Disassembling sidelocks, tips & clues, and what tools are necessary?

1122 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by DK PHILLIPS, Feb 18, 2012

Cookie

Discussion Starter · Feb 17, 2012

I have an L & R LPR flintlock that I would like to take apart. I know that there are spring vises available and I would like to get one of those, but looking around, I see some other gizmos that appear to be necessary.

I've tools for removing the hammer and pressing it back on. And also the screw for the hammer is very wide and has a very narrow slot.

Does anyone have any experience tinkering with sidelocks, flint or hammer, and what can I expect in trying to take one apart and put it back together again?

Here is the basic procedure from L & R from their page on the subject:

SEQUENCE OF LOCK DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove main spring: a. Hammer must be all the way down. b. Compress any spring only the amount necessary. Overstress will collapse or break it. A pair of pliers is best.
2. Remove stirrup: Take note that it hangs in the "S" position with small end in the tumbler. Any other position can cause damage! ("Z" position for left hand models only.)
3. Remove sear spring.
4. Remove sear screw and sear. (When reinstalling, tighten screw only until contact is made between bridle and sear. Then back up 1/4 turn, so sear will operate freely.)
5. Remove top bridle screw and bridle.
6. To remove the tumbler from the plate: a: Take out hammer screw. b: Using the jaws of a vise, tum the tumbler side of the plate down, with the vise jaws only far enough apart to allow the tumbler to fit freely. Now, using a punch that will just fit the square hammer hole, tap the tumbler out of the hammer. Caution: Keep track of the fly during this operation!
7. Remove fly from tumbler. (Take note of the fly's position regarding its beveled edge. It must be reinstalled in the same way.)
8. Remove frizzen spring screw and spring.
9. Remove frizzen pivot screw and frizzen.

LOCK REASSEMBLY

1. Install frizzen and pivot screw.
2. Install frizzen spring and screw.
3. Install fly in tumbler. (Remember the position of the beveled edge.)
4. Install tumbler in plate.
5. Install bridle and top screw.
6. Install sear and sear spring. (Remember about screw tension.)
7. Install stirrup so that it "hangs" properly.
8. Install main spring. (Be sure tumbler is in relaxed position, as if hammer were all the way down.)
9. With pliers or properly adjusted vise grips, tum the hammer pole to the "half cock" position. Press the hammer onto the tumbler. Install the hammer screw. If the hammer is properly tight on the tumbler, it should not be necessary to do more than "finger tighten" the hammer screw.
** If you are not certain how to proceed, or if you have any questions, PLEASE don't hesitate to call.**

The first thing I am looking for is a flat driver tip that is wide enough and narrow enough for the hammer screw. Any clues for that?

See less See more

Save

1 - 1 of 9 Posts

DK PHILLIPS

· #9 · Feb 18, 2012

many a spring will break from pressure relief.....that would have lasted many years it left captured in my opinion......cleaning in place lube in place.....is a need unless broken in place!
but like your research......
screw drivers cut, hardened, and yes cold blued or quinched blued just to see any give or damage happening from use.....you know to give me heads up to reshaping needs before transferred damage to screw heads.....

simple fourmla: $ 10 screw driver bad fitting..... a few $ 5 screws buggered ......$ 800 gun.....
sale now reduced to $700!

Save

1 - 1 of 9 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month