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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I joined the club of Nagant owners. Mine is dated 1944 with an arrow in a triangle. Izhevsk? Haven't taken it completely apart yet but bore and chambers are nice and shiney. Trigger pull in SA is heavy as expected. I'll have to work on that.

I got the cleaning tools, lanyard, and holster too. It's a pretty tight fit in the holster. I have to work at getting the leather strap over the brass stud to close the flap. This holster is the coated fabric kind. Is there anything I can do to stretch the holster? Maybe just leave the gun in it for a while?
 

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Welcome to the club. Don't keep your Nagant in a holster for storage, unless you want to wear off the bluing.

You can try stuffing the holster with newspaper and keeping it somewhere warm (not hot!) for a few days. Leather shrinks as it dries, so you can try dressing the lock strap with neatsfoot oil or the like. Just don't use any leather treatment that uses petroleum-based solvents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments.

I took the sideplate off last night and disassembled the trigger mechanism. Looks like new!

I lightly stoned the sear surfaces because they were a little rough. That improved the trigger pull a little but I think I'm going to try the spacer between the spring and trigger guard method.

As I understand it, cocking the hammer increases the force on both the hammer and the trigger since the spring can pivot. Putting in a spacer keeps the spring from pivoting and so keeps the trigger force from increasing as you cock the hammer. Only problem might be that the force on the hammer will get higher and maybe fatigue the spring faster.
 

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Thanks for the comments.

I took the sideplate off last night and disassembled the trigger mechanism. Looks like new!

I lightly stoned the sear surfaces because they were a little rough. That improved the trigger pull a little but I think I'm going to try the spacer between the spring and trigger guard method.

As I understand it, cocking the hammer increases the force on both the hammer and the trigger since the spring can pivot. Putting in a spacer keeps the spring from pivoting and so keeps the trigger force from increasing as you cock the hammer. Only problem might be that the force on the hammer will get higher and maybe fatigue the spring faster.
I've never seen problems with the spacer system. Many original guns from the twenties had this done, but I doubt that you would ever see a refurb gun done this way.

The other option is to get a spare mainspring and thin the lower leaf. This also works pretty well.

Joe
 

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Great on the new Nagant. I will be able to pick mine up tomorrow (10 day waiting period in California). It is a 1938 dated one. I have some ammo already and want to shoot the thing. :D
 

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I also got a Izhevsk 1944 recently. Mine came from SOG and had orgianl wood grips. Unfortunately the bore is dark, but the rifling seems to be strong.

The best way to get the holster to close is to wet the leather closure tab with hot water. Close it with the pistol in the holster. I might take a bit of massaging to get the flap in the sweet spot and get the tab over the stud. Let it dry over night and then oil the tab with neatsfoot oil or baseball glove oil.

It should hold its shape after that and be easier to close.

I've done this with 5 holsters and none have torn or broken.
 

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Leather Preservative

I don't recommend neatsfoot oil. I have used Lexol Preservative and Lexol Cleaner for many years with satisfaction. Pecard's leather products have also been highly recommended to me. Both can often be found in shoe repair shops if you want to make a trial run.

Bruce
 

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Hey, man -
Welcome to the family. Just picked up my Tula '31 yesterday - I'm glad to finally be part of the family as well. I'll probably spend the better part of tomorrow decosmolining it so I can try it out on Sunday. Can't wait for the .32acp cylinder to arrive - I should be able to use 'er a bit more then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I used a piece of quarter inch dowel as a spacer for the main spring. That made the trigger pull much more reasonable. I might try to fire off a few rounds (Hot Shot brand) tomorrow, weather permitting. It's going down in the negative double digits tonight here in western Pa.

I soaked the holster strap in hot water and fastened it. I also stuffed some cloth under the flap to stretch the strap even more. We'll see how it works after it dries.
 

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Hi Guys,

WELCOME to the club!

We have some advanced collectors here & a bunch of shooters TOO!

I learn something new to me almost every day here.

Please read over the old posts & the disassembly notes at the top of the page. I was able to get a few really ugly triggers down to something useable.

HA -HA - I learned that the loading latch pivoted down aganist the frame helped aline the cylinder so I can push out my emptys correctly.
I have a Nagant revolver for YEARS & always fought to locate the cylinder hole & ejector rod till some one posted a note on the board. (Blushing at my dumbness!)

Do think about reloading for this revolver. It's more fun to shoot, if it is not costing a arm & a leg.

Be safe,
point6
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After soaking the holster strap in hot water and overstuffing the holster, it's much easier to get the strap over the stud.

I've found that putting a .220 thick spacer between the trigger guard strap and the main spring will lighten the trigger pull about as much as possible. If I go any thicker the trigger doesn't have enough force to rebound the hammer and retract the block. I guess Mssrs. Nagant designed in the heavy trigger pull to make sure the hammer would rebound even if the cartridge heads were pressed back against the block after firing. After dry firing the Nagant a few times, my old Colt Official Police feels like a target pistol!
 

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Great gun. Save wear & tear on the latch & use a wooden dowel to knock out the spent brass. Plus, you can shoot 32 S&W longs & 32 H&Rs all day w/out a problem. Lot cheaper than the Hotshot @ 29.95 a box.
Hi Greyfox,

You or I still have to open the cylinder latch to knock out the shell cases.

I do use a wood dowel / chopstick to knock out the cases. I sometimes did forget to lock the ejector rod back in place. (sad face)
I have replaced the metal cleaning rod on the holster with a wood chopstick & drilled a hole in it to take the metal lanyard clip.
It stays with the holster, but is long enough to use when I shoot.

Best to you,
point6
 

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Hi Greyfox,

You or I still have to open the cylinder latch to knock out the shell cases.

I do use a wood dowel / chopstick to knock out the cases. I sometimes did forget to lock the ejector rod back in place. (sad face)
I have replaced the metal cleaning rod on the holster with a wood chopstick & drilled a hole in it to take the metal lanyard clip.
It stays with the holster, but is long enough to use when I shoot.

Best to you,
point6
Great idea..Thanks.
 
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