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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ahem...
It's soooo easy to make a tackdriver modern varmint rifle out of your old milsurp beater from Ultima Thule. After first having thrown away that gunky dark red brown dinged stock that looked liked Auntie Millie's mahogany cupboard that had been press-ganged into the army, and after having put on a snazzy nice Kimber plastic stock, now have your cousin "JoeBob" (copyright by Dutchman) come over with his handheld power drill. Put a large dome-headed wood screw on it, liberally smear the screw slot with some grinding compound (the coarse it is, the quicker the job gets done; Bubba's hardware store will help), press it down hard on the muzzle and then put a nice sharp target crown on that rifle that will make you the terminal fear of all jackrabbits (and of all Swedish Mauser collectors).

Or not.

Or you could just learn a bit about the proper Swedish way of recrowning muzzles with a mynningsfräs. And save Our Esteemed Moderator from a curdmudgeon attack.

(PS: I just acquired an all-matching [until the very last screw] German Gewehr 98, Danzig 1915. It has remained entirely untouched since the Great War, in fact was not a single time disassembled. Of course, it is gunky and grimy, and shows some light surface rust. Now where it my trusty power sander, and the polyurethane lacquer, and where are the workshop imps? In less than two hours, this unspectacular ungly gun will be The Pride of the Addams Family. Hehehehe.... *trails off, rubbing his hands, and cackling manically*)

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57Coastie
Posted - 02/11/2007 : 10:22:25 AM
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Could someone be so kind as to define "recrowning" for this ignorant newbie to rifle target shooting, particularly as the term is used with respect to my m/96? I have read that this, whatever it is, might improve her accuracy, not that I think it needs any improvement.

The stock military rifle matches I hope to begin participating in this coming weekend have 50 yd. and 100 yd. stages. If relevant, modification of the stock m/96 is verboten other than for replacing the front sight blade followed by filing on the new taller blade, if necessary, both of which I have done, bringing her close enough at 100 yds.


Metzgeri
Posted - 02/11/2007 : 4:31:53 PM
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Anyhow, here's a brief discussion of the topic:
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/muzzle/mz.html

BTW, it's also called refacing or chamfering the barrel. It's harder than you think. I've been practicing it on some shot out Mosin barrels and still can't get the technique down.


JK
Posted - 02/11/2007 : 5:11:37 PM
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I agree, if the "webmasters" can do anything with the sucky thing they call a Search it would be greatly appreciated, especially those of us forced to live in the stone age of dial-up. There is a great deal of valuable information hidden in past post that just can't be found do to its shortcomings. Therefore we keep seeing the same questions that have been answered over and over again.


Dutchman
Posted - 02/11/2007 : 6:30:29 PM
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Swedish regimental armorers had a handheld tool to recrown muzzles. You'll see a lot of rifles with nice shiney crowns and this is why. If you look very closely with magnification you may see remnants of the cutting edges of the tool.

If you value the originality of your rifle you will NOT take your Swedish Mauser to the corner gunsmith to have it recrowned. Bad idea. This forum focuses on preservation, not alteration, and having JimBob the gunsmith recrown your Mauser is akin to alteration from Swedish military specifications... unless JimBob owns a crown marked Swedish recrowning tool. Be advised, Metzgeri, that while your suggestion and weblink is ok as far as general education goes it deviates from the stated purpose of this forum. You'll ruin the value of your collectable rifle if you recrown it as illustrated on that webpage.


Dutchman
Posted - 02/11/2007 : 6:58:06 PM
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American gunsmiths are not knowledgeable concerning Swedish military procedures. Taking your collectable rifle to a gunsmith for just about anything will get you just about nothing. They don't have correct headspace gauges and they don't have the knowledge of what to do or what to look for. They will gladly take your money.

All m/96 barrels will have a shiney crown. None are blued. They should not be chamfered on the inside. The crown where it intersects with the bore should be SHARP. Muzzles were checked with a muzzle erosion gauge, a pin gauge of a certain diameter. Once in a great while you'll see these gauges and the bore erosion gauges show up on ebay and they are mucho dinero (and worth it).



Dutchman
Posted - 02/11/2007 : 7:23:41 PM
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I react the way I do because of all the bad information that gets posted in this forum from time to time. Its that ~standard~ that we're trying to maintain in preservation so if I come on a little (or a lot) too strong its only because I'm committed to being stubborn in not deviating from that standard. The dedicated collectors appreciate that attitude while the newbies get irritated by it.

I was going to photograph a crown for you but the only rifle I have out of the safe is a m/96b with a threaded muzzle and it doesn't quite look the same.

If anybody has good clear sharp photos of m/96 crowns please post them.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Muzzle crowning tool - photos

Some time later, a truly GREAT threat followed; one of the best that this forum has delivered, and which I am saving and handing over now. Thanks to all who contributed !
http://old.gunboards.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=211425

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Dutchman
Posted - 02/16/2007 : 2:44:07 PM
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I've been sent this photo by a mysterious collector who's contributed much to our overall and detailed knowledge of Swedish Mausers. He states that the handle is missing. He also states that it is not crown marked but is marked with an etched number GF63087 (or close). He further states that there are some rebuilt m96 with blued crowns from the "late period", as he puts it. These types of rifles have Dulite Black Oxide finish and are finished inside the receiver as the earlier rifles were polished steel in the receiver raceways. The bores and chambers were thusly black oxided as well.

http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/Dutchman/2007216143917_Muzzle Crown Tool.jpg
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W.R.Buchanan
Posted - 02/16/2007 : 4:12:09 PM
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Dutchman: I'm curious how the handle attaches to the cutter pictured? Typically this type of tool has a threaded "spud" that screws into a handle, or vice versa. This one appears to have a ball on the end, and a notch in the edge to drive it? Also it appears to have an inside/outside radius to generate a rounded style crown. Is this a standard Govt Armors tool or is it aftermarket?



parkerswede
Posted - 02/16/2007 : 6:09:58 PM
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I have a pic of the tool/instrument/machine - whatever you want to call it somewhere. Its called a mynningfras is memory serves me correctly (doesn't always).



swede
Posted - 02/17/2007 : 03:20:51 AM
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There is a advertisement reproduced on page 141 of the German book by Carsten Schinke that shows this exact tool. The missing part is simply a rod with a driving lug for the slots. It is probably an after market item that is used in an electric hand drill or in a drill chuck on a lathe. There is a whole page in the add with detailed info. Unfortunately, I cannot read Swedish !



sbhva
Posted - 02/17/2007 : 09:25:07 AM
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It looks like it's part of a Widforss catalog which would make it aftermarket.



arilar
Posted - 02/17/2007 : 3:48:49 PM
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I CAN READ SWEDISH!!!! But unfortunately....not that good in translating.
Here is the add from Widforss catalogue from the 40s I guess. Before Black & Decker became every handy-mans electrical hand-drill. Lathe is not proposed in the add.



Instead thes items are essential:



Your m/96 fastened in the carpenters bench (muzzle up!!). The "tool" connected to the brace. Dont forget to place a piece of cotton-wool approx. 8 inch down inside barrel from muzzle!! (To prevent metallic chips to reach the mechanism). Advice to be standing on a chair during the process to reach "pressure" enough. Because you need a certain experience to reach a good result its proposed carefulness if you are inexperienced!!!!!

Regards,
ARILAR



swede
Posted - 02/17/2007 : 4:57:46 PM
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That is the same add that is in the German book. I have seen another version that had it's own hand crank with it. I cannot find the source ?



arilar
Posted - 02/18/2007 : 02:43:41 AM
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Swede, I took the add from Carsten's book but everything indicates Widforss and the 40s. The add also tells to connect the tools chisel to a brace.



sbhva
Posted - 02/18/2007 : 10:34:45 AM
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ARILAR;

Your translation using pictures is great!



swedeadmirer
Posted - 02/19/2007 : 12:23:03 AM
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I believe I have an original one with the matching brace - I'll get an image soon



arilar
Posted - 03/11/2007 : 04:54:27 AM
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Found a 1948 Widforss catalouge and it had this included:





swedeadmirer
Posted - 03/17/2007 : 04:51:47 AM
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The crowning tools shown have the Crown stampings.
I believe the machining was done in 2 stages and the 3rd tool seems suitable for threaded barrels

http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/swedeadmirer/200731744536_general.jpg
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http://old.gunboards.com/uploaded/swedeadmirer/200731744636_closeup.jpg
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136.34 KB
 
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