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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

I am contemplating the process of mounting one of the S&K no drill - no tap scope mounts on my No 1 MK 3. I would use one of the aftermarket synthetic fore ends, but would not change the butt stock. I have no qualms about modifying the synthetic fore end to suit the scope mount, but of course would not consider modifying the original.

My question is, what effect should I expect this to have on accuracy? I'm not at all sure what removing the handguard, barrel bands, nosecap, etc might have.

Has anyone done something similar? Any opinions, cautions, etc?

TIA
 

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It will affect accuracy as the fore end puts pressure on the barrel. I don't know how much or what to do about it because I just shoot tin-cans and neighbors (kidding!) with my Lee's. Someone else should have a much better answer for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It will affect accuracy as the fore end puts pressure on the barrel. I don't know how much or what to do about it because I just shoot tin-cans and neighbors (kidding!) with my Lee's. Someone else should have a much better answer for you.


Thanks - I guess it'll be trial & error then.
 

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Trial and error would be your best bet. You should try it as is, shooting a couple of groups from cold and record what it does. The good thing is, if you need to change anything, modern bedding compounds can be used in the synthetic stock with no loss of sleep- especially if the original wood set is safe and warm.

Fit it up, test it and let us know the results. eg; what it does as it heats up during shooting. If it needs work, you'll probably get some suggestions on where to start.
 

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I played around with the spring loaded barrel band screw the No.1 Mk.III* has mid barrel on my 1918 SSA rifle.

At least on my rifle, the screw worked a bit like a Browning "Boss" muzzle attachment. I could vary the amount of tension on the screw, and change the size of the groups?

Didn't so much change the point of aim, but I could vary the group size substantialy. I found a heavier spring that would fit, and tried that. Managed to get some really decent iron sight groups with the new spring, and just left it like it was.

Yes, probably a trial and error deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Trial and error would be your best bet. You should try it as is, shooting a couple of groups from cold and record what it does. The good thing is, if you need to change anything, modern bedding compounds can be used in the synthetic stock with no loss of sleep- especially if the original wood set is safe and warm.

Fit it up, test it and let us know the results. eg; what it does as it heats up during shooting. If it needs work, you'll probably get some suggestions on where to start.



Yep - the original wood (& steel) is safe.
I'll just charge ahead & see what happens.
I expect the group to move - I just hope it doesn't expand too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I played around with the spring loaded barrel band screw the No.1 Mk.III* has mid barrel on my 1918 SSA rifle.

At least on my rifle, the screw worked a bit like a Browning "Boss" muzzle attachment. I could vary the amount of tension on the screw, and change the size of the groups?

Didn't so much change the point of aim, but I could vary the group size substantialy. I found a heavier spring that would fit, and tried that. Managed to get some really decent iron sight groups with the new spring, and just left it like it was.

Yes, probably a trial and error deal.


Since there is no band screw on the synthetic stock, I intend to try various temporary shims under the fore-end tip, etc.
 

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Merle

On a Remington 700 with standard bedding and shorter stock the fore end tip had 3 to 9 pounds of up pressure, the longer fore stock on the No.4 has 2 to 7 pounds of up pressure.

If you do not reload the up pressure can be used to “tune” the group size by changing the amount of up pressure.

 

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Merle

On a Remington 700 with standard bedding and shorter stock the fore end tip had 3 to 9 pounds of up pressure, the longer fore stock on the No.4 has 2 to 7 pounds of up pressure.

If you do not reload the up pressure can be used to “tune” the group size by changing the amount of up pressure.


Thanks for the info, that gives me someplace to start. I do reload, but this No. 1 has a "generous" chamber, and I haven't yet decided if it is worth the trouble. I may have to resort to forming brass (with a secondary shoulder for headspacing) just to suit it, once I finish off my MILSURP ammo. I have reserved the rest of my South African for it, since it is Berdan primed & I'm too lazy to reload it.
 

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Merle

A Canadian posted this in another forum and I think its worth trying, the Canadian stated that they used a O-ring at the base of the case to fire form cases on Enfield’s with excess headspace. This pushes the base of the case into the boltface for “zero” head gap clearance when fired and no case stretching.

It would work for fire forming no matter what the headspace setting was at, and would be easier than creating a false shoulder. I think aircraft grade hydraulic o-rings would be the best or the toughest and most long lasting.
(pictured are automotive type o-rings)
 
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