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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
GF Diopter Disassembly

The purpose of this tutorial is to show how the GF Diopter can be disassembled. The main reasons to disassemble are to clean/lubricate or to repair/replace parts. The gears (rack & pinion) in this diopter are very small and delicate. I caution anyone disassembling this diopter to go slowly, do not use extreme force and align the rack & pinion gears properly before reassembling. Any “heavy handedness� could result in stripped gears and an inoperable diopter.


NOTE: I have added the English and Swedish versions of the instruction manual for the GF Diopter at the bottom of this post. Many thanks to arilar for this and all the other information he provides. Other version of the manual can be found here:
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=2242&highlight=GF+Diopter

Figure 1: The GF Diopter main parts are a base (A), Windage Adjustment (B) and Elevation Adjustment (C).


Figure 1

Figure 2: The Elevation Assembly can be removed from the base by turning the windage knob counter clockwise until it disengages from the Elevation Assembly. The Elevation Assembly is then removed from the base by pushing or pulling to the right, in the direction of the arrows.


Figure 2

Figure 3: The base and Windage Assembly can now be removed from the rifle by removing the mounting screws (1 & 2). Be careful not to loose the spring (a) as it is now loose and can fall out.


Figure 3

Figure 4: After removal from the rifle, the Windage Assembly can be disassembled and removed from the base. Start by removing screw (1). Next, remove the windage knob (b) from the threaded shaft (a). Be careful not to loose the ball bearing (d) which sits in the hole (e) of the windage knob. Finally, remove screws (2a) and (2b) and plate (c) can be removed from the base. Not covered below, but you can also remove the set screw and windage indicator (lower right side of Figure 4).


Figure 4

Figure 5: Begin to disassemble the Elevation Assembly by removing the diopter eye piece (a) and twisting and pulling off the top cap (b). The cap is not threaded and is only held on there by tight fitting to the housing. You may have to use vise grips wrapped in tape to protect the finish. Next you can remove the coil spring (c). Remove the nut (1) and the elevation dial (d) and spring (e) can be removed. Reinstall nut (1) onto the threaded shaft (f).


Figure 5

Figure 6: Next remove the roll pin (a) and the screw (1)


Figure 6

Figure 7: Using pliers, twist and pull on the nut (1) and the threaded shaft (f) will come out.


Figure 7

Figure 8: Finally, remove the diopter elevator (g) by pushing it through the top of the housing (h) and remove the nut (1) from the threaded shaft (f).
It is not recommended to remove the spring from inside the elevation dial (d).


Figure 8



 

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Sticky material.

Great stuff Metzgeri! Worthy of a sticky.
 

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You just saved me many hours.....

But, I am still trying to figure out why it does not seem to go up as far as it looks like it should...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Could be dirt, could be the coiled spring binding, could be the gears stripped.

Also, the timing of the gears could be off. The elevation dial will only turn so far. A previous owner may have reinstalled the threaded shaft so the elevator only goes up so high.

metzgeri
 

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Yes there is a little threaded shaft above the sight aperture (under the cap) The aperture moves up until it runs into the little threaded shaft.


I also need to figure out how to set the range ring....
What does the big B mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
...I also need to figure out how to set the range ring....
What does the big B mean?
There's an A ring and B ring. In the manual they are referred to as the white scale and orange scale. I assume A is white and B is orange. They are set for different velocities.

As for setting the range, tighten the screw "A" in the first figure below. This locks the range knob from moving. Then use the spanner wrench (or screwdriver) to releave pressure on the range ring as in the second figure below. The spanner is inserted into the loop of the wire spring inside the knob and you twist the spanner wrench 90 degrees. Now just move the range ring to zero it at your range.

metzgeri
 

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metzgeri

I zero my B ring to read at the (1) mark with the sight as far down as it would go. (which is still too high for 100 meters).
Then I moved the sight up in elevation as far as it would go. It stops at the 4.50 mark...

Is that normal or am I missing some sort of movement? The ring does go all the way to 6.

Another problem I have is that the windage (upper) slide assembly will not come all the way off the lower mount. It is hanging up on something. I will investigate more today...
 

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If you do not have a full 600 meter range in elevation , you probably don't have the relief cut in the receiver . The sight won't go down all the way without the cutout .

See the upper left corner of the instruction sheet below :

In removing your top half , it is hanging up because the straight wire spring ( a ) in fig. 3 is cocking it up . You need to hold the top half down flat on the base while sliding it off . Also , the relief cut under the top half will hang on the oval relief cut in the center of the base . There are sharp corners on both pieces which make it difficult to remove them .
 

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Well I finally got it apart. There were two problems..

1. The spring in the upper cap was all dinged up , plus coated with harden gunk. It was almost glued in place.. So it would not let the elevation shaft go upwards past 400.
I fixed that and now it goes to 550 when zero on the bottom.

2. The receiver is milled out for the sight, but not as deep as it should be. It needs a touch more clearance to go down just a little more. This should let me have movement all the way to 600 and also let me get the rifle zeroed at 100 meters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Glad to hear you got it figured out. :)

metzgeri
 

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Boy, just a minor bit of crud will really make these things internal parts stick...

I just cut the recess in the rear receiver slightly deeper and I going to lock-tite the base screws in place after lunch.. They were loose. That would explain the odd groups on Sunday...

Now I have to find some more front sight inserts...
 

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Tell you what,, it also pays to double check how the elevation wheel is indexed before you put the locking nut back on. There is a little stud in the back that limits the rotation. If the elevation internal assembly is partially up and the wheel is indexed wrong, all sorts of weird things happen.
 
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