Depends where you are located.
You can buy an aftermarket trigger or try contact Ken @ Kebco or Allan's @ Allan Armory if you are in the US of A. I am scared you will have to buy the whole trigger, though. Still a chance you realized it before trying it with a live round and this should serve as a lesson to anybody who wants to play thermselves with their trigger.
Yes, definitely learned it before inserting a live round. I'm my defense, I've done several trigger jobs on my own guns before, including a 1640 that turned out perfect ... I just have to claim stupidity on this one; I got carried away, worked too quickly and removed a hair too much. That's the risk we take when we work on our own stuff - but the hours of enjoyment are absolutely worth it to me.
Well, except polishing the mating surfaces, I would not suggest anybody working on the lenghts / angles of the trigger mechanism. A good polishing (not in excess) usually solves had trigger pull. Changing the trigger spring may also be an option, but again, it's better left to a competent gunsmith.
FWIW The sear and cocking piece engagement angles and depth and even the trigger pressure are very important and most safety issues come from fooling with them.
The sear rest should be around 0.110"- 0.120" and the trigger pressure should never be under 3 1/2 pounds with a Mauser style trigger.
Anyhow, playing with sear height and going below the above specs is a risky business. After any grinding is done, to make things right, the sear should be re-heat treated anyways, as it can cause premature wear and accidental discharge.