Do all 28/30s have an aluminum sleeve on the barrel?
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That’s a part of the design, inspired by the Swiss.
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Not all of mine have one.
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Was under the impression that they all were included at build. During overhaul some were removed? The Stock must be inletted for the sleeve. Think I have one that does not have it. The other exception but have no proof just a very foggy memory is that it might of been discontinued at the very end of production? I might also be confusing this with the decision to leave it out of the then coming M39 contracts? A while ago the aluminum sleeve would occasionally show up for sale on the loose. I never considered replacing the one I think is missing. Regards, John.
The very first m/28-30s that retained use of the m/28 front sight did not have them. The sleeve became standard in production 1934-1940. Seems they were removed from rifles refurbished after the war during the refinishing process. I’m sure they were left out of the m/39 design as a cost savings initiative.
Mine all have it. I think the intent was to make sure the bbl can expand freely and not be stuck to the stock at the front band. In a M39, if you tighten the front band really tight, POI will shift down as the bbl heats and up as it cools as the bbl cannot freely expand due to the stock holding it back.
Then again, the M28/30 does not have the split M39 style front band so it could not get tight there anyway.
Then again, the M28/30 does not have the split M39 style front band so it could not get tight there anyway.
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Also the machined aluminum ring would provide a more precise seating for the barrel than could probably be done in the wood. And, as Daniel39 says, the barrel is free to expand and move a bit. I've run into several Lee Enfield No. 4 rifles where the portion of barrel resting on the forend tip wasn't free to jump up off the wood with each shot and then return to the same resting position- with resulting poor accuracy. Regarding the Swiss rifles, I believe the K11 had the bushing but it was dropped with the K31?
Ruprecht
Ruprecht
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Correct: Swiss M1911 "Langgewehr" (long rifle) and the K11 have the aluminum barrel sleeve. The K31 dispensed with that system and the front of the barrel rests on a ledge in the stock channel that provides some up pressure. Without it the rifle is a scatter gun.
Pic shows a Swiss K31 stock that is warped. The ledge at the end of the stock channel was pressing on the side of the barrel instead of the bottom. Unlike the No 4's barrel, the K31 barrel is not free to move up a bit from its resting position.
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Makes you wonder how many of those sleeves wound up on the floor of Pat Burns shop?
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I suspect more disappeared in the caustic tank when the barreled actions were reblued.
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Neither of my 28/30’s had the sleeve
This. Seems the arsenals did not bother to unsolder the front sights during blue/black dip finish so the alloy sleeve would’ve just dissolved away.
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Yes: the sleeve should allow the barrel to move inside it. The Finn's were inspired to use the sleeve by the Swiss straight-pull rifles before the K31. The barrels of these rifles are rather thin for a rifle with the capability of a high rate of fire and they have considerable harmonic vibration. But the M28/30 has a rather thick and heavy barrel compared to the Swiss rifles, so evidently there was considerably less harmonics to deal with. The M39 deleted the barrel sleeve, as did the Swiss K31, which "preloaded" the barrel at the muzzle; see my post #11. However, the M39's barrel is a bit thinner than the M28/30's, and precision shooters would adjust the tightness of the upper barrel band screw to handle harmonics for better accuracy.
Thats good to know. I might need to relieve some wood around the sleeve,it looks like the barrel is pushed down,well its impossible to move the barrel in any direction anyhow. The top wood has warped a bit and is a tight fit.The Rifle dosnt shoot that well despite the decent bore, I put the relative inaccuracy down to me only trying one recipe with hand loads.If the barrel is under pressure its not going to be helping,I will start with relieving some of the top wood inside the barrel channer and see if that helps.
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That is not really a free floating barrel when it has a designed 'rest'. As everyone knows many Soviet snipers did a barrel wrap near the first stock band and Soviet manuals at that time gave instructions on how to do it. That pressure point in the 3 line rifle increases round predictability/accuracy by creating (imo) a repeatable somewhat consistent harmonic.
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My "expertise" is with the M39 bedding, so take my advice with some skepticism. Assuming the M28/30 bedding is identical to the M39's, follow this procedure.
1. Remove the bands, upper hand guard, and trigger/magazine housing.
2. Press down on the receiver tang (the area of the rear action screw) and observe if the action rocks. With the M39 correctly bedded, pressing down on the tang should rock the action slightly and raise the barrel up from its stock channel.
If nothing happens, you need a shim behind the receiver's recoil lug. The amount of shimming should allow the barrel to rise clear of the barrel channel. What is going on here is that by tightening the action screws in the right sequence: snug - not fully tighten - the rear tang screw first, then tighten the front action screw until the barrel lowers back into the stock channel. Then tighten the rear action screw fully, followed by the front screw. This tensions the birch stock.
I have come to the conclusion that the Finn's adopted this bedding technique as analog to Swiss rifle bedding. Although the Swiss went to town with machined forgings, they used a spring steel stamping for the trigger guard, and similar tensioning of the action screws lets the spring steel trigger guard work as a damper. The Finn's relied on the springiness of their birch stock wood to do the same.
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