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Premium Member
415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Frequently Asked Questions / New Members Primer

First off welcome to the cetme board. You won’t find a friendlier place to learn about rifles anywhere on the internet! This post is to attempt to answer frequently asked questions by new members. If you have a question, please read the FAQ here first, it's quite likely you will find the answer here already.

This will be an ever-growing list. As we think of new frequently asked questions, I will add them to this post as time goes on.

First, let me start with the rules of the forum.

1. This is a friendly forum. Please try to keep it that way. Members try very to make this a welcome and civil place. Please respect that and be polite.

2. There are many members of all sex, races, colors, creeds, religions etc here. Please refrain from posting anything that might be offensive to the members here. Before you go posting pictures of half-naked women with guns, think about how the female members of the board might feel. Before posting negative comments about other countries, or NATO, or the UN etc please understand that we have members from different countries here.

3. If you have troubles, you can email any of the moderators at any time by finding a post from them and clicking on there name to send email.

FAQ for the CETME rifle

What type of ammo does this rifle use? I’ve seen talk of 308 Winchester, and NATO 7.62 x 51mm, what is the difference, and why are the rifles marked .308?

Answer These rifles are military battle rifles. They have a fluted chamber, and were chambered for the NATO 7.62 x 51mm military round. The .308 Winchester is commercially produced ammo for hunting rifles. .308 generally tends to have much softer brass than military NATO ammo. The CETME, G3, and other fluted chamber weapons were designed to use brass of certain hardness so that the chamber would reliably extract the brass cartridge after firing. If you use 308 commercial ammo in your cetme rifle, you stand a great chance of getting case head separations, and bad performance out of your cetme, not to mention commercial 308 ammo generally tends to be of higher pressure than what your rifle was intended to shoot. Plus the bullets can be heavier and the cetme was designed to use a standard NATO 147 grain bullet. Stick with the NATO 7.62 x 51mm military surplus ammo, and you cannot go wrong.

Question Which H&K parts would fit on a Cetme Sporter?

yes on barrels, and barrel pins
no on trunnions
no on bolt carriers
no on locking pieces
no on bolt heads
no on bolt locking levers
yes of firing pin
yes on firing pin spring
yes on recoil spring
yes on butt stock housing with minor fitting
yes on butt stock with minor fitting
yes on grip frames
yes on complete trigger pack swaps
yes on rear sights when the entire sight base is swapped
yes on slim or wood hand guards
yes on wide hand guards with minor fitting
yes on triple frames
yes of flash hiders / muzzle brakes
yes on triple frame sling eyelet pin
yes on cocking handle, and spring
no on cocking sleeve
no on cocking tube
yes on triple frame end caps
no on recoil buffers unless you use hk butt stock housing, and hk butt stock
yes on pistol grips - slight inletting may be needed
yes on butt stock pins
no on butt pads unless you swap the stock with the pad as a set
no on hk 21 rubber butt pads unless you use the hk stock

this list is not complete - more to come as questions are asked.

Question Does anyone know what breaks/suppressors will fit the Sporter? And can you even remove the original break?

Answer The following answer is from a post by AZShooter
The pin is located at the 6 o'clock position (on the underside) of the brake. The brake is first screwed on (RH thread) and a hole of smaller diameter is drilled part way into the barrel. A pin is installed and the hole in the MB is backfilled and painted.

Simply begin grinding at the 6 o'clock position (I used a Dremel rotary file to begin, then finished with an abrasive wheel. You will notice that the metal filling in the hole is slightly different in color than the surrounding MB metal. Continue grinding until another color of metal appears in the center of the backfill metal - that's the pin. Try whacking the brake 180° to the pin with a dead blow hammer or plastic mallet. Inertia will back the pin out, where it can be pulled out with a pair of pliers.

Either drill a hole in the new brake, pin, backfill, & paint, or secure the new MB with hi-temp silver solder. Brownells sells an approved hi-temp silver solder to do this.

Should I get one of those plastic buffers that slip inside the stock made by blackjack buffers, or buffer technologies?
Not unless you want to crack your wood stock, and damage the metal parts on your rifle. The cetme already has a buffer in the stock that works quite well. If this were needed, the engineers would have put an extra buffer in the rifle. These have been reported to destroy the butt stock, and metal parts of the rifle. Don’t buy one. The cetme has no recoil anyway, and you are not going to damage the rifle by firing it.

This is a picture of Youngblood’s rifle. Notice how the sleeves have become separated from the housing where the yellow arrows are

What are the US made parts on the CETME, or G3 rifle?

cetme with wood

muzzle brake (don’t count this if they chopped the barrel so you cant install one)
cocking handle
pistol grip

cetme with black plastic furniture
muzzle brake (see above)
cocking handle
pistol grip
butt stock
hand guard

G3 from century arms

Muzzle brake (see above)
cocking handle
hand guard
pistol grip
butt stock
(no trigger)

FMP G3 assembled by century arms
muzzle brake
cocking handle
pistol grip
butt stock

You only need 7 us made parts of the list of 20

here is the list of 20 us made parts
(01) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings *
(02) Barrels *
(03) Barrel extensions
(04) Mounting blocks (trunnions) *
(05) Muzzle attachments (muzzle brakes)*
(06) Bolts *
(07) Bolt carriers *
(08 ) Operating rods (cocking handle) *
(09) Gas pistons
(10) Trigger housings *
(11) Triggers *
(12) Hammers *
(13) Sears *
(14) Disconnectors
(15) Butt stocks *
(16) Pistol grips *
(17) Forearms, hand guards *
(18 ) Magazine bodies *
(19) Followers *
(20) Floor plates *

items with stars apply to cetme and G3 rifles

How do you change out the buffer internals

blue gascon wrote:
OK- so I'm one of the guys who took advantage of the group buy on the new Blackjack buffer. That means I discovered the same thing all the rest have- namely that the buffer is a BEAST to get apart! I tried a couple different things and all I managed to do was bend a variety of bar shaped pieces and snap off the end of a file. So I got to thinking about what the right solution would be. It's obvious that the factory designed the piece for disassembly with a special spanner wrench, and I sure dont have the toolmaking skills to duplicate that. But the idea of using a bar across the slot in the piece seemed like it should work, except that putting enough torque on a bar had managed to bend anything I tried so far.

So what is needed is a bar to span the slots, that doesn't require a foot of length to turn the back of the buffer. Here's what I came up with:

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It's a 5/8 castle nut. I used a piece from the end of a LARGE mending plate I had kicking around for the bar part. I pressed it into the castlations on the nut, then cut it off so it was only about 1/4 inch taller than the nut face. A bit of dressing it up with a file insured that it fit the slots in the back of the buffer and was flush with the sides of the nut.

I locked the plate of the buffer assembly in a bench vise, then set the new tool into the slots. This let me put a 7/8 deep well socket over the whole mess and use a 1/2 in. drive ratchet to turn the plug out of the back with darn near no effort at all!! Replaced the old rubber buffer and reassembled with the same tool. Job took about 3 minutes with the right tool. Hope some of you guys benefit from this.

What are the Muzzle Threading Specs.
By El Chopo
CETME; H&K 15x1 RH Metric

FN metric pattern 9/16x24 LH English

FN inch pattern 9/16x24 RH English

AK 14x1 LH Metric

AR 1/2x28 RH English

Dies available thru Victor Machinery--1-800-723-5359

Be sure to thread w/ a pilot in the muzzle to guide the die for a true threading.

Premium Member
415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
faq part 2

What is a FR8??
The Spanish Government had a bunch of aging Mauser rifles that were just sitting around collecting dust since the CETME's introduction. Not wanting to throw anything away, or waste anything, they decided to make a conversion from some of the Mauser rifles they had to be useful to the troops again. These rifles were to have a CETME barrel installed, rear sights that could be used to train troops on the CETME’s sight picture, the cetme flash hider, the cetme triple front frame, and the cetme bayonet.
These rifles were used for training, and later sold as hunting rifles in Spain.
They converted a few different Mausers for this purpose. They converted the large ring 8mm K98 style M43 Mausers into FR8s, and they converted there old Small ring 7mm M1916 Mausers into FR7s.
from a distance they look identical. Up close, you can see that the fr7 has a bent bolt, small ring action, and the lack of a pistol grip on the stock. The FR8 usually has a straight bolt handle, large ring action, and it has the pistol grip from the M43 converted stock.
These are wonderful rifles to have if you are a fan of the CETME rifle.
Both the FR7 and FR8 were meant to shoot full power 7.62 x 51MM NATO ammo. They can also shoot the lesser power CETME CSP-003 ammo, but were made to shoot NATO.
here are pictures



are the FR7, FR8, M1916, M1916 Guardia Civil, M43 Mausers, or the CETME Curio and Relic eligible??

They are NOT on the eligible list published by the ATF
They however ARE eligible if they are more than 50 years old
This means any firearm made before 1953 is C&R eligible. After January 1st of 2004, then it would be any rifle older than 1954

where’s the best place to buy a Cetme?
there isn’t a best place to buy a cetme. These rifles were imported as real Spanish cetme machine guns to a bonded warehouse in the United States held by century arms. Then, by law, century had to cut the full auto receiver out of the gun and dispose of it in a way it couldn’t be reassembled later.
Now, you have what’s called a parts kit, which was a machine gun that just got demilled into parts.
>From there, the wizards assemble these parts onto there us made receiver, and add a few us made parts to it, and then they market it and sell it to lots of online distributors like aim, SOG, FAC, etc.
Aim, SOG, FAC, or any other online distributor does not make these, century arms makes these so your chance of getting a good rifle isn’t going to improve by ordering from any online vendor cause the rifles all come from the same place. Many vendors like Federal Arms ( offer handpick firearms for a small price, and you can improve your chances of getting a better cetme by doing that, BUT, if you just order it blind from a vendor who bought the gun from century arms, the quality, and niceness of the firearm is just a gamble at best.

I want to build a cetme, or an hk, can anyone tell me what I need to do?
This is one of those builds that are not easy for the home gun owner
it involves alot of precision welding (preferably tig) on thin sheet metal (very easy to burn through). To do it correctly, you also need a spot welder.

It may also require a hydraulic press to press a barrel in and out of the trunnion for headspacing / bolt gap.
It also requires a press to press the barrel retaining pin out if you need to adjust headspace/bolt gap.

feeler gauges to measure bolt gap

a torch to permanently attach the muzzle device with 1100 degrees silver solder per BATF

if you know how to do all this stuff, then it may be possible for you to build one, but if that’s the case, you probably wont need to know how cause you will be able to look at the parts kit and completely understand. Here is a decent article explaining how one person built his rifle but no pictures

here is another article with pictures but no text (Link dead) Maybe if enought people ask they will put it back

if you are wanting a cetme but don’t want the risks, contact a qualified gunsmith that works on cetme rifles and ask them for build price
try these folks

Premium Member
415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
faq part 3


This will help identify Spanish ammunition. If anybody can add to this please feel free to contact a Moderator.

CETME 7.62 is the downloaded cartridge and is NOT the same as Spanish NATO 7.62. Here is the spec sheet for the CETME round.

Two different box labels.

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What to look for when buying a CETME
By Perro Del Diablo

So, you're interested in the Cetme rifle!!!! Your ready to go out and spend your hard earned money one of these fine battle rifles but your scared because either you do not know what to look for, or you've heard alot of horror stories. Hopefully this will answer a few of your questions - this list is not all inclusive, but the problems that me and my friends have found with the cetme rifle.

first off, let me say that if you haven't read my review of this rifle on my web page - you need to read this first - do that by clicking here

#1 and the biggest thing you should check on any new rifle is the condition of the bore!!!!! this will be one of the largest factors that will affect accuracy. to check the bore on this rifle - pull the charging handle all the way to the rear and lock it into the notch on the cocking tube - look into the ejection port and make sure that the weapon is unloaded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! then take a piece of paper and stuff it up into the bottom of the magazine well - lift the weapon up until it is horizontal with the ground and the magazine well is facing up towards a light. carefully look through the end of the barrel through the muzzle brake - you should see a bright shiny chromy bore all the way through - you should see strong prominent rifling that is sharp all the way through. if it is frosty and not shiny then this barrel is used, or pitted from rust!!!!
century puts a muzzle brake on the end of the cetme, and the way that they do it is by screwing the brake onto the barrel until it seats - then they drill a hole through the muzzle brake and into the barrel (but not into the bore) they then take a pin and tap it into the hole, and high temp solder the pin so that it cannot be removed, they then grind the pin flush with the muzzle brake, and paint it. I have personally seen where they have drilled too far and into the bore - at first sight, it just looked like a small hole and the pin didn't protrude - but upon range testing my friend couldn't achieve anything better than a 24" grouping - yes that is correct - 2 feet groups! we stuck a cleaning rod into the barrel and it barely hung up on the pin - you couldn't see the pin by eye but the rod was hanging up on it - THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS THING!!!!! while inspecting your bore, if you see anything in the bore that resembles a hole, or a pin about 1/2 to 1 inch into the barrel in roughly the 6 o clock position - either do not buy it, or send it back immediately!!!!!!! i shouldn't have to explain what could happen if a high powered .308 bullet was to strike this. I wish someone at century would say hey, lets stop putting pins through the muzzlebrake and just high temp solder these things on!!!!!

#2 shoulder the unloaded rifle and look down the sites - if the sight hood appears to be canted at all, do not buy it, or send it back!!!! this will affect windage horribly!!!
take the rifle and set the buttpad on the floor and look at the sighting from the front also!!!! this can be fixed easily by a smith or by century so if this appears to be the only thing wrong with it, id consider maybe keeping it and having it sent in to fix it - all they have to do is remove the pin that holds the front sight assembly, and heat it up to melt the solder, rotate it a little bit, and then re-pin it

#3 cycle the action all the way back and rest the charging handle into the notch on the cocking tube - then slap the charging handle and let it SLAM home!!! flip the rifle upside down until you are looking through the bottom of the magazine well - the bolt should be fully locked and there should be no gap between the bolt carrier, and bolt head.
if there is a gap between the bolt carrier and bolt head, the rifle WILL NOT FIRE!!! this is a safety feature built into the rifle - if the bolt is not in battery, the firing pin will not reach the primer of the round!!!! do not let the vendor tell you differently!!!! please note that these receivers are new, and sometimes the action is rough, and the bolt will not seat all the way for the first 10 or so chargings - id charge it 10 times, and if the bolt doesn't seat, don't buy it, or send it back - maybe try oiling it and then charging it - either way it should seat within 10 tries! do not be afraid of letting the bolt slam home - this is the correct way to charge it - do not ease it home because the bolt wont seat right.
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#4 check the orientation of the paddle wheel rear site - rotate the paddle wheel through all 4 settings, and make sure that it "clicks" on each setting - the paddle wheel has spring-loaded ball bearings that rest in each of the holes on the a frame rear site housing - if it doesn't produce a noticeable click, look at the a frame closely and see if its bent at all - wiggle the paddle wheel site left and right and see if there is any play in it - if this is loose, you will have to manually reset the paddle wheel after each round because the sight will move from the recoil. next take the paddle wheel and set it for the 100 meter combat v - hold the rifle out in your lap and parallel with the ground - the paddle wheel should not be at 90 degrees straight up and down - it should be canted slightly forward when locked in the 100 meter position - if it sits slightly backwards then they have the paddle wheel mounted backwards and this will affect accuracy!!!!! trust me it will - even if its zeroed out backwards - it will affect accuracy at different ranges. The easiest way to check for proper mounting of the paddle wheel is to shoulder the rifle - set the sight to the 100 meter combat v - then looking at the rear sight rotate it backwards towards you and the first setting should be 200 meters - if you rotate the site forward to the front of the rifle, the first setting after 100 should be the 400 meter peep.

Premium Member
415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
faq part 4

#5 take the rifle still fully assembled and take the grip frame and move it left / right forward / aft - it should not have much play in it if any at all - if its sloppy, either 1 it is not installed correctly or there is a problem with the spacing of the shelf that they weld into it. note, there will be an air gap between the grip frame, and the receiver, this is normal.

#6 take some dummy rounds (the kind that they sell at gun stores with the springs in them) load a few into the magazine. then take the charging handle and pull it all the way back and rest it into the notch on the cocking tube. insert the magazine into the mag well, and give it a good slap on the bottom - try to move the magazine around and try to get it to unseat - if it does, you may need to spread the metal part on the magazine where the mag release sets into - once you are happy with it seating, try to remove the magazine, it should pop right out - if not, you may need to file the magazine stops on it until it fits "just right". once satisfied with the fit of the magazine, take the charging handle and cycle all the dummy rounds through the magazine - they should eject out of the rifle - if they don't there is a problem in the trigger pack - most likely with the ejector. the rifle may still eject the round when fired, but it should eject them with just hand charging.

#7 check the visible welds around the front of the receiver where the cocking tube is attached for cracks - this area is painted with bake able lacquer so the cracks may not be visible without close inspection - they fire 5 test rounds at century before they ship the rifle - if there are cracks in this weld, you should see them with close inspection. these welds could be easily filled by a professional welder later on.

if all of this checks out, i would take the rifle apart and clean it thoroughly - checking the condition of all the bolt parts - used is ok as long as there are no cracks in it.

if everything is kosher with the above, and you are happy with the appearance of it, i would say buy it.

BEFORE YOU FIRE THIS RIFLE, IT MIGHT BE SMART OF YOU TO HAVE A PROFESSIONAL GUNSMITH CHECK THE HEADSPACING!!!!!! this costs like $20.00 and is insurance that your rifle will not explode when firing it!!!! the light .308 NATO surplus load still produces around 50,000 psi of chamber pressure - this could destroy your rifle if the head-space isn't right, and it could hurt, or kill you!!!!!! Century claims that they head-space the rifle before it leaves the factory - it is of my opinion that $20.00 for a second opinion is a whole lot cheaper than the $100,000.00 the hospital is going to charge you to reattach your arm when it gets blown off from receiver shrapnel - i will not preach safety to you, but this is one thing i highly suggest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if you are mechanically inclined and want to check the head-spacing yourself, here's how to do it.
go to pep boys or some other automotive store and pick you up a set of metric feeler gauges. make sure the rifle is not loaded, then pull the charging handle all the way to the rear and make sure the chamber is empty.
slap the charging handle and let the bolt slam home on its own power - do not assist it, or keep it from flying forward at full speed. Once this is accomplished, flip the rifle upside down to where you are looking at the bolt and carrier through the mag-well.
insert your feeler gauges 1 at a time until you find the range where one fits and one don't
dont force it in there, just stick it in the gap between the bolt and carrier.
there should be NOTHING in the chamber while doing this - NO BULLETS, NO BRASS, NO HEADSPACE GUAGE!!!!!!!
this rifle was designed to be headspaced with feeler guages and nothing else.
this is the procedure described in the armorers manual so follow it.

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Premium Member
415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
last part hopefully!

there are 5 different receivers - which one should i buy????
i have the cast stainless steel special weapons receivered cetme. when i bought it, i thought that i was getting a new rifle - the advertisement said new refinished rifles in excellant condition - when i first pulled it out of the box, i got that sinking feeling in my stomach and fealt like throwing up - it was by far in no ways new and excellant - since then i have worked this rifle over to the point to where i consider it excellant - even though it had awful cosmetic problems, i took it home anyway - and have had zero failures to feed, zero failures to eject zero failures to fire in over 1000 rounds - a few of my other friends have bought cetmes that were beautiful eye candy, but have had horrible mechanical problems. i feel lucky that mine is a sub moa rifle with a $35.00 scope and i dont care how crappy it looks (or looked) as long as it shoots right.
my whole point that im trying to make here is that it really doesnt matter what type of receiver you get - the people that assemble these rifles are gorillas that imho are NOT gunsmiths - occasionally you will find a perfect rifle, but odds are, you will most likely end up with something that is going to need to be fixed somehow or is not EXCELLANT AND NEW as advertised - it is my opinion that i would own any of the g3/cetme receivers as long as it functioned perfectly.

the following is just my opinions - it is not necessarily what is right for you - each receiver will be followed with me and my friends experiances with them - note this is just opinions on the receiver - not the rifle as a whole

first i will start with the federal arms corporation aluminum receiver
this receiver claims that it does not need welding - i have seen a few that are - i dont know if youre familiar with metallurgy - but it is rather hard to weld steel parts to an aluminum receiver and the result is cracked welds after a good workout (less than 1000 rounds in the receiver that i saw) if they do not weld the cocking tube to the rifle they attach it by a special kit. . these receivers are extremely unpleasing to the eye in MY opinion - there are a couple of positive things that i see with the federal arms receiver - 1 it is aluminum and is lighter weight, which could be pretty cool if you were going for light weight, and 2 it has a scope rail forged in - this is kinda handy and saves alot of money when trying to add optics to your rifle. supposedly federal arms has a new aluminum receiver out that is much more pleasing to the eye.

then there is the hesse receiver - it is a stamped sheetmetal receiver that is flat at first and they bend it and roll it until it becomes a receiver - then they turn it upside down and weld a seem down it. now this is the way the original g3 and hk 91 receivers were made. this receiver is made out of steel which is prone to rusting - it is not stainless steel. i have seen 3 of the hesse receivers - 1 friend of mine has shot over 1500 rounds through it with zero problems - another friend has shot 350 rounds through it and the welds are cracking on his receiver - it also has numerous ftf fte problems. and yet another friend has one of these that he has sent back 4 times, and has had to pay a decent amount of coin to the local hk smith to keep it going - this rifle sits in his gunsafe, and might as well be used for a paper weight. hesse made some fals a while back - the armorer i deal with showed me one of these rifles, and the inside of the receiver was shot!!! the owner took it out 1 time - he told me that he has sent back more hesse receivers than he has sold, and refuses to work on these at all.
the advantages of this receiver is that it is rolled and formed like the original g3 receiver - it uses g3 parts which are easier to find than cetme parts - a g3 scope mount will fit on most of these with zero fitting required - it also uses the g3 rotating drum sight which is adjustable for windage.

then there is the cast stainless steel receiver of the special weapons design - i have had absolutely zero problems with this receiver - my friend has just received a new cetme with this receiver - his bolt group is freshly parked, and had a problem with getting his bolt to go into battery all the time - upon cleaning all of the gunk out of the inside of the receiver and hand charging it a couple hundred of times it works flawlessly. there seems to be a problem with the fitting of the trigger pack on these - it seems as though the holes that were drilled into the receiver for the trigger pack, and buttstock housing do not line up all the time - i think that this problem lies with the holes in the receiver not the holes in the buttstock housing - these areas sometimes need to be massaged with a dremmel to get the pins to fit correctly - most will tell you tight is really good, however too tight is not that wonderful - it has been reported that the tightness weres off after a while. it also seems that the magazine release hole was not drilled in the exact same spot as the g3 therefore - sometimes you will encounter a cetme that will not take all magazines - sometimes the mags fit too tight, sometimes they fit too loose - some will use both cetme and hk - some will use only cetme. this is made of cast stainless steel which is alot thicker than its sheetmetal cousin, therefore fitting a g3 scope mount to it requires a little modification to the mount with the dremmel tool. this receiver uses the original cetme paddle wheel sight which is not adjustable for windage - all elevation, and windage is adjustable through the front sight post. the benefits that i see of using this receiver is that it is thicker cast stainless steel, so it should not wear out as fast as the thinner receivers. also it is much much more rust resistant due to the stainless steel. all of the stainless ones ive seen still have perfect welds.
i have a friend that bought one of centuries first 100 cetme stainless receivers - his serial number is under 100 - he has put well over 4000 rounds through his, and is still as nice as it was new - this was the main motivator for me getting the stainless steel one.

then there is the king of receivers - the fmp - this receiver is an actual hk contract made receiver - it is in spec as to where the others are not.
i havent been lucky enough to own one or know any one whos owned one to review it - the bad things that i can see about this receiver is the price - they are far more cash than the others - i also think that the ones made here now are stamped flats that are rolled and formed here in the states - not on hk machining. i wish i could give you the review on this - the man to ask about the fmp would be mwdg3 - if im not mistaken, he has one of these.

Century Arms has recently introduced a new stamped steel receiver that is more like the original. I have seen it, and i think i like it - i will order one and give a better review later
to see the difference between the new stamped receiver and the stainless, click
the welds on this receiver are really poor. There is also a hole in the top of the receiver - this hole is used to mount the HK/G3 rear sight on the hk models that they use this receiver on. i have also heard of bad problems getting magazines to lock in this receiver correctly??
good things, its almost just like the original in looks, and its steel so it can be parkerized
plus its cheaper.

i have been as objective as i can about all the receivers including my own - hopefully you can make an informed decision on what you want, and what works for you - not all of the above receivers have these problems, and some have more problems then what ive listed - this is just my experiance - it is my opinion as stated above that any receiver would be good as long as it functions correctly.

as far as the difference between the g3 rotating drum, and the cetme paddlewheel, ive looked through both - they both have the exact same sight picture - they both have the crappy combat v, and 3 other peepsights - the real difference between the 2 besides the looks is the fact that the g3 is adjustable for windage, where the cetme is not - the cetme is adjustable for windage on the front sight post - most older rifles like the sks and other rifles are all windage adjustable from the front - its just nice to have the windage in the rear.

if you can find a cetme that works - the receiver might not be that big of a thing as far as brand - you need to figure out what seems best for you - and if you get a turd, send it back - i can however promise you that once you do get a working cetme - you will be most pleased!!! it is a great rifle!!!!
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