posts: 1475
(7/29/06 9:29 pm)
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I know of a couple ways to depress a stubborn spring and remove the band.

One uses a small vise grip type clamp. The kind with the pistol grip to close and tighten. A small piece of wood the width of the band spring or slightly smaller. Place the wood piece on the spring and tighten down the clamp and then use a drift tapping top and bottom or side to side to remove the band.

The other is far easier.

Place the rifle upside down in a rifle vise or other fairly stable platform. You can just hold it steady if your careful.
Take a thin straight screw driver. Place a piece of tape over the blade to protect the blueing on the band and spring. Then place the screw driver tip in the little gap at the back of the band where the spring starts and press down on the spring. The tip of the screw driver will slide down into the gap and depress the band spring. With the spring depressed lever the screw driver forward against the barrel band and move it forward off of the spring...It is very easy when you've done it before and sounds difficult when writing it down but once you've done it you'll say, Dang that was easy.

Ed Novak
Veteran member
Posts: 1297
(7/29/06 9:43 pm)
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MP78: I considered the use of a screwdriver but hadn't thought of the tape to protect the metal - excellent idea.
Second thought - since I am already using some hardwood dowel is to use a padded cabinet gluing clamp, much as you suggest. Will have a careful go at this tomorrow morning, well rested. Thank you. ed

Swedeman1
active member
Posts: 69
(7/30/06 7:14 am)
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I know you probably have, but just to make sure ... have you removed the cleaning rod? The spring will not depress if the rod is not removed.

Another handy tool for safely depressing into the notches between the springs and bands is an old tooth bruss handle that has been shaved to look like a screw driver tip. Since it is plastic it won't scratch the metal.


MP78
Host
Posts: 1477
(7/30/06 7:57 am)
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I just took it for granted that he had removed the cleaning rod because he was able to depress the band spring on the front band and bayonette mount.

The screw down "c" clamps are harder to use. It seems that when you try to keep things all lined up you sure could use a third hand, that's why one of the trigger squeeze types works better.

Swedeman1, Thats a great idea about the tooth brush handle. I've seen it posted before but haven't tried it..Jim


Ed Novak
Veteran member
Posts: 1298
(7/30/06 2:10 pm)
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Swedeman1: I remember now that you suggested that earlier; just forgot - thanks - now, where did I put all those old toothbrushes I've saved?
MP78: The clamp isn't a "screw-down" but one of those with a pistol-grip which clamps by squeezing the "trigger" to close up the jaws. "C clamps" only work for people with 3 or 4 hands, I think.


Ed Novak
Veteran member
Posts: 1299
(7/30/06 4:18 pm)
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After a struggle, using the taped screw-driver blade method (couldn't find those old toothbruses), I was able to get the sling band off - tight bugger! Very difficult to remove and not much easier to reinstall. Wood numbers match the rest of the rifle so I have satisfied my need to remove the wood - probably won't do that again unless some other need arises. Thanks again to Swedeman1 and MP78. ed


MP78
Host
Posts: 1479
(7/30/06 10:56 pm)
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Hi ED sometimes old dried cosmoline and dirt can get under the band spring making it hard to push down enough for easy band removal. If you ever take the rifle appart again you may want to tap out the band spring and clean under it...Jim


Ed Novak
Veteran member
Posts: 1300
(7/31/06 7:42 pm)
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MP78: Good idea... if I ever remove the sling band again. I didn't think of that while I had the rifle disassembled - it was done out on the picnic table, temperature was 100F and I was pouring sweat; just wanted to get the immediate thing at hand done. I was very surprised at the stiffness of the sling band spring c/w the ease of removal of the bayonet band. You are probably correct; I will may try this again in a week or so but if I do, how does one remove the spring? TIA. ed


MP78
Host
Posts: 1480
(8/1/06 5:19 pm)
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In the barrel channel directly above the spring you will see a little rectangle shape, Just take a small punch and tap it towards the bottom of the stock. The spring will come out without much effort...Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Barrel band removal

Here is anther thread on "stock removal", more specifically on getting off the barrel bands without damage. I like the "make your own proper tool" approach and the nice pics.

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CrackerJim
Starting Member
5 Posts
Posted - 02/09/2007 : 12:36:22 PM
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I looked at the manual linked in the stickies above but found no info on removing the stock. I see the two bolts at the bottom plate/ trigger guard.

I can't figure out how to remove the bands near the front of the rifle. I notice the flat piece of metal let into the stock that appears to work with the bands, but not sure if they're a factor or not.



jorma
Posted - 02/09/2007 : 1:43:01 PM
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Hi gents, should be very easy:

- first take off the cleaning rod.
- make some kind of "crowbar" to press those spings down, flat pieces of metal.
- it might be very hard, there might be all kind of dirt.
- with hand guard be very careful not to spit it, lift the rearsight up and it should come out fine, use your common sense.

PS. forgot to mention make that "crowbar" from soft material so you don`t marr the blueing.



57Coastie
Posted - 02/09/2007 : 2:32:41 PM
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I had the same problem with my "new" 1917 m/96. Member USMCSean gave me a bunch of help. Take a look at http://www.gunboards.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=206372 . Note that he made an addition later.

BTW, if you have a rifle cleaning vise use it. That gives you two hands for the job.


JIMMYC
Posted - 02/09/2007 : 3:01:07 PM
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This was my solution. As it has been called "the sharpened stick"
It works very well and dosen't damage the finish. All you have to do is push down on the "stick" it will cause the band spring to compress and also make the band slide forward. Just be sure to first remove the cleaning rod, as mentioned above or neither band will budge!!

http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/JIMMYC/20072915838_DSC06281.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/JIMMYC/200729145839_DSC06282.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/JIMMYC/20072914595_DSC06284.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/JIMMYC/20072915018_DSC06285.JPG
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Dutchman
Posted - 02/09/2007 : 3:22:47 PM
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And its a darn nice sharpened stick, JimmyC!

p.s. your photos are very good for this procedure. Seems a lot of newbies have trouble with the band keepers.

Dutchman
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Inventing the Sharpened Stick... expanded follow-up

JIMMYC
Posted - 08/31/2006 : 2:29:29 PM
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I made this tool after getting very frustrated trying to remove barrel bands and nose caps from my Swedish rifles. It works GREAT, and won't leave any marks on the metal or wood. It's made out of a 5/8" hardwood dowel. The angle on the tip is not real critical.

http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/JIMMYC/20072915838_DSC06281.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/JIMMYC/200729145839_DSC06282.JPG
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To use the tool you first remove the cleaning rod from the rifle. Then place the rifle on it's back. Use a piece of wood under the action so it can create a space under the barrel band or nose cap. This allows them to move. Place the tool as shown and push down. the band or cap will snap off. Works like a charm. It dosen't matter which side of the tool you place againg the band or cap.

http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/jimmyc/2006831142741_DSC06286.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/jimmyc/200683114285_DSC06285.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/jimmyc/2006831142823_DSC06284.JPG
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/jimmyc/2006831142838_DSC06283.JPG
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The tool also works on other type of rifles.

Oh I forgot to add...when the tip get a little chewed up, just use a file to clean it back up and your in business again!!


Dutchman
Posted - 08/31/2006 : 5:24:42 PM
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I appologise ahead of time, but this struck me as being extremely funny

JimmyC invents the sharpened stick!!!!!!

And you did a dang nice job of whittlin' that stick, too

Dutchman



mauserdoc
Posted - 09/01/2006 : 12:52:40 AM
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Like the days when I go around looking for my keys for 30 minutes to get to the hospital to operate only to find that they are in my hand... Simple solutions ARE often the best and I am very appreciative of Jimmyc's post as I have damaged more than one mauser trying to take off the bands. Thanks! mauserdoc


45BPCR
Posted - 03/05/2007 : 3:24:24 PM
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I was just seaching through back posts and came across your homemade tool for barrell bands. So I went into my kids tool box and grabbed this Mercedes tool. It's made of nylon and damm near indestructibal
Mercedes part # 900 589 01 77 00

http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/45bpcr/20073515245_shop 004.jpg
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parkerswede
Posted - 03/06/2007 : 12:12:03 PM
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A wooden clothespin half is the perfect width to remove these. I used electrical tape and taped the clothespin to a pair of channel locks. I taped the other jaw with electrical tape so it doesn't mar the wood. You simply squeeze the barrel band down (a one-handed operations) and tap the barrel band off with a soft mallet. I've done hundreds this way.
 
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