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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just scored my first luger. It appears to be a military proofed 1917 DWM with a 1920 double date. I don't think its fully matching. What are the cross out unit markings as well as the ST 10 on the back of the grip?
 

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Of all the various handguns I'v fired over the years, the Luger is one that has eluded me over the years. And the funny part is that as a kid I literally drooled over though shotgun news and the advertisements. Hopefully get one before they shovel the dirt over me. Frank
 

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The 1920 indicates the pistol could be retained via the Versailles Treaty. That limited the head count and weapons that the Germany could keep after the Great War. Someone with more knowledge than I can provide will tell you what unit the crossed out marking was for.
 

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In 1964 I purchased my first handgun, a Luger for which I spent the large sum of $20. It was a WWII model, all matching with totally pitted bore from not being cleaned after shooting corrosive ammo. I still have it today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I scored this one for $1400, the bore on this is fantastic. How did i do?
 

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On the XXX'd out rear grip strap markings, there are a couple possibilities. the "A." may represent either "Feldartillerie-Regiment" or "Arbeiter-Abteilung" (work detachment). the "J. R." is often "Infantrie-Regiment" or possibly "Jaeger-Battalion Rekrutendepot". Since a battalion would be either Infantry or Artillery, likely the "Work Detachment" of Infantry or Feldartillerie Recruit Depot" would apply. The "ST.10." (likely post-WW1 applied) stamping I show reported as "St." If they are one in the same, the marking would represent "Bayerisches Strafanstalten Waffen Nr. 10" (Bavarian Prison weapon #10). Since there were a lot of troublemakers in the lockup during the turbulent, early post-WW1 era, the marking seems logical.
Information attributed to: "The Imperial German Regimental Marking" by Jeff Noll 1998.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On the XXX'd out rear grip strap markings, there are a couple possibilities. the "A." may represent either "Feldartillerie-Regiment" or "Arbeiter-Abteilung" (work detachment). the "J. R." is often "Infantrie-Regiment" or possibly "Jaeger-Battalion Rekrutendepot". Since a battalion would be either Infantry or Artillery, likely the "Work Detachment" of Infantry or Feldartillerie Recruit Depot" would apply. The "ST.10." (likely post-WW1 applied) stamping I show reported as "St." If they are one in the same, the marking would represent "Bayerisches Strafanstalten Waffen Nr. 10" (Bavarian Prison weapon #10). Since there were a lot of troublemakers in the lockup during the turbulent, early post-WW1 era, the marking seems logical.
Information attributed to: "The Imperial German Regimental Marking" by Jeff Noll 1998.
Thank you for the awesome information. That is really cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Would this have possibly left Germany before WW2 since there aren't any waffenempts on the pistol?
 

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$1400? If it is matching minus mag then you did great. Visible #'s seem to match, decent halo's and so if a couple of #'s don't match for a Luger with a great bore you have a real good shooter in which case for the price you paid you still did good. If I was looking for a shooter I probably would have bought it. Congrats and enjoy!
Jim
 

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Grips are non-original/after market. On 1917 DWM other numbered parts are: breech block, trigger, safety lever, hold-open and the firing pin (unfluted type). Original grips were numbered as well.
 

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$1400 was a premium price, considering the replacement grips.
You didn't get ripped off, either.
Not making any more of them and they are in demand.
Less easy to accumulate anymore with the prices.
 

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I am not 100% sure that side plate is original to the pistol. Mike is correct, $1400 is on the very upper limit for this P.08. For a few $$$ more one can find a very nice 1923 Commercial Luger which in my opinion is the best way to enter Parabellum world. Quality on those is better than more common 1920 Alphabet model and .30 Luger will be more accurate and pleasant to shoot, not to mention generally more reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I may have paid a premium but I'm pretty excited about this 9mm luger. It should be fun to shoot.
 

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If original, DWMs will have a 19 coil spring and Mausers will have 21 (except for the very early ones). I always put a 19 coil spring in every Luger I intend to shoot, this way ammo can be loaded to a weaker level, just enough to cycle the action. I haven't bought a factory loaded ammo in years, but in the past I've had best results with Blazer Brass 115 or 124 grain. The best mags are Nazi extruded type or an older Mec Gar with chromed follower.
 

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I am not 100% sure that side plate is original to the pistol. Mike is correct, $1400 is on the very upper limit for this P.08. For a few $$$ more one can find a very nice 1923 Commercial Luger which in my opinion is the best way to enter Parabellum world. Quality on those is better than more common 1920 Alphabet model and .30 Luger will be more accurate and pleasant to shoot, not to mention generally more reliable.


The problem with the commercial 30 cal. Lugers is that many guys just dont want them.

Most do not have any military history (service time) since most were made in the post war era.

Selling them is even harder.........and just how cheap is that 30 cal. ammo compared to 9mm?

Condition wise........yes they tend to be in really nice shape.

In the end, I'd still take the OP's 1917/20 DWM over a commercial cream puff any day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The problem with the commercial 30 cal. Lugers is that many guys just dont want them.

Most do not have any military history (service time) since most were made in the post war era.

Selling them is even harder.........and just how cheap is that 30 cal. ammo compared to 9mm?

Condition wise........yes they tend to be in really nice shape.

In the end, I'd still take the OP's 1917/20 DWM over a commercial cream puff any day.
I am with you on that, i rather have a military 9mm over a commercial 30 luger
 
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