Dismantling the Lockwork of the Nagant (The Secret of the blind hole):
I have not seen on the web so far any instructions for taking the Nagant lockwork apart. There are instructions for removing the cylinder, but the lockwork does not get any attention.
Over the years, I have noticed that few Nagant owners -even those with advanced collections - have ever noticed the blind hole, nor do they know how to use it.
So, unless you already know all this, brake out one of your M 95's and follow along:
ATTENTION! - Check your revolver to be sure it's not loaded. If you have any ammo, be sure it's locked away and kept safe from children.

1. First, remove the side plate screw from the right side of the revolver and pull off the side plate from the left. Sometimes, the side plate can be too tight. If so, place the screw back in the hole and turn it a few times. Then, give the screw a few light raps with a block of wood to knock the plate loose. remove the screw and take off the side plate.

2. With the hammer cocked, a threaded blind hole will be noticed above the main spring and below the tail of the hammer. Take the side plate screw and thread it into this hole(see white toothpick - in the image above).

3. Now, pull the trigger and hold it all the way back. With the trigger back, you will notice that the mainspring is being held by the side plate screw in the blind-hole. While holding the trigger all the way back, it is now possible to lift out the hammer. It may be necessary to move the hammer slightly back and forth if it is a tight fit. With the hammer removed, you may now release the trigger.

4. With the hammer removed and the trigger all the way forward, the tension of the mainspring is now being held by the side plate screw and the trigger guard. It is now possible to remove the hand, by pushing it back out of the slot in the frame and lifting it free of the trigger. You may now lift out the trigger.

5. As above, hold the trigger guard and loosen the trigger guard screw (see pointer). With the trigger guard screw about half way out, the trigger guard is free to move down pivoting upon the lower trigger guard stud. It has been suggested that the flat end of the mainspring may be used as a screwdriver for the trigger guard screw. I advise caution for you don't want to distort or brake the end of the spring if the screw is a tight fit.

6. With the trigger guard hinged down, it is possible to lift it free of the frame. The main spring may now be removed, though it may be necessary to take the side-plate screw out of the blind hole so you can work the mainspring back and forth a few times before to make it come out.
NOTE: The above instructions have covered the process for not only the gas-seal model 1895, but also the non-gas-seal Nagants, such as the 7.5 adopted by Sweden and Norway. In fact, these 7.5 MM Nagants have letters stamped into them (A., B., C., etc.) to guide you through the steps to take them apart.

7. It is now easy to remove the "hammer block" by pulling it out of it's grooves in the frame.

8. The "recoil plate" (breach block) may now be pivoted back out of the frame and lifted free.
9. With the lock work removed, it is possible to take the grip screws out and remove the grip plates. This is a good idea, for sometimes rust has started under the grips and a little cleaning and oiling may be in order.
TO REASSEMBLE:
DANGER!! BE SURE TO REPLACE THE HAMMER BLOCK AND RECOIL PLATE! IF THE NAGANT IS FIRED WITHOUT EITHER ONE OF THEM IT MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH!!!
Re-assemble in reverse order.

When you get to the point of replacing the trigger, be sure the tail of the trigger fits into the recess in the hammer block (see pointer above). The rest should be manageable.

By the way, the revolver used in the above demonstration was a Polish Ng.30 made at the Radom plant in 1935.
Best regards, and be safe.
Greg Crockett
I have not seen on the web so far any instructions for taking the Nagant lockwork apart. There are instructions for removing the cylinder, but the lockwork does not get any attention.
Over the years, I have noticed that few Nagant owners -even those with advanced collections - have ever noticed the blind hole, nor do they know how to use it.
So, unless you already know all this, brake out one of your M 95's and follow along:
ATTENTION! - Check your revolver to be sure it's not loaded. If you have any ammo, be sure it's locked away and kept safe from children.

1. First, remove the side plate screw from the right side of the revolver and pull off the side plate from the left. Sometimes, the side plate can be too tight. If so, place the screw back in the hole and turn it a few times. Then, give the screw a few light raps with a block of wood to knock the plate loose. remove the screw and take off the side plate.

2. With the hammer cocked, a threaded blind hole will be noticed above the main spring and below the tail of the hammer. Take the side plate screw and thread it into this hole(see white toothpick - in the image above).

3. Now, pull the trigger and hold it all the way back. With the trigger back, you will notice that the mainspring is being held by the side plate screw in the blind-hole. While holding the trigger all the way back, it is now possible to lift out the hammer. It may be necessary to move the hammer slightly back and forth if it is a tight fit. With the hammer removed, you may now release the trigger.

4. With the hammer removed and the trigger all the way forward, the tension of the mainspring is now being held by the side plate screw and the trigger guard. It is now possible to remove the hand, by pushing it back out of the slot in the frame and lifting it free of the trigger. You may now lift out the trigger.

5. As above, hold the trigger guard and loosen the trigger guard screw (see pointer). With the trigger guard screw about half way out, the trigger guard is free to move down pivoting upon the lower trigger guard stud. It has been suggested that the flat end of the mainspring may be used as a screwdriver for the trigger guard screw. I advise caution for you don't want to distort or brake the end of the spring if the screw is a tight fit.

6. With the trigger guard hinged down, it is possible to lift it free of the frame. The main spring may now be removed, though it may be necessary to take the side-plate screw out of the blind hole so you can work the mainspring back and forth a few times before to make it come out.
NOTE: The above instructions have covered the process for not only the gas-seal model 1895, but also the non-gas-seal Nagants, such as the 7.5 adopted by Sweden and Norway. In fact, these 7.5 MM Nagants have letters stamped into them (A., B., C., etc.) to guide you through the steps to take them apart.

7. It is now easy to remove the "hammer block" by pulling it out of it's grooves in the frame.

8. The "recoil plate" (breach block) may now be pivoted back out of the frame and lifted free.
9. With the lock work removed, it is possible to take the grip screws out and remove the grip plates. This is a good idea, for sometimes rust has started under the grips and a little cleaning and oiling may be in order.
TO REASSEMBLE:
DANGER!! BE SURE TO REPLACE THE HAMMER BLOCK AND RECOIL PLATE! IF THE NAGANT IS FIRED WITHOUT EITHER ONE OF THEM IT MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH!!!
Re-assemble in reverse order.

When you get to the point of replacing the trigger, be sure the tail of the trigger fits into the recess in the hammer block (see pointer above). The rest should be manageable.

By the way, the revolver used in the above demonstration was a Polish Ng.30 made at the Radom plant in 1935.
Best regards, and be safe.
Greg Crockett
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